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# 249347 7-May-2019 09:09
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Recently, we had our door repainted. The painter removed the door but didn't touch the lock or handle mechanism. 

 

Upon rehanging the door, we have an issue where using the handle, doesn't completely open the latch.

 

The lock is an electronic lock, purchased in 2007. The company still exists, but fairly enough that model is no longer sold and parts are no longer available for it. 

 

Given the door wasn't disassembled, I am wondering if it's just a matter of something moving and their service people can just re-align things, or if it's likely something was indeed broken. 

 

 

 

It's $600 + GST for a replacement lock and the door would need touching up too as the new models aren't the same size (smaller). 

 

 

 

Anyone know much about locks?

 

 


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  # 2232139 7-May-2019 09:17
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Maybe it's stuck. Hit it with something?


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  # 2232142 7-May-2019 09:23
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timmmay:

 

Maybe it's stuck. Hit it with something?

 

 

and that's how I broke my last electronic lock :D

 

after that I disassembled it. and the hatch that kept it locked was broken. had to buy new one for $300 + gst installed.

 

Guy who replaced the lock, told me it's not common that springs inside got stuffed and quick disassemble and re-alignment or replacement of springs would help and cost only call-out fee + $5-10 for parts.





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  # 2232241 7-May-2019 12:21
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Can you push it in when you pull the handle? If its just catching on the surround then try some lubricant, CRC/WD40...




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  # 2232243 7-May-2019 12:26
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wellygary:

 

Can you push it in when you pull the handle? If its just catching on the surround then try some lubricant, CRC/WD40...

 

 

I'll check that. Thanks for the tip.

 

 


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  # 2232278 7-May-2019 14:21
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Was the door laid on its side when it was off. Maybe some swarf from the hole boring has moved somewhere stopping the latch fully opening. Does the handle come to a hard stop or does it just stop moving?



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  # 2232281 7-May-2019 14:28
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Bung: Was the door laid on its side when it was off. Maybe some swarf from the hole boring has moved somewhere stopping the latch fully opening. Does the handle come to a hard stop or does it just stop moving?

 

 

 

That's what I think too. I suspect opening it up, blowing everything out with compressed air, lubricating everything and putting back together will fix it.

 

The problem is, that the original supplier is saying that taking it apart may be a one way trip and if that happens we need a new door lock. I'd like to avoid a $600 expense, but seems like it's not something that can be mitigated completely.

 

 

 

I'll check and see but I am pretty sure the door reaches to the end of it's range and just isn't retracting the latch far enough. From memory it doesn't feel like a hard stop (metal against metal for example) feels a little softer than that, so perhaps there is something stopping the remaining motion which may be easily fixed. 

 

 

 

 


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  # 2232296 7-May-2019 15:15
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I have that exact same door lock and have pulled it apart to re lube once before, all the actual mechanics for the deadlock are in the bulk, you shouldn't need to touch that part and from memory it all comes off still attached to the bulk

 

The door handle mechanics are all pretty standard and basic, you'll be fine taking it apart to examine and reassemble

 

make sure there are no kids around and you have some hearing protection on, it alarms pretty loud when you pull it off until you disconnect a single wire.. I dont know the name of the wire connector type but its like the end of a cordless phone battery connector so you might need a little screw driver handy to wedge it out as there isn't much slack in the wire 


 
 
 
 




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  # 2232297 7-May-2019 15:19
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dt:

 

I have that exact same door lock and have pulled it apart to re lube once before, all the actual mechanics for the deadlock are in the bulk, you shouldn't need to touch that part and from memory it all comes off still attached to the bulk

 

The door handle mechanics are all pretty standard and basic, you'll be fine taking it apart to examine and reassemble

 

make sure there are no kids around and you have some hearing protection on, it alarms pretty loud when you pull it off until you disconnect a single wire.. I dont know the name of the wire connector type but its like the end of a cordless phone battery connector so you might need a little screw driver handy to wedge it out as there isn't much slack in the wire 

 

 

Thanks. There is really no chance of doing this myself, as I am not really that handy and getting it wrong could leave us with no front door access till a paid pro gets there which could be a couple of days.

 

Callout is $80 + GST, which if that fixes it, I'd be overjoyed, I love this lock and it meets our needs perfectly. It's looking pretty old now and some of the features of the new ones are pretty cool. 

 

What I am trying to determine is, given there are no spare parts for this, if the fault is likely a faulty part, or a bit of junk in the mechanism if once removed, will resolve the issue completely. 

 

At $600 + GST for the supply and installation of a replacement, I am feeling a bit queasy :) 

 

 




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  # 2232313 7-May-2019 16:20
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@dt by chance would you have taken photos of the internals of the unit? Alternatively, do you know if there are any springs or what not that could have broken or parts that could need replacing in that part of the mechanism? Do you recall how to take the lock apart? If it was super simple and there was no risk to the whole thing falling apart and being able to put back together, then I'd probably be willing to at least open it and see if there is any debris blocking the mechanism?


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  # 2232386 7-May-2019 18:38
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Locksmith here. Latches usually gradually begin to wear a rut where the lever handle connects to it internally. If the lever allows you to lift up on it, does the latch fully retract? If so, your latch is heavily worn and lifting up on the lever would demonstrate that it's not as worn on the part of the latch that interacts with the lever when you lift it, since people don't lift levers often.

You may have also not noticed the problem until they re-hung the door and when they did, the hinges may have been tightened down in a way that pushed the knuckles of the hinges towards the door -- as opposed to the frame -- closing the gap you previously had on the latching side of the door. This would give the latch less space to clear the strike plate that it pockets into when the door is closed.

You can usually replace latches, but only with the same brand of latch that matches that particular model or series.

If you're looking for more support, I'd recommend calling a local Locksmith from your area that you have visited before. Scammers are out there posing as trained security specialists.

Either the latch is worn out or the lock is not tightened

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  # 2232433 7-May-2019 19:54
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wow welcome to geekzone!





Swype on iOS is detrimental to accurate typing. Apologies in advance.


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  # 2232435 7-May-2019 19:58
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Don't use CRC or WD40 or any other wet lubricant on/in a lock as that'll help crud adhere to the inner workings and cause further problems down the track. Use a dry lubricant such as graphite.



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  # 2233074 8-May-2019 15:26
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Cheers. 

 

We have hired someone to come out Friday and try and fix it, and if not, they will replace with the new samsung door locks. Options were relatively limited due to the size of the lock we have, and we didn't really want to repaint the door. I've asked my wife to photograph it for interests sakes. 

 

 


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  # 2233134 8-May-2019 16:30
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Is your door actually receiving power from the mains?





Swype on iOS is detrimental to accurate typing. Apologies in advance.




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  # 2233136 8-May-2019 16:39
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Batman:

 

Is your door actually receiving power from the mains?

 

 

No, why? All Smart locks are battery powered.

 

 


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