I'm going to remove a hard-wired smoke alarm in my house, just wanting to know what best approach is to deal with the leftover wiring in my ceiling space. What should I be doing to the end of the wiring?
![]() ![]() |
Any view on what voltage is on the alarm, where its powered from or others using this power. There are several ways to terminate/insulate the ends. But we need more info. Will the wire still have power post removal?
Terminate in a small junction box.
Gordy
My first ever network connection was a 1MHz AM crystal(OA91) radio receiver.
Just disconnect the other end to insure no power on it. Pull the cable out if you feel like, but if it's just a completely dead cable, no issues.
sqishy:
Any view on what voltage is on the alarm, where its powered from or others using this power. There are several ways to terminate/insulate the ends. But we need more info. Will the wire still have power post removal?
Sorry took a while to respond to this one, yes it will still have power. I tried tracing the power cable in the hope of disconnecting at the other end, but its in the ceiling of the upper floor of a two storey house and leads to a hole with other cables which then run down to the bottom floor inside the walls, so I lose track of which wire it is.
Smoke alarm is 240V, https://www.psaproducts.com.au/products/ionisation-with-9v-battery-backup-lif5000-aspx/
Answering the title of this thread - the safe way is to use an electrician.
Sorry, dumb question but why are you removing the smoke alarm? How about installing a new wired smoke alarm? Then you will have safe wiring and new smoke alarm.
Otherwise, your power supply to the smoke detector could be from a lighting circuit on the loop between the switches. You could find this out by turning off circuit breakers until you find the circuit it's fed off. But obviously, you need to know what you're doing to test safely. If in doubt get an electrician in.
Kickinbac:
Sorry, dumb question but why are you removing the smoke alarm? How about installing a new wired smoke alarm? Then you will have safe wiring and new smoke alarm.
Otherwise, your power supply to the smoke detector could be from a lighting circuit on the loop between the switches. You could find this out by turning off circuit breakers until you find the circuit it's fed off. But obviously, you need to know what you're doing to test safely. If in doubt get an electrician in.
It was an older ionisation smoke alarm with battery backup, the battery needed replacing but the smoke alarm was misplaced while it was waiting for the replacement battery to be installed. It was mounted with a base that is hard-wired.
Given it's location it appears to be recommended to install photoelectric smoke alarms instead, and I already have a couple of spare long-life battery photoelectric units from when I installed them throughout the rest of the house, so rather than buy another hard-wired photoelectric unit I'd rather just install one of the devices I already have on hand.
The intention was to then use that spot in the ceiling to install a Wireless AP (its in our hallway, and right where I want another AP).
D.W:Kickinbac:Sorry, dumb question but why are you removing the smoke alarm? How about installing a new wired smoke alarm? Then you will have safe wiring and new smoke alarm.
Otherwise, your power supply to the smoke detector could be from a lighting circuit on the loop between the switches. You could find this out by turning off circuit breakers until you find the circuit it's fed off. But obviously, you need to know what you're doing to test safely. If in doubt get an electrician in.
It was an older ionisation smoke alarm with battery backup, the battery needed replacing but the smoke alarm was misplaced while it was waiting for the replacement battery to be installed. It was mounted with a base that is hard-wired.
Given it's location it appears to be recommended to install photoelectric smoke alarms instead, and I already have a couple of spare long-life battery photoelectric units from when I installed them throughout the rest of the house, so rather than buy another hard-wired photoelectric unit I'd rather just install one of the devices I already have on hand.
The intention was to then use that spot in the ceiling to install a Wireless AP (its in our hallway, and right where I want another AP).
Can terminate in ceiling with this until you decide what to do:
https://www.tradedepot.co.nz/tdx-junction-box-small
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/deta-junction-box_p00310361
I have used these before from Bunnings: DETA Screw Connector 40amp - 8 Pack
iMac 27" [14.2] (late 2013), Airport Time Capsule 5th gen, iPhone13 x 2, iPad6, iPad Mini5, Spark Smart Modem 1st Gen
Panasonic TV Viera TH-L50E6Z (1080p), Panasonic Blu-ray PVR DMR-BWT835, Yamaha AVR RX-V1085 [6.1 Surround Speaker System], Apple TV 4k 64Gb (2nd gen)
Kia Sportage EX (2019), Mazda Demio (2001)
The difficult we can do immediately. The impossible takes a bit longer. But Miracles you will have to wait for.
larknz: Don't install a plug socket unless you know the cable is the correct size and is not connected to a lighting circuit. If you want to repurpose the cable you need to know wire size and where it is connected.
PhantomNVD:larknz: Don't install a plug socket unless you know the cable is the correct size and is not connected to a lighting circuit. If you want to repurpose the cable you need to know wire size and where it is connected.
And that’s exactly why you need an electrician for this job too.
DIY work on 240v is strictly like for like swapping and old fuse wire replacement by law, and for good reason)
![]() ![]() |