Automatic pantry lights

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Loismustdye

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#259872 27-Oct-2019 18:59

Currently have a set of three LED bars from Bunnings that light up when opening the pantry up, one has a movement sensor and sends a signal to the other two lights to switch on when it detects movement.
However, they run on AA batteries (2 each for a total of 6) and we are on our third set after 7 months. I’m guessing sendingreceiving a wireless signal may be chewing through the juice.
Is there another option that uses mains power that people are aware of? Ideally something I can bung up on the pantry ceiling. Or will I need a sparky to source and install something?
There is a power point in the back of the pantry that could be used for this.
Any knowledge or information gratefully accepted

Oblivian

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#2344184 27-Oct-2019 19:32

Ours has the other way. Instead of the light being a sensor, the switch is. With a 3-way manual override if you want to keep it off/on/auto

https://www.pdl.co.nz/Home-Owner/Products/Products/Safety/Motion-Sensors

richms

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#2344185 27-Oct-2019 19:34

Get some 12v LED tape, and a 12v motion sensor and a 12v wallwart and job done.

Richard rich.ms

SirHumphreyAppleby

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#2344186 27-Oct-2019 19:37

richms:

Get some 12v LED tape, and a 12v motion sensor and a 12v wallwart and job done.

That'll work. I have a 12V power supply in the garage which connects to a 12V LED strip via a microswitch, and is switched by a 3D printed piece glued to the door track. If you don't have a 3D printer, a piece of bent metal or strategic placing of the switch will work just as well.

Fred99

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#2344359 28-Oct-2019 11:13

I used reed switches with NC/NO contacts and magnets. (Normal reed switches are NO - you need to have NC contacts so the strip lights go on when the magnet is moved away from the reed switch as the door opens. Used plastic encapsulated switches/magnets with screw terminals and screw holes for mounting, wall-wart for power. Upside - easy to set up and reliable, downside vs motion sensor - the lights stay on if you don't close the door (but the LEDs only draw a few watts).

richms

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#2344384 28-Oct-2019 12:56

Most reed switches are only rated for signalling currents and will end up welding over time switching even small amounts of DC to a load. So you have to add a relay board.

Richard rich.ms

Fred99

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#2344409 28-Oct-2019 13:51

richms:

Most reed switches are only rated for signalling currents and will end up welding over time switching even small amounts of DC to a load. So you have to add a relay board.

Yes - the ones I use are rated at 0.5 amp, the strips draw 5w/m, they're only about 500mm long, so well under the rated load (under which they're supposed to last some number of thousands of cycles). They've been in place for years, working fine. But yeah - if you wanted very bright lights, then another method. A couple of watts of LED strip seems to be plenty for under-bench cupboards - though to be fair, the cupboards have white laminate surfaces.