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3679 posts

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#268480 21-Mar-2020 16:09
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Im the 2nd owner of a  modest size (180sqm) but high end materials property (currently using as my PPOR). Just come out of its Master Build 10yr warranty, although the Kitchen is new  and cost $90k as is the Carpet, so have warranties there.

One issue Im having is closing the slider door locks, its the type where the middle metal piece hits the end which allows the lock arm on the handle and the 2 locking jaws to come down over the metal section in the door frame.

Ive noticed its out by a good 0.5mm. Im not sure if its the front roller or the rear, but I dont want to touch anything until Im sure. I can see the plastic 2 plugs on the bottom inside each section of glass framing (2 rolling frames per door). 

It is double glazed so its fairly weighty.

The house was Designed and project managed by an Architect so Im trying to go through his PM notes to see what brand they are. Im wondering if they would have it on file if rang making the job of figuring out which plug to put a screw driver through or if it is another  tool, the very back one I can see is a screw, but I want to get this right.

The slide fine, they are just not locking with ease. Appreciate any tips.


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  #2443137 21-Mar-2020 16:19
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Those plastic plugs at the bottom of each side of the door will reveal access to a screw. 

 

Be careful not to strip this screw head.  pop in a torch to see what it is (flat head or phillips). 

 

If you tighten, it will raise. If you loosen, it will drop. 

 

Is the door height the issue or is your issue sideways movement? If thats the case then perhaps the lock mech needs tightening. 

 

 

 

Have you googled the assa abloy range to see what lock mech could have been used?

 

 

 

 




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  #2443164 21-Mar-2020 16:48
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Goosey:

 

Be careful not to strip this screw head.  pop in a torch to see what it is (flat head or phillips). 

 

If you tighten, it will raise. If you loosen, it will drop. 

 

Is the door height the issue or is your issue sideways movement? If thats the case then perhaps the lock mech needs tightening. 

 

 

Definitely door height. I have a gap of about 2-3mm at the top vs when the bottom is in line with frame.

If we are facing the door, the left side I cannot see easily if Phillips so will get torch out. The Right side (or rear) is plane as day Phillips. 

Im not sure if I should be raising the back (right) or lowering the front (left) to remove the gap to make the doors flush to the door frame?

 

REALLY appreciate your help.

It is just a universal anti lift hook type, its not black as per this but this is the model for sure.

https://www.assaabloyopeningsolutions.nz/en/products/sliding-door-locks-and-hardware/sliding-door-lock/


 
 
 
 


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  #2443178 21-Mar-2020 17:12
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Great.
Both sides will have the same screw type.
Do you actually have a suitable screw driver?

To find out if you need to raise or lower the side with the lock on it.... perhaps dab something on that bit you say isn’t lining up properly and then y’all see where it’s leaving a mark.
Or... when you need to lock it... are you pulling it up to make it close????

Try raising the lock side. I’d suggest half a turn.
You will need to push hard into the screw while turning else you will strip it.

If all else fails.... ‘exceed’ should be able to help. (Or a lock Smith).


Just checking you are looking at the right screws at the bottom of the door.
If looking at the door you cannot see it ? It will be on the sides only...



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  #2443199 21-Mar-2020 17:19
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Goosey: Great.
Both sides will have the same screw type.
Do you actually have a suitable screw driver?


NO agggh, turns out they are quad nuts (forget tech name, ones with a square in middle of screw), which I have on my electric driver but I dont think it wll fit all the way in. So I have no way of telling which size bolt/screw it is ......

On the lock side the bolt is now further up than what the hole is, Im not sure even if i had right driver if it work on the angle...?




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  #2443204 21-Mar-2020 17:26
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Like these https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/mako-square-screwdriver-set-3-piece/R2541051.html?gclsrc=aw.ds&&ds_rl=1268368&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqruF5Nyq6AIVCx4rCh1mFQwgEAYYASABEgJ7V_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I should be able to measure with my power driver square head bit to get the right size, then just buy a set of square heads....




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  #2443249 21-Mar-2020 17:31
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Centra suggests its a #2 Robertson, but perhaps I should have sizes either side just in case.

https://www.centrawindows.com/video/how-adjust-your-patio-door

 

 




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  #2443265 21-Mar-2020 17:52
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Goosey: Great.
Both sides will have the same screw type.
Do you actually have a suitable screw driver?


NO, once again you are right. The top is a robertson square. I "think" the bottom is a flat head, but even with my led lenser torch running along the gunnel, I cannot see far enough in too be sure what screw it is. I know its not phillips.


 
 
 
 


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  #2443299 21-Mar-2020 18:47
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One thing I have found when adjusting our sliding doors is to take the weight off the wheels when adjusting the height upwards. Get someone to grab the door and lift it slightly while you turn the screw. Makes it much easier to turn the screw. 

 

Make very small adjustments each time. Open and close the door a few times after each adjustment to allow the door to settle.

 

Put a mark on the door and frame before starting so that you can see what height changes you have made. If it all turns to custard you can go back to where you started from. I call this a CYA mark.

 

 


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  #2443319 21-Mar-2020 19:06
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Using electric drivers isn’t ideal unless you go really super slow and not hard on the torque.

Not sure what you mean by the top screws being different to the bottom screws.

At the bottom of the door there should only be one screw. I wouldn’t be bothering with the top
Adjustments.... start with the bottom as that’s where the weight is and probs where the issue has started.




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  #2443917 22-Mar-2020 16:51
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Goosey:
At the bottom of the door there should only be one screw. I wouldn’t be bothering with the top
Adjustments.... start with the bottom as that’s where the weight is and probs where the issue has started.

 

Yep, sorry misleading, there is a screw with a cap that holds the bearing to the frame, then about 5cm in, through both pieces of aluminium glass frame is the screw to adjust. I could not for the life of me see through those 2 holes and a bit more what type of screw it is. But I tried both a phillips and a flat head, no go.

So I looked up Centras guide and its said Robertson (square) #2 driver. Sure enough all the screws holding the bearings on and around the house are Robertson type. Makes me wonder why glaziers prefer these....?

Anyway, I got my Ryobi driver kit out, and only the smallest one fits. But its labelled S1. I presume Square 1. But thats not a measurement it just means the number in the Ryobi kit.

What would be best bet, take a gamble on a cheap robertson hand driver kit around the #2 size? If its not phillips or flat head it doesnt leave much......

 

 




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  #2443919 22-Mar-2020 16:56
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k1w1k1d:

 

One thing I have found when adjusting our sliding doors is to take the weight off the wheels when adjusting the height upwards. Get someone to grab the door and lift it slightly while you turn the screw. Makes it much easier to turn the screw. 

 

Make very small adjustments each time. Open and close the door a few times after each adjustment to allow the door to settle.

 

Put a mark on the door and frame before starting so that you can see what height changes you have made. If it all turns to custard you can go back to where you started from. I call this a CYA mark

 



Yes indeedy all good advice. Or if like me, alone at the mo, I have a rubber door stop. I had to lift and slide the door onto it.

However in my case i need to go down on the left according to centra. There guide is pretty good to be honest, i think they even said to have some one lift the door. My doors are pretty flappn heavy though, I cannot see someone of petite feminine build lifting let alone holding the door for long (no offense). Not sure if its the ally or the double glazing.

Just need to figure out the size of this ryobi bit. Just take with me and ask mitre 10 or bunnings or just measure it, I dont have my calipers anymore grrrrr


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  #2443932 22-Mar-2020 17:10
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If all else fails on the DIY front, I can thoroughly recommend these guys:

 

https://www.exceed.co.nz/

 

Have dealt with them a few times and every time I have been impressed and satisfied with their service and their pricing. 

 


I am not affiliated with them in any way, etc.





Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.




3679 posts

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  #2443955 22-Mar-2020 17:18
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A good guide to bits and fasteners and why some are used for different reasons ie torque out

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/repair-center/article/3238/Screwdriver_Bit_Buying_Guide.html

 

 




3679 posts

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  #2443957 22-Mar-2020 17:20
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eracode:

 

If all else fails on the DIY front, I can thoroughly recommend these guys:

 

https://www.exceed.co.nz/

 

 

Yes have heard good things. Im going to ring the people who did the glazing in the morning to find out for sure the size. Also the little stick on bits that sit on bottom of the window so when you pull it tight it makes the house air tight have come off a lot windows.


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  #2443962 22-Mar-2020 17:39
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TeaLeaf:

Yep, sorry misleading, there is a screw with a cap that holds the bearing to the frame, then about 5cm in, through both pieces of aluminium glass frame is the screw to adjust. I could not for the life of me see through those 2 holes and a bit more what type of screw it is. But I tried both a phillips and a flat head, no go.

So I looked up Centras guide and its said Robertson (square) #2 driver. Sure enough all the screws holding the bearings on and around the house are Robertson type. Makes me wonder why glaziers prefer these....?

Anyway, I got my Ryobi driver kit out, and only the smallest one fits. But its labelled S1. I presume Square 1. But thats not a measurement it just means the number in the Ryobi kit.

What would be best bet, take a gamble on a cheap robertson hand driver kit around the #2 size? If its not phillips or flat head it doesnt leave much......


 



Centra Windows are a Canadian company, Robertson screws are a Canadian invention. How many square drive bits are in your Ryobi kit? There are 5 sizes in the Robertson range #00, #0, #1,#2 & #3. Most kits might have 1,2 &3 and I've only ever needed the #2.

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