Just noticed Deta tint/power remote controlled LED downlights listed on Bunnings Oz, so may be coming here:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-grid-connect-smart-10w-led-downlight_p0102573
Any thoughts on this brand?
Just noticed Deta tint/power remote controlled LED downlights listed on Bunnings Oz, so may be coming here:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-grid-connect-smart-10w-led-downlight_p0102573
Any thoughts on this brand?
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I've put up deta branded items in bunnings stores and I have to say I wouldn't fit out a house full of their downlights going by that experience. You'll be having to get them replaced under warranty several times and then you'll probably end up with out of warranty fittings you have to replace yourself, and, if you're doing things legally, paying an electrician each time (including when it's under warranty as bunnings won't pay for labour). The labour might be OK if you get an electrician to put sockets on the wiring so you can replace the fittings yourself, but it might make it difficult if you have to change brands
Thanks. The initial install would include a 3-pin socket (pretty common these days, a great development in saving sparky bills) so any returns would be just a hassle, not a financial problem.
obviously you'll want to specify it to your electrician to install the socket as it isn't actually all that common. I don't do it normally. Usually we'd remove the existing plug and lead and hard wire each light (people dont usually want to cover the cost of a socket when they've paid nothing for the downlight)
snnet:I've put up deta branded items in bunnings stores and I have to say I wouldn't fit out a house full of their downlights going by that experience. You'll be having to get them replaced under warranty several times and then you'll probably end up with out of warranty fittings you have to replace yourself, and, if you're doing things legally, paying an electrician each time (including when it's under warranty as bunnings won't pay for labour). The labour might be OK if you get an electrician to put sockets on the wiring so you can replace the fittings yourself, but it might make it difficult if you have to change brands
snnet:
obviously you'll want to specify it to your electrician to install the socket as it isn't actually all that common. I don't do it normally. Usually we'd remove the existing plug and lead and hard wire each light (people dont usually want to cover the cost of a socket when they've paid nothing for the downlight)
Surface sockets are so cheap (< $3) it'd be mad not to use them.
Tracer:
snnet:
obviously you'll want to specify it to your electrician to install the socket as it isn't actually all that common. I don't do it normally. Usually we'd remove the existing plug and lead and hard wire each light (people dont usually want to cover the cost of a socket when they've paid nothing for the downlight)
Surface sockets are so cheap (< $3) it'd be mad not to use them.
Also the terminals in the drivers are generally total crap, and cant take 2 pieces of 1.5mm, and have nowhere to join the earths. Warranty is gone if you modify them and taking the cable off is exactly that so unless you keep them all there to put back on to return them (not that useful on a $10 downlight)
Low returns is probably why they dont know about the failure rates on the lights since its not worth the time to take them back.
Tracer:Surface sockets are so cheap (< $3) it'd be mad not to use them.
I am sure I have seen someone say (pretty sure it was here in gz) that the laws say if you are fitting sockets for your lighting you need to get the circuits hooked up to an RCD (Residual Current) circuit. So that's an electrician job.
So if you are building a new house its a no brainer to get sockets installed - but for an existing house upgrade it will cause you quite a cost blow up.
You are legally allowed to replace your own light fittings though.
If I am wrong about the RCD circuit I am sure someone will point it out!
Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler
Never know if its an idoitic law, misinterpretation of a law, or just a sparky druming up more work when they say things like that. Friend had some swapped over 6 months ago - no RCD, sockets put in and new lights plugged into them. Was going to be a fortune to put RCD in when they did their kitchen because old board and would either be a surface box beside it or a complete board replacement so they just used the circuits that they had.
richms:
Never know if its an idoitic law, misinterpretation of a law, or just a sparky drumming up more work when they say things like that. Friend had some swapped over 6 months ago - no RCD, sockets put in and new lights plugged into them. Was going to be a fortune to put RCD in when they did their kitchen because old board and would either be a surface box beside it or a complete board replacement so they just used the circuits that they had.
The ideal type of power outlets would be these Surface sockets $2.90 + gst - That site has said out of stock for a while - but maybe you can get them somewhere else.
Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler
Do these surface sockets need to be attached to ceiling framing or can they lay on top of pink batts etc.
so at a later date you can just remove the light and pull through the socket and easily change lights without going up into the ceiling.
also pbi-electrical on trade me are selling surface sockets ((10 for $29 + freight) different type from link above)
If you replace a light fitting, un wire old, wire in replacement then no RCD required, if you unwire the old light and connect a NEW socket then it MUST be protected by an RCD, no and, if's or but's. it is not drumming up more work it is simply following legislation.
Oh, stay away from Deta, it is the bottom end brand, if you want something to last spend a bit more and buy a good brand.
Such as . . .?
OwenWatson:
Such as . . .?
you will need to clarify what your "such as" refers to
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