Soundproofing - Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV)

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mulac

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#274489 25-Aug-2020 12:19

Long time reader but one of my first posts of many to come as I embark on a larger renovation project.

Looking at soundproofing options between the living room and the master bedroom. The TV is going to be on the opposite side of the wall as the bed is up against, so really wanting to get this right.

I'm thinking of running 13mm Noiseline and potentially putting it on top of GIB Rondo on one side with the acoustic clips, of course with acoustic insulation too. I have seen a few mentions overseas of people putting a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl beneath the wallboard, does anybody have any experience with this? And if so, any ideas where in Wellington I could source some from to cover a larger area (~15sqm)? Found this post but it's locked.

Looking for ways you think I could float the TV or some speakers so sound won't transfer through the studs too. The best way I can think of currently is to ceiling mount some speakers and just keep the TV audio disabled during the evenings/mornings.

Thanks for your help - you have all already been a lot more helpful than you know through previous posts!

mdf

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#2549422 25-Aug-2020 13:11

If you're rebuilding anyway, one way of really good sound proofing is to rebuild the dividing wall with offset studs on either side then winding bats between them. The studs of one wall then don't have any direct contact with the gib of the other wall. Does mean a thicker wall and twice as much timber though.

kobiak

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#2549437 25-Aug-2020 13:49

even having pink insulation, get the thickest you can fit in the wall between lounge and bedroom - would have massive impact on the noise.

We created attic living space back in the day with thickest insulation between the iron roof + gip = million times quieter during the day and you can't hear pretty much any noise from the outside. That was 3 walls and ceiling insulation.

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neb

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#2549513 25-Aug-2020 15:09

Depending on how much space you have, you can also rearrange the room layout to maximise sound insulation/isolation. For the Casa de Cowboy rebuild we're putting a deep wardrobe up against the living room wall, so alongside the Noiseline and batts there's an additional thin "room" between the bedroom and the living room filled with sound-damping material.

elpenguino

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#2549538 25-Aug-2020 15:26

mdf:

If you're rebuilding anyway, one way of really good sound proofing is to rebuild the dividing wall with offset studs on either side then winding bats between them. The studs of one wall then don't have any direct contact with the gib of the other wall. Does mean a thicker wall and twice as much timber though.

That's effectively what the rondo battens would do but you can do it this way with standard materials.

You may have to replace the existing wall's bracing with a shallower bracing method so you can get the studs of one wall inbetween the other's. You may not have to use full depth studs either, since you already have studs to hold the ceiling/roof up. Consult your builder.

Physically decoupling in this or some other way will prevent much of the sound energy transferring from one room to the other. You also need to pay attention to sealing off all air connections between the rooms which means looking out for leakage via things like power points and so on.

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

mulac

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#2549641 25-Aug-2020 19:27

Ah yeah awesome thats a great idea with the offset. Dont really want to take up too much space but it could be well worth it for saving on noise.

Any real requirements on the depth of the offset? I guess the dwangs/braces will be the defining factor, but couldnpotentially run them on their side so offset of 60mm or so (to ensure a 15mm gap between stud and dwang)

I'll speak to the builder about it anyway!

Still would like to hear about MLV if anybody knows of it!

neb

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#2549646 25-Aug-2020 19:48

For MLV not for in-house uses, it's typically glued to metal panels and similar to dampen vibrations. I've used it on PC cases and it helps a little, it doesn't block any sound but stops the metal case from acting as a speaker diaphragm for fan vibrations from the case. It's also used to dampen vibrations in car panels. I have my doubts about how well it'd work with gib or similar, and it's going to cost a fortune, particularly compared to double gibbing. If you won't want to pay for Noiseline you can also use wet areas gib which has more mass than standard gib.

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#2549733 26-Aug-2020 09:01

Double gib (stagger joints/ have first layer vertical, second layer horizontal, or cut the sheets so joints don't line up) the answer. And use a 'system' - not just about gib, or having staggered studs etc. Sound seal around the perimeter, no back to back powerpoints/switches etc in the wall.

I think aqualine is more expensive than braceline (which is what noiseline is. It's a dual product)

D1023319

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#2551268 28-Aug-2020 13:17

I am having a Rondo sound solution installed in my rental between two units - but cant yet comment on its effectiveness

https://www.rondo.com.au/products/walls/quiet-stud-acoustic-wall-system/

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/gib-rondo-sound-batten-clip_p0322616

mdooher

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#2551282 28-Aug-2020 13:50

Rabbitcat:

Double gib (stagger joints/ have first layer vertical, second layer horizontal, or cut the sheets so joints don't line up) the answer. And use a 'system' - not just about gib, or having staggered studs etc. Sound seal around the perimeter, no back to back powerpoints/switches etc in the wall.

I think aqualine is more expensive than braceline (which is what noiseline is. It's a dual product)

and I would add make the two layers of different densities and thickness. eg 1 layer of 10mm noiseline/braceline and one of 13mm standard

Matthew

mulac

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#2552879 31-Aug-2020 09:55

Re. Rondo - I did mention that in the original post. This would help retain a fair bit of area in the room, rather than adding an additional wall. Let me know how it goes!