Wine Barrel Vegetable Planters

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Wine Barrel Vegetable Planters

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#281324 11-Feb-2021 09:10

I'm looking at making some vegetable planters out of wine barrels. Am thinking of using a half barrel upside down as a base, with another half barrel attached on top for the planting (so will kind of look like an hourglass). This will put the soil level at about waist height.

I haven't seen this done elsewhere, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. If figured some stainless steel coach bolts to fix them together and add drainage holes. Any reason why this wouldn't work?

I'm thinking of burning and brushing the exterior of the barrels, but what I'm not sure of is the best way to prevent the barrel rings from rusting? Does something like CRC Bright Zinc Rust Protection have a "bare metal" appearance - or does it look painted on? Since I'm hoping to burn the exterior I'd rather not use black coloured rust protection as I'd prefer a contrast with the rings.

Any thoughts, feedback, or suggestion appreciated.

Home: Work:
Home Work

linw

2893 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 1205

#2654537 11-Feb-2021 11:29

Sounds OK but be aware the wood will rot over time. Several years in my case.

Senecio

2853 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 3162

ID Verified

Lifetime subscriber

#2654591 11-Feb-2021 12:24

I think you would need more than coach bolts to secure the two halves. Some sort of bracing would probably be require to prevent the top half from rocking on the bottom half.

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#2654593 11-Feb-2021 12:44

Senecio: I think you would need more than coach bolts to secure the two halves. Some sort of bracing would probably be require to prevent the top half from rocking on the bottom half.

Why would the top half rock on the bottom half?

BlueShift

1692 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 969

#2654670 11-Feb-2021 14:37

Paul1977:

Senecio: I think you would need more than coach bolts to secure the two halves. Some sort of bracing would probably be require to prevent the top half from rocking on the bottom half.

Why would the top half rock on the bottom half?

Cos its not two flat surfaces - the barrel staves rise above the base, so you have two wooden rings balancing on each other. Possibly a few hunks of 4x2 between the barrels with the bolts passing through them.

Senecio

2853 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 3162

ID Verified

Lifetime subscriber

#2654680 11-Feb-2021 15:16

BlueShift:

Paul1977:

Why would the top half rock on the bottom half?

Cos its not two flat surfaces - the barrel staves rise above the base, so you have two wooden rings balancing on each other. Possibly a few hunks of 4x2 between the barrels with the bolts passing through them.

^^This. I can't draw a picture but you have two curved surfaces coming together. You will need something to stabilise them, the 4x2 suggestion above will work.

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#2655020 12-Feb-2021 09:03

I had thought if I lined it up right it might be able to be done without any packers, but looking again (since the staves taper to a point) I think you're correct.

So I'm thinking something like the below, which I think is what @BlueShift was suggesting:

Geekzone

Want to support Geekzone and browse the site without the ads? Subscribe to Geekzone now (monthly, annual and lifetime options).

Fred99

13684 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 10018

#2655036 12-Feb-2021 09:45

Maybe Metalex Green (copper naphthenate) could be painted on the inside to slow down how quickly they rot. There's a Metalex Clear (zinc napthenate), but unfortunately it's not as effective as the staining green product. Neither are as effective as timber treatments like CCA, but better then nothing.

I think the rings are usually galvanised, but probably thin electro-galvanised rather than hot dip, but you could use an etch primer and paint them, they'll probably outlast the oak staves anyway.

BlueOwl

87 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 69

Lifetime subscriber

#2655037 12-Feb-2021 09:47

I did something similar late last year, half barrels from Bunnings and just sat them on the ground.

Some tips:

- drill 4-6 32mm holes in the bottom for drainage

- get a bag of scoria (about gap 25) and put into the bottom of each barrel for drainage - otherwise the dirt will block the holes and you'll have a muddy pond over winter

- don't worry about treating the wood or steel rings - both look better with age, and you can't treat the inside of the rings anyway. Both will last for about 10 years.

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#2655040 12-Feb-2021 10:00

Fred99:

Maybe Metalex Green (copper naphthenate) could be painted on the inside to slow down how quickly they rot. There's a Metalex Clear (zinc napthenate), but unfortunately it's not as effective as the staining green product. Neither are as effective as timber treatments like CCA, but better then nothing.

I think the rings are usually galvanised, but probably thin electro-galvanised rather than hot dip, but you could use an etch primer and paint them, they'll probably outlast the oak staves anyway.

Since they'll be for vegetables I don't really want to use any treatments like that, especially on the inside.

I'm not even sure what (if anything) to use on the outside after I've burnt and brushed them. Tung oil would be best as nice and natural, but crazy expensive (I'm doing 8 of these planters) so I'm thinking I might not bother with oil and just live with the fact they might not last quite as long.

Burning the wood adds rot resistance, but I'm not sure about burning and brushing the inside, would that be carcinogenic?

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#2655043 12-Feb-2021 10:06

BlueOwl:

I did something similar late last year, half barrels from Bunnings and just sat them on the ground.

Some tips:

- drill 4-6 32mm holes in the bottom for drainage

- get a bag of scoria (about gap 25) and put into the bottom of each barrel for drainage - otherwise the dirt will block the holes and you'll have a muddy pond over winter

- don't worry about treating the wood or steel rings - both look better with age, and you can't treat the inside of the rings anyway. Both will last for about 10 years.

Thanks for that.

I'll still burn and brush the outside because I just like the look, and only costs a little Map-Pro gas and time. I'll have a think about whether it's worth doing anything to the rings - if I do it will be something easy and cheap, just to stop the outside of the rings from visibly rusting too much (as you say, can't do anything about the insides of the rings).

BlueOwl

87 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 69

Lifetime subscriber

#2655089 12-Feb-2021 10:13

Paul1977:

Fred99:

Maybe Metalex Green (copper naphthenate) could be painted on the inside to slow down how quickly they rot. There's a Metalex Clear (zinc napthenate), but unfortunately it's not as effective as the staining green product. Neither are as effective as timber treatments like CCA, but better then nothing.

I think the rings are usually galvanised, but probably thin electro-galvanised rather than hot dip, but you could use an etch primer and paint them, they'll probably outlast the oak staves anyway.

Since they'll be for vegetables I don't really want to use any treatments like that, especially on the inside.

I'm not even sure what (if anything) to use on the outside after I've burnt and brushed them. Tung oil would be best as nice and natural, but crazy expensive (I'm doing 8 of these planters) so I'm thinking I might not bother with oil and just live with the fact they might not last quite as long.

Burning the wood adds rot resistance, but I'm not sure about burning and brushing the inside, would that be carcinogenic?

Just some trivia ...

Wine barrels are usually slightly burnt on the inside anyway - that's what coopers do then they make them and get them ready to mature wine in. Burnt oak has a distinctive aroma - much like vanilla or buttered toast, and this is transferred to the wine as it ages in the barrel. If you've had a good barrel-fermented Chardonnay you'd notice it. After the wine is oaked and bottled, they lightly scrape the inside of the barrel and toast it again ready for the next batch - and so on for a number of years before the barrel either starts leaking for just has no aroma left to it.

So the inside of the barrel will be fairly rot-proof and food safe, as long as nobody has put anything else in it.

Dyson

Shop now for Dyson appliances (affiliate link).

Paul1977

5171 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2192

#2655114 12-Feb-2021 10:43

BlueOwl:

Just some trivia ...

Wine barrels are usually slightly burnt on the inside anyway - that's what coopers do then they make them and get them ready to mature wine in. Burnt oak has a distinctive aroma - much like vanilla or buttered toast, and this is transferred to the wine as it ages in the barrel. If you've had a good barrel-fermented Chardonnay you'd notice it. After the wine is oaked and bottled, they lightly scrape the inside of the barrel and toast it again ready for the next batch - and so on for a number of years before the barrel either starts leaking for just has no aroma left to it.

So the inside of the barrel will be fairly rot-proof and food safe, as long as nobody has put anything else in it.

Thanks. I knew they "toasted" the inside, but I didn't know if it offered any rot resistance without being fully burned. Where I'm getting the barrels has assured me they are straight from the vineyard and have had nothing but wine in them.