Square plaining two panels to butt edge join

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openmedia

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#286027 31-May-2021 16:42

I want to make a headboard out of two of these panels

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/specrite-1800-x-405-x-18mm-golden-oiled-acacia-teak-panel_p8330185

The edges aren't square so I need a way to square plane them down. Any recommendations on tools required?

I'll build a frame behind the panel to help maintain the shape, but the plan was to butt-edge glue the panels together with something behind to support them.

Generally known online as OpenMedia, now working for Red Hat APAC as a Technology Evangelist and Portfolio Architect. Still playing with MythTV and digital media on the side.

sheldonlendrum

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#2716263 31-May-2021 17:10

Do you have a plunge router?

Or on your way home from Bunnings stop at a joiner and ask them to cut and biscuit join?

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Bung

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#2716264 31-May-2021 17:16

What tools do you have?

The two edges don't necessarily have to be exactly square if they have any errors cancelling. If you can cut the nosing off so that any error / or \ (shown exagerated) is matched by cutting the other side flipped over so that it matches // or \\.

neb

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#2716267 31-May-2021 17:32

You can also take it out to the trade section and ask them to slice the edge off with the giant drop saw they have there, although for a precise cut you'd really want to use a table saw... then to join them get some 8 or 10mm dowels and metal dowel pins (dowel-size shank on one side, sharp point on the other), drill holes in one of the two panels, push in the pins, push the two panels together, and then drill holes in the other panel where the indentations from the dowel pins are. This is cheaper than, and works better than, a jig, which always puts the dowels about half a mm out no matter how careful you are.

cshwone

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#2716381 31-May-2021 20:11

neb: You can also take it out to the trade section and ask them to slice the edge off with the giant drop saw they have there, although for a precise cut you'd really want to use a table saw... then to join them get some 8 or 10mm dowels and metal dowel pins (dowel-size shank on one side, sharp point on the other), drill holes in one of the two panels, push in the pins, push the two panels together, and then drill holes in the other panel where the indentations from the dowel pins are. This is cheaper than, and works better than, a jig, which always puts the dowels about half a mm out no matter how careful you are.

It can still be a bit hit and miss without a jig as you have to get the dowel exactly square. Biscuits can be far more forgiving.

As an aside these panels from Bunnings are great value and extremely versatile. Made all sorts of stuff from them, tables, shelves, bookcases, entertainment unit and even a fire surround.

A good table saw and mitre makes it very easy

neb

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#2716388 31-May-2021 20:23

Yeah, you'd want to use something to drill the holes straight, I was thinking more of getting them in the same place on the two panels which is relatively easy with a dowel pin and brad-point drill. I've never been happy with jigs because they have to be loose enough to not bind the drill but then there's also enough wiggle room to get the hole at an angle or in the wrong location, so I use an L-block to line it up which works reasonably well.

You're right, they do seem remarkably cheap for what you're getting... it's definitely solid, not veneer?

mdf

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#2716405 31-May-2021 21:39

Out of square which way, and by how much? A jointer is likely the best tool for the job, though you could also do it with a table saw or track saw. But those are all pretty expensive for a one-off job.

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openmedia

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#2716425 31-May-2021 23:48

The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

Generally known online as OpenMedia, now working for Red Hat APAC as a Technology Evangelist and Portfolio Architect. Still playing with MythTV and digital media on the side.

cshwone

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#2716429 1-Jun-2021 05:07

neb: Yeah, you'd want to use something to drill the holes straight, I was thinking more of getting them in the same place on the two panels which is relatively easy with a dowel pin and brad-point drill. I've never been happy with jigs because they have to be loose enough to not bind the drill but then there's also enough wiggle room to get the hole at an angle or in the wrong location, so I use an L-block to line it up which works reasonably well. You're right, they do seem remarkably cheap for what you're getting... it's definitely solid, not veneer?

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/interbuild-2200-x-610-x-26mm-oiled-karri-laminated-panel_p8330042

These are the ones I have been using and solid wood. They also do an 18mm x 1200 panel of the same stuff which is also great for shelves within the thicker carcass

neb

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#2716430 1-Jun-2021 05:09

cshwone:
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/interbuild-2200-x-610-x-26mm-oiled-karri-laminated-panel_p8330042

Karri? Is that like a Voltswagen?

(To pre-empt the inevitable replies: Yes, I know, but it could be misread for kauri).

cshwone

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#2716431 1-Jun-2021 05:14

openmedia:

The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

If you don't have access to a table saw then I would do as recommended previously and get it just trimmed slightly at the trade side of Bunnings with the big wall saw they have. The previously described technique of flipping one to get // keeps it flat.

If the panels are not going to be load bearing and you are going to reinforce the back then possibly just glue and clamp.

cshwone

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#2716432 1-Jun-2021 06:23

cshwone:

openmedia:

The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

If you don't have access to a table saw then I would do as recommended previously and get it just trimmed slightly at the trade side of Bunnings with the big wall saw they have. The previously described technique of flipping one to get // keeps it flat.

If the panels are not going to be load bearing and you are going to reinforce the back then possibly just glue and clamp.

Just reread your original post and you were going to glue them up anyway. Doh!

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mdf

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#2716490 1-Jun-2021 08:09

openmedia:
The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

Then a table saw is your best bet. You would need a _very_ sharp blade to get a perfect cut first time though. If possible, you might be better off seeing if you can find the equivalent without a pre finish. Then you can sand off any imperfections before finishing.

sheldonlendrum

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#2716495 1-Jun-2021 08:13

mdf:
openmedia:

The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

Then a table saw is your best bet. You would need a _very_ sharp blade to get a perfect cut first time though. If possible, you might be better off seeing if you can find the equivalent without a pre finish. Then you can sand off any imperfections before finishing.

If you do try the table saw idea, cut with the saw on a 1~2deg angle so you undercut the bottom. __/\__
This will mean the top face will touch first and clamp a bit tighter, and squeeze together better.
The glue will fill that tiny gap too.

Sheldon Lendrum
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openmedia

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#2716578 1-Jun-2021 09:53

cshwone:

openmedia:

The edges have been rounded off and I want a nice square edge to butt join.

If you don't have access to a table saw then I would do as recommended previously and get it just trimmed slightly at the trade side of Bunnings with the big wall saw they have. The previously described technique of flipping one to get // keeps it flat.

If the panels are not going to be load bearing and you are going to reinforce the back then possibly just glue and clamp.

I asked at Bunnings and they are unable to put those panels thru their saw due to the width.

Generally known online as OpenMedia, now working for Red Hat APAC as a Technology Evangelist and Portfolio Architect. Still playing with MythTV and digital media on the side.

cshwone

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#2716608 1-Jun-2021 10:49

Is there a Menzshed nearby that you could get access to to get the cuts done?