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David321

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#302649 9-Dec-2022 08:16
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Hi all, 

 

 

 

I am looking to sound proof an interior wall which also has an internal door on it. I plan to remove the gib on one side so I can put pink bats silencer between the framing then re-gib.

 

Ill be replacing the gib with gib noiseline 10mm just on one side, id like to do it properly and put 13mm on both sides etc but this would make the job a whole lot more work than it is on a limited time frame plus id have to cut the carpet back and pack out the door trim to match etc which is to much work.

 

the main area I have little knowledge around is the door, I understand a solid core door is my best option with good seals around the frame, is this correct? id love to be able to buy a pre-hung solid door in its own frame, as the door would fit snug into the frame it comes with, and I could secure the frame to my existing wall frame easy enough, but when it comes to a blank door which needs hanging in an existing frame I need a builder. 

 

If seals with a solid door are the way to go what are some good seals? a google search brings up hundreds of different results (sigh).

 

Apart from replacing the hollow door with a solid one, and sealing the door frame, and putting pink batts siliencer in the walls with 10mm noiseline gib on one side of the wall is there anything else I should consider? 





_David_

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MikeAqua
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  #3007606 9-Dec-2022 08:29
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I looked at noise line for a house in Blenheim.  I was told it doesn't make very much difference, unless you install it with the recommended railing system.  This was going to be a PITA around the windows and doors, so I didn't bother.  I just insulated the walls, and that made a dramatic difference.  I already had solid timber doors.  I think a solid, laminated door would do an even better job.





Mike




Handle9
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  #3007607 9-Dec-2022 08:34
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If I was doing it myself I’d use polyester rather than pink batts. It’s a much nicer product to work with and you don’t need the same amount of PPE.

As Mike said above it makes a heck of a difference. If I was in your position I’d make one change at a time and then assess if you need to go further. Are you going for fully isolating the room or just reducing the noise to/from it?

Torquenstein
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  #3007608 9-Dec-2022 08:34
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I double stacked 13mm standard GIB and insulated with sound batts in my home office. Went with a solid MDF core door. Happy with results. Could not justify the rail system nor increase in cost with noiseline.

 

Below is good resource

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1JjHWJvl7y31sN2yU1QbUb13w7Pqfx7n-bMwGkj6wLIo/edit#gid=0




mdf

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  #3007633 9-Dec-2022 09:04
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Depending on just how noise proof you want this (and how much you are willing to spend) you may want to invest in a proper acoustic door.

e.g. https://www.pacificdoors.co.nz/acoustic/acoustic-doors

Handsomedan
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  #3007645 9-Dec-2022 09:33
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I'd also recommend thinking about the ceiling. A lot of sound goes up and out from that direction and no matter what you do on the walls and door, if you have a non-acoustically-sealed ceiling, you're going to get a lot of sound leakage in that direction and people are still going to hear your captives scream, or your drum kit thump, or your gaming rig go bang, bang, bang. 

 

 

 

 





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Yoban
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  #3007658 9-Dec-2022 09:57
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have you looked at using Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) - hang this up before putting plasterboard back on: How to install Mass Loaded Vinyl. - YouTube


HP

 
 
 
 

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sir1963
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  #3007666 9-Dec-2022 10:30
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David321:

 

Hi all, 

 

 

 

I am looking to sound proof an interior wall which also has an internal door on it. I plan to remove the gib on one side so I can put pink bats silencer between the framing then re-gib.

 

Ill be replacing the gib with gib noiseline 10mm just on one side, id like to do it properly and put 13mm on both sides etc but this would make the job a whole lot more work than it is on a limited time frame plus id have to cut the carpet back and pack out the door trim to match etc which is to much work.

 

the main area I have little knowledge around is the door, I understand a solid core door is my best option with good seals around the frame, is this correct? id love to be able to buy a pre-hung solid door in its own frame, as the door would fit snug into the frame it comes with, and I could secure the frame to my existing wall frame easy enough, but when it comes to a blank door which needs hanging in an existing frame I need a builder. 

 

If seals with a solid door are the way to go what are some good seals? a google search brings up hundreds of different results (sigh).

 

Apart from replacing the hollow door with a solid one, and sealing the door frame, and putting pink batts siliencer in the walls with 10mm noiseline gib on one side of the wall is there anything else I should consider? 

 

 

 

 

Make the wife sleep in a seperate room ?????


timmmay
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  #3007668 9-Dec-2022 10:39
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Yeah, it might be easier to just ask your wife to keep it down 😂


David321

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  #3007678 9-Dec-2022 10:56
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Haha, actually I am converting the office attached to our room into a bedroom, we have our daughter in one room and her parents will stay with us for 6 months in the spare room. With a new born planed who will be sharing the room with my wife I have decided to turn the office into my "safe place" away from a crying baby. Might even let my wife sleep in there sometimes :) 





_David_

David321

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  #3007680 9-Dec-2022 10:57
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Handle9: If I was doing it myself I’d use polyester rather than pink batts. It’s a much nicer product to work with and you don’t need the same amount of PPE.

As Mike said above it makes a heck of a difference. If I was in your position I’d make one change at a time and then assess if you need to go further. Are you going for fully isolating the room or just reducing the noise to/from it?

 

 

 

I am not sure there is a polyester insulation designed for acoustic performance like pink batts silencer?  





_David_

lapimate
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  #3007682 9-Dec-2022 10:59
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Yoban:... Mass ... 

 

Indeed. Mass (which is not provided by batts) is a very important factor for wall sound-proofing; also any air-gaps (eg at construction junctions or around doors) are defeating.


 
 
 
 

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vexxxboy
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  #3007697 9-Dec-2022 11:41
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the 1 plus of needing hearing aids , your room is automatically sound proofed when you go to bed.





Common sense is not as common as you think.


David321

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  #3007718 9-Dec-2022 13:07
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lapimate:

 

Yoban:... Mass ... 

 

Indeed. Mass (which is not provided by batts) is a very important factor for wall sound-proofing; also any air-gaps (eg at construction junctions or around doors) are defeating.

 

 

 

 

This looks like an acoustic sheet secured to the face of the framing before the gib goes on? can this be bought in nz??





_David_

Handle9
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  #3007736 9-Dec-2022 15:16
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David321:

Handle9: If I was doing it myself I’d use polyester rather than pink batts. It’s a much nicer product to work with and you don’t need the same amount of PPE.

As Mike said above it makes a heck of a difference. If I was in your position I’d make one change at a time and then assess if you need to go further. Are you going for fully isolating the room or just reducing the noise to/from it?


 


I am not sure there is a polyester insulation designed for acoustic performance like pink batts silencer?  



All the usual manufacturers have an acoustic product.

PolicyGuy
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  #3007788 9-Dec-2022 15:35
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David321:

 

This looks like an acoustic sheet secured to the face of the framing before the gib goes on? can this be bought in nz??

 

 

Discussed in this thread

 

Suggested product: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/heavy-duty-sound-barrier-damping-material-improved/p/AX3680


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