PDL Door "extender"

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mentalinc

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#315095 13-Jun-2024 09:31

Hi All

Just had a new power meter installed (the metering one with an ICP).

It's much deeper than the old one, which is preventing the doors from closing properly on the wall unit - It's a PDL DBF30 (circa 12 years old).

Does anyone know if you can get some sort of extended to increase the profile for the doors to enable doors to close properly image below

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Smpl Mnmlst
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#3248268 13-Jun-2024 09:52

Depending on how much you want to spend, maybe you could replace that flush mount cabinet with a surface mount but somehow still leaving the meter in the rear of the cavity.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

mentalinc

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#3248269 13-Jun-2024 09:59

The existing cabinet is screwed in and I can't access four screws holding it in place due to the new meter blocking the screws :(

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nztim

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#3248270 13-Jun-2024 10:01

Was it your choice to replace the power meter or the lines company?

If it was the lines company, I would be telling them, hey, you have left a mess at my house where by I cannot close my door, please come back and find a solution

Any views expressed on these forums are my own and don't necessarily reflect those of my employer.

eracode

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#3248272 13-Jun-2024 10:01

This not meant to be a joke but how about cutting a neat hole in the RH door so that the door will close with the meter protruding through? (Assuming the LH door is properly closed and only the RH door has a problem - bit hard to tell from your photo).

Could you post a photo with the two doors open?

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Bung

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#3248275 13-Jun-2024 10:11

What else is in there. I was thinking some sort of trim surround between door frame and gib but our box has breakers with the door frame being the breaker front panel. Pulling doors forward would recess breakers opening gaps etc. Maybe one of the electricians could chime in with how a 100mm deep cabinet holds 110mm deep meters?

eracode

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#3248276 13-Jun-2024 10:12

Another idea could be to neatly cut across the top and bottom plastic frames of the existing box flush with the wall to remove the door assembly. Then make a pine frame/spacer around the opening and mount the top and bottom frames (with the doors) on the wooden frame.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

mentalinc

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#3248278 13-Jun-2024 10:13

The hole cut option, good idea, insure of the WAF on that one, might as well just take off the door, intention is to hide it.

We requested the meter to be replaced so I can move to a cheaper power company who requires smart metering.

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johno1234

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#3248280 13-Jun-2024 10:23

Is there a code requirement to have a door on the board that closes? If so have the meter installers created a non compliant installation and therefore should be liable to correct this?

eracode

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#3248289 13-Jun-2024 10:42

mentalinc:

The existing cabinet is screwed in and I can't access four screws holding it in place due to the new meter blocking the screws :(

One or two photos with the doors open would probably help.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

eracode

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#3248290 13-Jun-2024 10:45

How deep is the cavity? i.e. does the existing cabinet take up all the depth - is the rear of the cabinet up against the far-side gib (or whatever) on the inside?

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Goosey

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#3248395 13-Jun-2024 14:07

Know anyone who can 3D print either new doors or an extension?

are you a public library member?
many now have 3D printers…. So that option is there (not sure of the charges for materials but I’m sure it would be cheap if you BYO with approval. (Maybe you could tell them “I’m learning and using this as my first project”.

Daynger

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#3248547 13-Jun-2024 18:29

I Know Vynco did a spacer for their 40way boards for this reason, im not sure if PDL do one.

SomeoneSomewhere

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#3248551 13-Jun-2024 19:27

While we haven't quite gone as far as the UK requiring all switchboards to be steel, bear in mind that they're still supposed to be at least self-extinguishing and preferably contain any fire that does occur.

I believe there were at one point extra slim smart meters for cases like this.

nickb800

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#3248687 14-Jun-2024 06:55

mentalinc:

The existing cabinet is screwed in and I can't access four screws holding it in place due to the new meter blocking the screws :(

Could you pop off the doors, and fit a surface mount switchboard of the same size over the top? That way, you would be keeping the original faceplate in place (and thus not 'entering the switchboard). Would require some hacking of the back and front plate of the surface mount switchboard.

eracode

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#3248693 14-Jun-2024 07:39

nickb800:

mentalinc:

The existing cabinet is screwed in and I can't access four screws holding it in place due to the new meter blocking the screws :(

Could you pop off the doors, and fit a surface mount switchboard of the same size over the top? That way, you would be keeping the original faceplate in place (and thus not 'entering the switchboard). Would require some hacking of the back and front plate of the surface mount switchboard.

That's a great idea and if successful would be very neat. However those cabinets are expensive but at what price aesthetics, eh. Also depends on OP's DIY skills.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

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