Re-cover or replace bathroom vanity veneer?

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timmmay

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#319952 17-Jun-2025 11:47

Our Athena bathroom vanity is about 13 years old, it looks something like this. The basins look new, hinges and drawers work perfectly, but where the veneer ends on the panels a bit of water or steam has gotten in and either the veneer is lifting slightly or there's a bit of swelling in the wood underneath.

We asked Athena if they sold the spare panels, they said it would be cost prohibitive and buying a new vanity was a better option. We like our one just fine, and doing a replacement is a bigger job - plumber disconnects everything, builder takes out the vanity, cleans the silicone off, puts the new vanity on, plumbing is reconnected, silicone is applied, touch ups done where things were damaged with the work done, etc. It's probably going to take longer and cost more, we'd rather see if we can get the current one repaired.

Is it possible to have panels recoated? It's possible the wood underneath has swelled and might need to be sanded. Or is it better to replace the panels? I guess a local cabinet maker would be the place to go.

Has anyone done this? Any experience or advice?

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#3385044 17-Jun-2025 12:11

Hope you find a solution , we had to replace the whole vanity unit wasn’t worth fixing it

Handsomedan

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#3385045 17-Jun-2025 12:27

Have you thought about contacting a kitchen "facelifter"?
The ones that specialise in renewing old kitchens with a minimum of replacement.

We had our kitchen facelifted a number of years ago and there were certain areas they simply "ironed on" new laminate. It was...interesting to see.

This may no longer be a thing, but could be worth exploring.

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#3385051 17-Jun-2025 13:05

One of the reasons why it’s better to buy plywood based vanities which is what I replaced one of ours with. Also worth getting a joiner to make some new doors for you. I paid $70 for each new door almost identical colour laminate and it didn’t really matter as you don’t see much of the case. Joiner in Island Bay.

timmmay

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#3385061 17-Jun-2025 13:47

Thanks all. Now I know they exist I've sent messages to a couple of kitchen / bathroom "facelifters" to see if they can help. I might also call the company that made some cupboard doors for us a while back. I'll post an update at some point if we have any luck with this.

Handsomedan

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#3385095 17-Jun-2025 16:02

timmmay:

Thanks all. Now I know they exist I've sent messages to a couple of kitchen / bathroom "facelifters" to see if they can help. I might also call the company that made some cupboard doors for us a while back. I'll post an update at some point if we have any luck with this.

Good luck!
I look forward to hearing how it all goes.

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mrdrifter

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#3385100 17-Jun-2025 16:45

I replaced the panels on our vanity that was suffering from the same issues. It worked out much more affordable than a new unit as it is a slightly awkward size and a new unit would have had to be custom built. I measured (and re measured) everything very carefully and then ordered the exact panels in the dimensions required from uduit. I double checked all of the dimensions and grain directions to ensure what I ordered was going to be correct.

I replaced 3 drawer fronts, 4 doors, both sides and kick panels while also updating the hinges to soft close. It's been 5 years and the unit still looks brand-new.

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Eva888

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#3385115 17-Jun-2025 18:17

timmmay:

Thanks all. Now I know they exist I've sent messages to a couple of kitchen / bathroom "facelifters" to see if they can help. I might also call the company that made some cupboard doors for us a while back. I'll post an update at some point if we have any luck with this.

I called first with a rough measurement and got the quote per door and then took the doors off and gave them to the Joiner. Do mark the door in pencil top and right side. I used Empire Kitchens. You can mention that their customer was charged $70 per door and haggle if it’s more than that. Mine were basic cream colour so may have been cheaper than your colour.

Handle9

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#3385118 17-Jun-2025 18:18

Repair in place is unlikely to be able to be done so the vanity will likely have to be removed to repair it anyway. At that point replacement of the cabinet is likely the best option.

If you still like the countertop then just replacing the cabinet could be done. As it is a standard size you could see what you could find at 1500 long or get a kitchen or cabinet maker to make one for you.

timmmay

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#3385144 17-Jun-2025 20:40

Athena is now saying they can supply the panels, but we have to go through a retailer to get a price. That would probably be the easiest way, but I have a firm coming to look that might be able to do it as well. Ideally we can get the panels however we do it, then someone can change them over in a day. The vanity matches the doors to another cupboard in the room, which match wardrobes in the bedrooms as well.

@mrdrifter that sounds like a good option. Did you have to take the vanity apart to get accurate sizes? One of the panels on ours goes up under the sink part. I have no idea how to get a vanity apart, and I don't really want to bother doing it myself.

@Handle9 that's a good point, unless we order panels from the manufacturer or at least get the specs from them it will have to be taken apart and will be out of action. Looking at it though I wonder if we can get the panels off and leave the sink working... I might have to ask for the installation manual. We'd like to keep the cabinet layout we have, though the one I linked to above is similar.

Handle9

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#3385145 17-Jun-2025 20:43

Usually you mount the cabinet and then place the benchtop on top with silicone and sometimes clips to hold it in place. The actual mounting is usually on the cabinet.

timmmay

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#3385146 17-Jun-2025 20:48

Handle9:

Usually you mount the cabinet and then place the benchtop on top with silicone and sometimes clips to hold it in place. The actual mounting is usually on the cabinet.

That makes sense. I can see a couple of big bolts going through the back of the cabinet into the wall.

I'll see if we can get replacement panels, and what the place says that refurbishes bathrooms, but it's seeming more difficult than I'd hoped. We want to do a similar thing with the shower, just over time a few bits wear out so want to try to replace those too. Fun ;)

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mrdrifter

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#3385151 17-Jun-2025 20:56

timmmay:

Athena is now saying they can supply the panels, but we have to go through a retailer to get a price. That would probably be the easiest way, but I have a firm coming to look that might be able to do it as well. Ideally we can get the panels however we do it, then someone can change them over in a day. The vanity matches the doors to another cupboard in the room, which match wardrobes in the bedrooms as well.

@mrdrifter that sounds like a good option. Did you have to take the vanity apart to get accurate sizes? One of the panels on ours goes up under the sink part. I have no idea how to get a vanity apart, and I don't really want to bother doing it myself.

@Handle9 that's a good point, unless we order panels from the manufacturer or at least get the specs from them it will have to be taken apart and will be out of action. Looking at it though I wonder if we can get the panels off and leave the sink working... I might have to ask for the installation manual. We'd like to keep the cabinet layout we have, though the one I linked to above is similar.

Yes I had to take ours about 50% apart to switch out the panels, it was a combination of internal carcass skeleton and end panels as the main support for the benchtop. I had the bench top off as I was switching it out anyway as it was pink and dated back to the early 90's. The cabinet itself was pink originally along with the horrendous bath and the shower. By the time I was doing the vanity, I had already done ~13m of kitchen cabinet install.

As mentioned by the post above, the bench top is help down with some silicon/adhesive and a couple of screws into the timber frame (depends on the bench top manufacturing style).

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#3385152 17-Jun-2025 21:04

Removal and disconnection/reconnection of the plumbing is very handyman friendly, providing the installation has been done correctly. A plumber really shouldn't be required if there are angle valves installed and you are disconnecting/reconnecting like for like with the same benchtop. It's disconnecting two hoses and pushing a waste into place per basin.

It's really basic skills a homeowner should know how to do as it's useful in case of leaks and emergencies.

timmmay

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#3385169 18-Jun-2025 07:42

mrdrifter:

Yes I had to take ours about 50% apart to switch out the panels, it was a combination of internal carcass skeleton and end panels as the main support for the benchtop. I had the bench top off as I was switching it out anyway as it was pink and dated back to the early 90's. The cabinet itself was pink originally along with the horrendous bath and the shower. By the time I was doing the vanity, I had already done ~13m of kitchen cabinet install.

As mentioned by the post above, the bench top is help down with some silicon/adhesive and a couple of screws into the timber frame (depends on the bench top manufacturing style).

I guess then to measure panels you'd do something like this?

Disconnect the plumbing and taps
Take the vanity top off
Take the panels off to measure
Re-assemble vanity
Reconnect taps and plumbing

timmmay

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#3385170 18-Jun-2025 07:51

Handle9:

Removal and disconnection/reconnection of the plumbing is very handyman friendly, providing the installation has been done correctly. A plumber really shouldn't be required if there are angle valves installed and you are disconnecting/reconnecting like for like with the same benchtop. It's disconnecting two hoses and pushing a waste into place per basin.

It's really basic skills a homeowner should know how to do as it's useful in case of leaks and emergencies.

I've replaced taps in the past, it's fiddly but not that difficult. In our kitchen I had small taps added by the plumber a while back, but haven't gotten to it in the bathroom yet.

This is what the plumbing looks like under the sink. I'd probably just have to turn the water main off then unscrew the fittings, with a bucket / towel underneath.

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