Stuck Drawer on F & P Dishdrawer

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Technofreak

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#323067 21-Oct-2025 19:22

I've just replaced the seals and motor rotor on the top drawer of our 80388-A DD605MFD F and P Dishdrawer. It's the one with the stainless flat panel drawer fronts without the LCD display. It just has three small round buttons and two small LEDS above two of the buttons on the front at the top right of each drawer. The wash cycle controls are on the inside of the drawers.

The repair involved pulling the drawer out and turning it upside down.

I started a test run only to get a fault. Red LED above start /Pause button came on on both drawers accompanied by regular beeps.

The fault code on the bottom drawer tell me it's a fault with the top drawer (as expected) which has disabled the power supply.

The top drawer is stuck shut. I've followed the instructions about recycling the power etc to release the lid but that doesn't let the drawer open.

I suspect the lid is down (possibly stuck) and trapping the drawer from opening.

Can anyone give me some idea on how to open the drawer. Nothing useful shows up when I do a search.

I suspect I may have to pull the Dishdrawer out from under the bench to get access to the lid actuators to release the drawer. I'd like some idea on my best options before I do that. Thanks

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#3427061 21-Oct-2025 19:27

Is there a key lock or child lock indicator active?

Technofreak

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#3427081 21-Oct-2025 20:15

gzt: Is there a key lock or child lock indicator active?

No, the only indicator is the red fault LED.

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Technofreak

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#3427102 21-Oct-2025 23:17

It turns out that with the lid down you can open the drawer. It just takes much more effort than normal.

It's designed that way in case of a power cut during the wash cycle.

That little gem is hidden in one paragraph of the service manual.

Don't try shutting it again till the lid has been raised, otherwise damage to the lid seal may occur.

I can now read the fault code, plus now that I can see under the tub I can see a probable cause.

Now to figure out why the new seals are leaking, as there is water around the base of the pump motor.

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Senecio

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#3427103 21-Oct-2025 23:19

@Technofreak

I've passed your enquiry on to the lead engineer that looks after dishdrawers. If he comes back with anything helpful in the morning I'll share it here.

Scratch that, looks like you have it solved.

Technofreak

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#3427115 22-Oct-2025 08:10

Senecio:

@Technofreak

I've passed your enquiry on to the lead engineer that looks after dishdrawers. If he comes back with anything helpful in the morning I'll share it here.

Scratch that, looks like you have it solved.

Thank you @Senecio.

The original problem was water dripping from under the top drawer, but no fault codes. I discovered the shim on the inner heating plate seal had disintegrated plus the seal looked a bit manky around the top edge I figured that was the cause of the leak.

I put in a new seal kit and also replaced the pump rotor as the lower impeller was disintegrating and rotor was showing signs of wear against the casing.

I still have a leak and now a fault code F9 C which could be caused by the water or something I did when I disturbed the wiring to replace the seals.

The leaks is a mystery as I doubt it's coming from the seals.

I'm about to start looking at it again this morning. Hmmmmm

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insane

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#3427159 22-Oct-2025 12:52

I eventually gave up on our 605 after several motor rotor replacements and multiple large leaks (have wooden floors). Several times the top drawer didn't properly close shut due to too large plates being washed, and if memory serves there are only two arms (one each side) that pull the top lid shut. So it can shut but be kept ajar at the corners. Each time the electrical components took a bath too, so luckily it did shut itself off.

The newer ones have solved this early design flaw.

Dell

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Technofreak

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#3427182 22-Oct-2025 15:18

I've learned how to manually adjust the lid actuators. The manual tells you to do it to ensure the actuator is extended to ensure the lid is fully up, but doesn't say how.

It's relatively simple just fiddly. Remove the drawer, unclip the actuator from the lid yoke and then twist (rotate) the end of the actuator to wind it out.

It looks like the heater plate has failed. There is is a 98 ohm dropping resistor on the heater plate the is part of the power supply circuit for control boards etc.

I can measure the 51 ohm heater element and the ~ 11k ohm thermistor but the dropping resistor is open circuit.

This matches with the F9 fault code, which has a controller fault as one option.

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Technofreak

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#3430058 2-Nov-2025 12:05

A new heater plate fixed my F9 fault code.

Put it all back together and did a test run, all OK. No fault codes and no leak. 😊👍

I ran a normal wash cycle , no problems then did a cleaning cycle to remove some of the scale build up. The leak that I started out to fix right at the start has reappeared. 😠

After I had initially replaced the seals and when I got the F9 fault I still had the leak.

I then suspected the connection where the drain hose attaches to the pump. See picture. The drain hose is the black hose with the grey connector on the end. The moisture you see is condensation from the leak. There is a plastic cover that sits below this area where the leaked water pools

I had replaced the O ring when I replaced the seals.

When I replaced the heater plate I had to remove the drain hose (again) and I took particular care to ensure there was no debris affecting the seating of the O ring when I re installed the drain hose.

I still suspect the drain hose connection as I cannot see any other obvious place for the leak to occur. Does anyone have any experience with leaks in this area and how to fix them? @Senecio, would your contact have any helpful information?

I think the connection sealed initially but with the vibration from the pump and heating and cooling during the wash cycles the seal isn't seating properly.

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Bung

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#3430067 2-Nov-2025 12:41

I would be suspicious of a pinhole leak in the corrugated black hose.

Technofreak

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#3430222 2-Nov-2025 21:38

Bung:

I would be suspicious of a pinhole leak in the corrugated black hose.

Yes, I had considered that or a split in the hose too. However the fact it didn't leak for two cycles makes me think it's not the hose.

My next plan is to run it and try and observe the area where it's leaking to see where the water is coming from though that might be easier said than done, hence the reason for my post asking for any ideas.

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dazzanz

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#3430328 3-Nov-2025 08:24

If you're in Wellington I have a double dish drawer in my garage, we used it for about a year. Happy to sell it at a reasonable price.

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SepticSceptic

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#3430616 3-Nov-2025 22:03

For detecting errant and tiny leaks, use a piece of tissue, or toilet paper, located where you think the leak may be located.

Any kind of dampness or micro spray is quite easily seen on the tissue where it gets wet.

Blue paper hand towels are even better for showing up water spots.

Technofreak

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#3430617 3-Nov-2025 22:32

SepticSceptic:

For detecting errant and tiny leaks, use a piece of tissue, or toilet paper, located where you think the leak may be located.

Any kind of dampness or micro spray is quite easily seen on the tissue where it gets wet.

Blue paper hand towels are even better for showing up water spots.

Thanks for the tip.

I've figured out that with the drawer front removed I can see under the tub area where the leak is.

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fastbike

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#3431297 5-Nov-2025 17:52

SepticSceptic:

For detecting errant and tiny leaks, use a piece of tissue, or toilet paper, located where you think the leak may be located.

Any kind of dampness or micro spray is quite easily seen on the tissue where it gets wet.

Blue paper hand towels are even better for showing up water spots.

I removed the hose and sealed the end with my thumb, and used so compressed air to figure out where the black drain house was leaking.

I still have two single DS601 machines and a box of spares to keep them on the road. At some stage I'll be asked to upgrade them LoL.

Otautahi Christchurch

Technofreak

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#3431316 5-Nov-2025 20:55

I found the source of my leak. It wasn't where I expected it to be.

It's coming from the seam between the pump motor housing and the sump of the pump.

The red outlined area shows the water seeping from the seam and the blue outlined area shows the water running around the inlet pipe and drips can be seen on the bottom of the sump area.

I need to decide if it's worth trying to seal the seam or just spring for a new housing.

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