I use the thin sellotape branded one.

In the past tried some of the elastic stuff like 3m command that you can pull to get out, but it had too much flex and the template could move side to side a bit.

The other thing I do it some ados on and off glue on the template, it makes it like a postit note and easy to peel off. MDF dust kills it if it gets in it tho.

Similar to Rich, I use a thin film type tape.  Any of the foam or gum backed tapes (as used in cars) are far too mobile.  With a router mobility is dangerous.

I've also used the masking tape and CA glue method, but CA glue activator isn't easy to get hold of in NZ.

Thanks guys.

I have been using tape and CA glue, but it's a bit fiddly to use. Have to be careful to line up both bits of tape or you can glue the template to the workpiece.

M10 do have a Soudal CA glue and activator. Have been meaning to get some.

Never seen that ADOS product. Do you just spray it on the bottom of the template and then press it down on the workpiece without any tape? Does it leave any residue on the workpiece?

Spray on the template. Let its solvents *totally* evaporate which takes time, and then its repositionable like a postit note till the MDF dust gets into it. I then clean it all off with alcohol or thinners (cant recall which worked best) and then respray on the template.

If its dried before you put it on the wood you're cutting, nothing transfers over at all that matters. It can leave a residue that looks bad but it just wipes off. I think it may have been interacting with the waxy crap on the surface of the MDF that I sand thru up paint anyway.

You could try/test hot-melt glue.

I'm using it increasingly it for temporary holding, since I recently got an Ozito gun - ie: cheap - which both uses my existing battery collection and heats up about 3x faster than my 30 year-old mk 1 glue gun. 

So now every job 'looks like a nail' ;-)

But test it out - as obviously it may stain/mark the surface a bit.
But it's fast and cheap and (for many things) secure enough.

Isopropyl or ethanol will make hot melt detach cleanly from most surfaces.

You can get the spray activator from hobby shops. Though like others, I've had worries about making sure the tapes line up to prevent the template becoming a permanent "feature" of whatever I'm working on. My usual method is blue or green tape on the "good" piece, then a strip of vinyl double sided tape (this one I think - stronger than the Sellotape stuff) stuck to that, then the template. It usually seems to come apart between the blue tape and vinyl tape, but I've never had a good piece with any tear out or overstick that needs solvent or sanding to tidy up.