New HWC leak at inlet crox (is this poor workmanship?)

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peng1nz

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#324687 13-May-2026 09:36

Any plumbers here?

This is a 2 year old house we have just moved into. I notice the pipe feeding the HWC inlet has a slow leak at the crox nut at the cold inlet. It appears that the connection is slightly misaligned. The misalignment appears to be caused by the 'straight' polybute (or PEX?) pipe that connects back to the pressure value, it is 'pulling' on this crox connection. It is also possible that the alignment was 'good' when first done but has been damaged by something being put in this cupboard as the whole setup is fairly exposed.

I am wondering if I can just tweak this crox nut up or is that a bad installation that needs to be replumbed with a 90deg bend on the flexible pipe? Or perhaps should have had that section done with copper?

Bung

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#3490511 13-May-2026 12:45

The swivel fitting should have a seal as shown https://www.buteline.com/brass-female-swivel-elbows

It looks seriously misaligned. I'm not sure how it is sealing on the angle it is. I would shut water off and undo it to check the sealing ring/see if there's also unnecessary tape. Then tighten it with the elbow square onto the ball valve. If it was done right at the start it wouldn't move.

eracode

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#3490513 13-May-2026 12:54

IANA plumber but it looks like the plastic pipe has been cut too short - and is causing the pulling on the elbow. If the plastic was a bit longer, the elbow could seat properly without being pulled.

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gzt

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#3490571 13-May-2026 13:31

I am wondering if I can just tweak this crox nut up or is that a bad installation that needs to be replumbed with a 90deg bend on the flexible pipe?

It looks seriously misaligned. I'm not sure how it is sealing on the angle it is. I would shut water off and undo it to check the sealing ring/see if there's also unnecessary tape. Then tighten it with the elbow square onto the ball valve. If it was done right at the start it wouldn't move.

That has a good chance of working. However, consider the disaster scenario or the cost of springing a leak somewhere else as a result of increasing the stress on that aspect.

One way or another that is an installation defect imo and you could consider exercising a warranty if you have one.

Bung

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#3490584 13-May-2026 14:33

eracode:

IANA plumber but it looks like the plastic pipe has been cut too short - and is causing the pulling on the elbow. If the plastic was a bit longer, the elbow could seat properly without being pulled.

I see the opposite. To me the pipe is pushing the elbow.

eracode

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#3490585 13-May-2026 14:42

Bung:

eracode:

IANA plumber but it looks like the plastic pipe has been cut too short - and is causing the pulling on the elbow. If the plastic was a bit longer, the elbow could seat properly without being pulled.

I see the opposite. To me the pipe is pushing the elbow.

Now that I look more carefully, I think you’re right. I was thinking ‘pulling’ because OP said pulling.

Either way it seems the plastic pipe is too stiff and is stopping the elbow from seating properly or easily. One of those flexible pipes with the braided steel exterior might good here.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

mattwnz

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#3490586 13-May-2026 14:57

Should they ever be bending a pipe like that? We had the old black plumbing that is known to leak and it used to develop pin prick holes in the bends like that. The problem with that connector is that a plumber may say it had been knocked badly.

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eracode

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#3490588 13-May-2026 15:07

peng1nz:

I am wondering if I can just tweak this crox nut up …..

Again IANA plumber but on balance I think that’s well worth trying. That might be all it needs. If that was me I’d try it. Without using excessive force - if it doesn’t feel right (eg amount of force needed to turn the crox nut) stop.

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Kickinbac

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#3490977 14-May-2026 19:19

That is horrible workmanship. It looks like dux as they use the copper crimp bands, Buteline is aluminium. That pipe should be straight and level. I would replace it with copper and proper elbows. A good old skool plumber would do it in one piece with pipe benders.
Don’t touch it unless you have the bits to fix it properly otherwise you’ll end up with no hot water.

eracode

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#3491132 15-May-2026 07:38

Kickinbac:

That is horrible workmanship. It looks like dux as they use the copper crimp bands, Buteline is aluminium. That pipe should be straight and level. I would replace it with copper and proper elbows. A good old skool plumber would do it in one piece with pipe benders.
Don’t touch it unless you have the bits to fix it properly otherwise you’ll end up with no hot water.

Are you a plumber?

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Bung

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#3491144 15-May-2026 08:37

At least the element is still accessible, just. Probably by accident /s.

Kickinbac

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#3491163 15-May-2026 09:35

eracode:

Kickinbac:

That is horrible workmanship. It looks like dux as they use the copper crimp bands, Buteline is aluminium. That pipe should be straight and level. I would replace it with copper and proper elbows. A good old skool plumber would do it in one piece with pipe benders.
Don’t touch it unless you have the bits to fix it properly otherwise you’ll end up with no hot water.

Are you a plumber?

HVAC engineer. I wouldn't accept pipework like that on my projects.

Edit:

Straight and level is the only way.

There's too much pressure on the bend. The pipe should be cut out and replaced and use elbows. It's a ticking time bomb, a flood waiting to happen.

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peng1nz

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#3493883 19-May-2026 22:02

Just to close this one off... I spoke with a plumber and showed him the pics. He said it looked a bit average but meets code. He recommended I fix it myself so I did.

Shut off the stop valves at each end of the leaky pipe.
Loosen the nut and straighten things up.
Retighten the nut (about 1/6th turn more than previously). Because of the pressure from the bend in the pipe it took a few goes to get it reasonably(*) straight but no sign of any leak since.

*It looks worse in this pic than in real life!