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Batman

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#193482 12-Mar-2016 14:53
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It's developed a rough whirring(?whining, but harsh) sound from 2500 rpm and gets louder/harsher with higher rpm. Does not need power to cause that eg same with engine braking but maybe not quite as loud, but only just. Not the engine, when revved in neutral no sound.

 

Anyway, I can't seem to determine what transmission it has ie the exact model. Any ideas?

 

[Thanks Blakamin, now title edited]


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blakamin
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  #1512000 12-Mar-2016 14:55
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U660E

 

 

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_U_transmission




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  #1512066 12-Mar-2016 16:24
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Heh, I looked through the whole page thought it was a fake LOL. I always thought Toyota engines and transmissions have a gazillion letters and numbers :) Thanks

 

Let me try to google the fault ...


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  #1514235 16-Mar-2016 09:58
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Turns out it's a hole in the exhaust. oops




blakamin
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  #1514747 16-Mar-2016 21:58
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HAHAHAHA!


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  #1514759 16-Mar-2016 22:13
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The bloody exhaust in the estima better be readily accessible ... noise is from engine bay side of the exhaust ...


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  #1514761 16-Mar-2016 22:15
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Is it a hole or a leaky manifold?

 

 

 

And sorry for laughing, but that seriously made me crack up :p


 
 
 
 

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  #1514772 16-Mar-2016 22:35
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Don't be sorry, me narrowing it down to the transmission, then takes it to Toyota mechanic - one loop driven, opens the bonnet, revs it. Says one word, exhaust. 

 

No not been traced yet, I'm hoping to hold off till the next WOF in june but it's getting louder by the day ... I feel like Sebastian Vettel on the hills!


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  #1514786 17-Mar-2016 00:29
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joker97:Not the engine, when revved in neutral no sound.

 

 

 

Not a good test, no load is applied when you just rev the engine. As you have now found out. :) I know you've found it to be an exhaust leak, but usually what causes a diesel type noise is detonation. Usually caused by running a car with lower octane fuel than it's designed for. 


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  #1524468 2-Apr-2016 10:29
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So it turns out the cat converter (honeycomb bit?) has collapsed internally. Hmm ... here's hoping that it will burn off itself over time ... !!?


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  #1524544 2-Apr-2016 12:08
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joker97:

 

So it turns out the cat converter (honeycomb bit?) has collapsed internally. Hmm ... here's hoping that it will burn off itself over time ... !!?

 

 

As you sound like you have detonation, and a collapsed cat converter, I would suggest you get your O2 (Oxygen) sensor checked. The motor may be running lean (too much air, not enough fuel) all the time. Which is bad.

 

 








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  #1524553 2-Apr-2016 12:24
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gbwelly:

 

joker97:

 

So it turns out the cat converter (honeycomb bit?) has collapsed internally. Hmm ... here's hoping that it will burn off itself over time ... !!?

 

 

As you sound like you have detonation, and a collapsed cat converter, I would suggest you get your O2 (Oxygen) sensor checked. The motor may be running lean (too much air, not enough fuel) all the time. Which is bad.

 

 

 

 

Apparently there is no detonation, all the noise is from shattered honeycombs ... apparently ...

 

[I paid the TOyota dealer for the diagnostic ... got a receipt ... they better be right ...]


 
 
 

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  #1524576 2-Apr-2016 13:07

Then get the cat converter removed. Cheap for an exhaust workshop to do.





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  #1524581 2-Apr-2016 13:11
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Aredwood: Then get the cat converter removed. Cheap for an exhaust workshop to do.

 

Thanks. That's the plan.


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  #1524585 2-Apr-2016 13:22
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They probably are correct, but I've found Cookes (Crooks) to be pretty average on several occasions. I'm VERY wary of them now.

The worst episode.
They wanted the vehicle over night to diagnose a smoking exhaust at startup. A real diesel mechanic diagnosed it in 3 minutes (1 to listen to my description, 2 for me to get it in the door and bonnet up). Injector seals.

Best of all, they charge like a wounded bull, and I'm not convinced that all the work they do actually needs doing. In fact I now make it very clear to them that:
-Anything they do without express permission for won't be paid for.
-If I do give permission, any parts replaced must be available for inspection when I collect or it won't be paid for.

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  #1524587 2-Apr-2016 13:24
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andrewNZ: They probably are correct, but I've found Cookes (Crooks) to be pretty average on several occasions. I'm VERY wary of them now.

The worst episode.
They wanted the vehicle over night to diagnose a smoking exhaust at startup. A real diesel mechanic diagnosed it in 3 minutes (1 to listen to my description, 2 for me to get it in the door and bonnet up). Injector seals.

Best of all, they charge like a wounded bull, and I'm not convinced that all the work they do actually needs doing. In fact I now make it very clear to them that:
-Anything they do without express permission for won't be paid for.
-If I do give permission, any parts replaced must be available for inspection when I collect or it won't be paid for.

 

Which mechanics do you recommend? (in general, not the exhaust people, but exhaust people also welcome) Thanks

 

Generally I trust dealers for making sure things are adjusted according to spec according to schedule. SOmetimes I wonder if a generic mechanic knows specifics or tricks as well as a dealer that does 1000s of the same model day in day out.

 

Generally I don't trust dealers to fix things that are outside the regular maintenance schedule, but I also have no idea who to bring to ... hence online forums :)

 

Theycosted me up $1300 to fix this. I said no thanks can I have my car back.


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