Wanting to get into cycling, is this a good option? Trek FX3

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MVT

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#289917 8-Oct-2021 18:49

As the title says, I'm in Auckland without access to a gym so want to try out cycling.

I can get this bike in near new condition for $800.
Trek FX3 disc
For my first bike in 15+ years, don't want to spend too much. If I enjoy it I can always sell and upgrade.

Thanks

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#2791929 8-Oct-2021 19:02

Where are you riding? Road, chip trails? Dirt trails.

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#2791930 8-Oct-2021 19:06

On the road and cycling paths. I'm in central Auckland.

davidcole

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#2791942 8-Oct-2021 19:24

Ok. I bought a bike last year, for road ish (I was previously a road cyclist). But was interested in chip trails. That did lead on to the odd hill track. So went for a 29” front suspension mountain bike with lock out (~$600)

so if you think you might want some trails as well as road the a mountain bike might cover you. Just IMO. I’d recommend if you went that way to look at ones with 2 front chain wheels not 1 or 3. Slightly better suited to road.

jonathan18

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#2791945 8-Oct-2021 19:27

I own something not too dissimilar to this, but with front shocks, and I used to ride it a decent amount for fitness - so, yeah, I think it could well for your purposes.

These commuter-style bikes are relatively upright, so fairly comfortable; the tyres don’t offer too much friction compared to say a mountain bike, but equally don’t get wedged into grates or similar.

I’d recommend toe clips, though, as they make a real difference in terms of efficiency.

I assume you can test-ride it? If so, I’d suggest giving it a good work-out to make sure you like this style of bike, it’s the right size for you, works well in the areas you’re likely to ride..

Following up from the post above - if you aren’t planning on using the bike off-road or on dirt trails, personally I’d recommend avoiding a mountain bike; one like you’re looking at would be better for the use case you refer to in your last post.

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#2791947 8-Oct-2021 19:35

jonathan18: I own something not too dissimilar to this, but with front shocks, and I used to ride it a decent amount for fitness - so, yeah, I think it could well for your purposes.

These commuter-style bikes are relatively upright, so fairly comfortable; the tyres don’t offer too much friction compared to say a mountain bike, but equally don’t get wedged into grates or similar.

I’d recommend toe clips, though, as they make a real difference in terms of efficiency.

I assume you can test-ride it? If so, I’d suggest giving it a good work-out to make sure you like this style of bike, it’s the right size for you, works well in the areas you’re likely to ride..

Following up from the post above - if you aren’t planning on using the bike off-road or on dirt trails, personally I’d recommend avoiding a mountain bike; one like you’re looking at would be better for the use case you refer to in your last post.

Thanks for the reply,
Yes I can test ride, doing so tomorrow morning. Online sizing guides have all come back saying it's the right size.
Will look into toe clips as well.

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#2791950 8-Oct-2021 19:39

davidcole:
Ok. I bought a bike last year, for road ish (I was previously a road cyclist). But was interested in chip trails. That did lead on to the odd hill track. So went for a 29” front suspension mountain bike with lock out (~$600)

so if you think you might want some trails as well as road the a mountain bike might cover you. Just IMO. I’d recommend if you went that way to look at ones with 2 front chain wheels not 1 or 3. Slightly better suited to road.

Initially started at that, but realised I'm more interested in endurance/long rides to get out of the house for extended periods. Realised I'm definitely past that stage in my life and closer to the lycra wearing groups of men hanging out at coffee shops next to their bikes..

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#2791967 8-Oct-2021 19:49

yeah i switched from long lycra clad rides (ive done taupo 3 tjmes and taranaki round the mountain twice), to keeping up with my son, and some basic hill work.

so i went mountain with higher gears, than say some of the downhill bikes (one front chainwheel), or the very cheap mountain bikes with 3 chain rings and millions of gears).

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#2791968 8-Oct-2021 19:52

I’m not sure of the hardiness of these particular tyres, but one thing to consider is replacing them with something with designed to offer significant puncture resistance. While I liked the ride and lack of friction of the tyres that came on my bike, I got three punctures the first week (different places so not the same problem!). Switched to a pair of Schwalbe puncture-resistant tyres and literally never had a another.

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#2791996 8-Oct-2021 22:00

MVT: As the title says, I'm in Auckland without access to a gym so want to try out cycling.

I can get this bike in near new condition for $800.
Trek FX3 disc
For my first bike in 15+ years, don't want to spend too much. If I enjoy it I can always sell and upgrade.

Thanks

yes it's a decent road bike

Technofreak

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#2792000 8-Oct-2021 22:27

I have what was called a hybrid when I bought it, a Specialized Sirrus. It's over 15 years old now. Basically a flat handle bar road/semi off road trail bike with a suspension seat and slightly lower gearing than a dedicated road bike. It looks very similar to the Trek you have linked. I also have a "proper" road bike.

I road the Sirrus pretty well only on the road to start with, doing rides like the Rotorua to Taupo Flyer, Taranaki Cycle Challenge, Lake Taupo etc. I had 22mm road tyres fitted. When I did the Otago Rail Trail on it I fitted 32 mm to the same rims. These are still on it and are good all round tyres. They are not as prone to punctures as the 22 mm tyres. You go faster more easily on thinner tyres but the ride will be harder.

I think you'll find the Trek will do what you want pretty well. As suggested get toe clips. Once you've had them you won't go back. Be prepared to fall off a couple of times in the early days of clips until you perfect the art of unclipping. One trick right at the start is to only clip one foot in.

A couple of other comments.

My road bike is carbon fibre and is a significantly softer ride than the hybrid which is aluminium. This only really matters on long non stop rides, 50 to 60 km or more. I used to get numb little fingers and my feet would burn from the vibrations through the pedals caused by the road surface. These sensations were significantly reduced or disappeared on the carbon bike. Something to consider but really only if you do a lot of long rides.

As well as getting a good helmet, get your self a pair of riding gloves. I use fingerless ones. They are extremely handy at protecting your palms if you have a spill.

As someone else mention make sure it's the right size. My hybrid is one really size to big for me. It's also worth paying a bike shop or getting someone who knows what the're doing to set up the seat height and handle bar height and reach. There is on line information telling you how to do this as well.

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#2792001 8-Oct-2021 22:32

MVT:

Initially started at that, but realised I'm more interested in endurance/long rides to get out of the house for extended periods. Realised I'm definitely past that stage in my life and closer to the lycra wearing groups of men hanging out at coffee shops next to their bikes..

Be aware of the snob factor between cyclists that ride a dedicated road bike and those that ride a flat handle bar bike. Having ridden both one group does not always acknowledge the other.

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#2792003 8-Oct-2021 22:46

jonathan18: I’m not sure of the hardiness of these particular tyres, but one thing to consider is replacing them with something with designed to offer significant puncture resistance. While I liked the ride and lack of friction of the tyres that came on my bike, I got three punctures the first week (different places so not the same problem!). Switched to a pair of Schwalbe puncture-resistant tyres and literally never had a another.

The road tyres (circa 22mm) are certainly more prone to punctures.

Watching where you ride and avoid broken glass etc and keeping the tyres properly inflated makes a big difference. These tyres need to be inflated to around 110 PSI. In my experience if they're not pumped up to around this pressure, puncture causing items like glass dig into the tread whereas if the tyre is nice and tight with high pressure the glass etc can't dig in as easily. It doesn't stick to the tyre and doesn't get as much opportunity to cause a puncture.

Riding on a wet road means the tyres become "sticky" allowing glass etc to stick to the tread and eventually dig in and cause a puncture.

Also I think a lot of punctures are self inflicted. When the tube is replaced/repaired on the side of the road there is the opportunity for grains of dirt to end up between the tube and the inside of the tyre. These grains of dirt rub away at the tube eventually causing a hole/puncture. You need to scrupulous with cleanliness. Also you need to be absolutely sure you have completely removed the original cause of the puncture otherwise you'll end up with another.

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#2792017 9-Oct-2021 06:11

Technofreak:

The road tyres (circa 22mm) are certainly more prone to punctures.

Watching where you ride and avoid broken glass etc and keeping the tyres properly inflated makes a big difference. These tyres need to be inflated to around 110 PSI. In my experience if they're not pumped up to around this pressure, puncture causing items like glass dig into the tread whereas if the tyre is nice and tight with high pressure the glass etc can't dig in as easily. It doesn't stick to the tyre and doesn't get as much opportunity to cause a puncture.

Riding on a wet road means the tyres become "sticky" allowing glass etc to stick to the tread and eventually dig in and cause a puncture.

Also I think a lot of punctures are self inflicted. When the tube is replaced/repaired on the side of the road there is the opportunity for grains of dirt to end up between the tube and the inside of the tyre. These grains of dirt rub away at the tube eventually causing a hole/puncture. You need to scrupulous with cleanliness. Also you need to be absolutely sure you have completely removed the original cause of the puncture otherwise you'll end up with another.

it comes with 32mm tyres.

if you don't want puntures go tubeless

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#2792039 9-Oct-2021 07:59

Batman:

it comes with 32mm tyres.

if you don't want puntures go tubeless

I agree on the puncture point, but I had to replace the valve last weekend on my road bike so I had to take off my tubeless tyre. I can’t get it back on so it’s a visit to the bike shop this weekend for me….

maybe just a me problem though.

To the OP, if you’re riding a bike, you’re doing it right. Regardless of when and where you’re doing it, it’s a great sport and great for your mental health. Have fun.

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#2792049 9-Oct-2021 08:37

Tubeless is easy. No more punctures. But you need (i use gloves) to pull the bead over the rim. Pushing doesn't work as it's so tight.

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