Are my battery and alternator working correctly?

Forums › Transport (cars, bikes and boats) › Are my battery and alternator working correctly?

ianganderton

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#295584 8-Apr-2022 08:28

Good morning, first post here 😎

I had a problem with my van (toyota hiace 3.0 TD) not starting the other day. I had parked at the super market, made a phone call then brought a basket of groceries so not long. When I went to start the van the starter motor solenoid clicked repeatedly

The battery voltage tested at 12.36V

A friend came out with jump leads but that didn’t work. They were very thin
Took the battery back to his and put it on a trickle charger

Charged it up to about 12.7V. Van started when back in the vehicle. Put the trickle charger on over night and battery was at 13.5V next morning. Started normally. Drove back and forth to work 45 min each way no problems

The following day I tested the voltage after overnight test and it was at 12.65V. After 45min drive it tested at 13.2V engine off

This morning I’ve watched a couple of videos and tested the battery voltage under the following conditions

12.59V off and cold
14.11V cold and running, no accessories
14.01V cold(ish) and running with all accessories
14.07V warming up minimal accessories
13.14V off and warmish

This all seems fine based on the videos I watched but I’m concerned I haven’t identified the problem that caused the van not to start

Any suggestions?

Multimeter is a Uni-T 216C
Van specs TOYOTA HIACE KDH221R KDH221 11/2006~01/2019 5 Door Van 3.0 litre, DIESEL, 1KDFTV I4 16v DOHC Turbo CRD {80KW} RWD,MT,[JAPAN]

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#2898445 8-Apr-2022 08:55

Those voltages all sound fine, but that doesn't necessarily tell the whole story.

Get the battery load tested as a first port of call (any garage/auto sparky, even repco/supercheap may do it). If it's fine, then your starter might be starting to crap out.

At that point it's best to get an auto sparky to assess it, unless you want to 'parts cannon' it & hope you got the right part first time.

If you can get to the starter easily, next time this happens, gently tap the starter with a hammer or similar while someone tries to start the vehicle. If you find this helps, most likely it is the starter.

Edit - really good points by Jase below too.

You should have a pretty decent battery - 600CCA probably as a minimum I'd guess. Also would be sensible to inspect the terminals/connections, make sure they are tight and no obvious corrosion etc.

Jase2985

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#2898446 8-Apr-2022 08:58

how old is the battery? you haven't mentioned what type or CCA is is.

12.36 volts is on the lower side of things, 60-70% charge but should still be able to start the van, unless its a lower CCA battery, they tend to come from japan with the absolute minimum of battery.

measuring the battery straight after turning off doesnt really show you much as its still trying to get to equilibrium after being charged. the voltage will always drop then settle after a period of time.

elpenguino

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#2898466 8-Apr-2022 09:59

voltages when running seem ok = alternator probably ok.

solenoid clicking during start usually = battery voltage too low = battery stuffed.

They dont last forever

Is there a date stamp on it?

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

ianganderton

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#2898489 8-Apr-2022 10:58

Thanks folks, I appreciate the replies.

I’ll check to see if there is a date on the battery. I know it’s a Bosch branded one.

It was definitely the battery solenoid clicking. My understanding is that this was due to low battery. My chief concern is why this occurred

The alternator seems to be working based on voltages when running and the fact the battery voltage had risen a bit in the few minutes the engine was running

To do list

Check battery specs (inc date and CCA)
Get battery load tested

richms

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#2898527 8-Apr-2022 11:40

First cold of the season, makes marginal batteries fail. A warm engine may be harder to start as it has expanded and harder to turn, thats when I found my dead battery exposed itself on my car. Stop at the PO Box, no start when back in car after 3-4 mins. Leave it to cool for half an hour and it would start up and sound fine.

Battery test said that it was totally stuffed but it would still work fine other than that. Run the stereo parked up for 20 mins, still start. Lights not fading out when I parked and turned off the engine before the lights like I have had on a dead one before. Only thing was not starting a still hot engine.

Richard rich.ms

hsvhel

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#2898530 8-Apr-2022 11:43

Sounds like you have a weak cell (Cells)

Load test will confirm although, if it's 5+ years it is probably worth a replacement

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Scott3

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#2898557 8-Apr-2022 12:29

I regret holding out with marginal batteries for too long. Not worth the effort to milk an extra year out of say $250 battery.

If it is more than say 4 years old (will have a date stamp on it somewhere), and has let you done once, look into having it changed.

I used these guys last time:

https://superstart.net.nz/

Most battery places will do a load test for free for you to check it's health.

wratterus

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#2898560 8-Apr-2022 12:31

Yeah dead right, also i believe you can prematurely wear out the brushes in your alternator, as every time you use the car, the thing is flat out trying to charge the knackered battery.

outdoorsnz

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#2898562 8-Apr-2022 12:33

My toyota corolla had something similar happen. Heard clicking sounds when trying to turn over.

Turned out to be the starter motor and had to get the starter motor bushes reconditioned.

surfisup1000

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#2899857 11-Apr-2022 14:47

If your battery is old, I'd definitely replace it anyway.

We had an odd problem a while back ... battery apparently flat, jumpstarted, working ok for a few days, then flat again.

Noticed the terminals and clamps were dirty and a bit loose. Cleaned terminals and clamps, and securely tightened the clamps. The battery terminals are quite narrow and slightly tapered, so tightening the clamp onto the terminal tends to squeeze the clamp upward and off the terminal altogether. But, got it on in the end.

All good since, car starts first pop, no issues.

Maybe a combination of dirty connectors and being a bit loose was the issue....fingers crossed. I've had some history of car batteries with 3 year warranties failing a month after warranty expires haha.

ianganderton

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#2899988 11-Apr-2022 19:02

Update

First up thanks to everyone who has commented. Much appreciate the info you’ve given.

It happened again today. First key turn the van turned over fine but I stopped just before the engine caught properly. Second turn of the the engine turned over for a secon but then the solenoid kicked it and it clicked.

Jump started it from a colleagues can very easily.

Decided to go to the nearest super cheap to get a new batter but the Kelston branch (and all of them apparently ??!!??) didn’t stock the right size for my Hiace (which I find weird for such a common vehicle

Went to Repco down the road and paid $389 for this

Repco 4x4 & SUV Car Battery 760 CCA 30 Month Warranty

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/globes-batteries-electrical/car-battery/car-batteries/repco-4x4-suv-car-battery-760-cca-30-month-warranty-n70zz-mf/p/A6113600

The battery tested at 12.96V before any load was applied which is significantly more that the old battery was testing at.

This is a picture of the battery that was in there. I can’t see a date stamp on it

Bosch 75Ah 630CCA

So it’s a pretty big beefy battery by its specs but I have no idea of the quality of Repco branded products.

There would have definitely be cheaper better options out there but happy to have it sorted and I’ve learnt a bit along the way too 😎

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elpenguino

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#2899994 11-Apr-2022 19:23

Good news!
Thanks for your update.
That series of characters burnt into the top could be a date code, but it would need to be decoded.
All a bit moot since you're up and running.

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

ianganderton

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#2900006 11-Apr-2022 19:59

elpenguino: Good news!
Thanks for your update.
That series of characters burnt into the top could be a date code, but it would need to be decoded.
All a bit moot since you're up and running.

Or maybe this on the corner of the label