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Batman

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#298944 29-Jul-2022 11:10
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I thought I'd ask as I don't want to buy the wrong thing from Mitre 10 ...

 

I don't suppose an impact driver or a drill is the correct tool?

 

Thank


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Senecio
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  #2947760 29-Jul-2022 11:15
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You need an impact wrench, don't get it confused with an impact driver.

 

Impact wrench

 

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/makita-impact-wrench-18-volt/p/379465

 

 




MikeB4
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  #2947761 29-Jul-2022 11:16
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I hate over tightened wheel nuts. I carry(carried) a torque wrench in our motor vehicles and tightened the nuts according to specifications. If a tyre shop or workshop is doing the job an specifically state that rattle guns and alike are not used. I confess now that if we get a puncture I call roadside assist.




Here is a crazy notion, lets give peace a chance.


thewabbit
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  #2947763 29-Jul-2022 11:17
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Impact driver will do the trick for removal, for installation you'd ideally use a torque wrench with the correct settings. Alternately use the cars wrench to tighten as the length of it will only allow you to put so much torque into it.

 

 

 

I've heard too many stories of snapped (wheel) studs to use an impact to tighten anything on a car




Bung
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  #2947767 29-Jul-2022 11:38
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Senecio:

You need an impact wrench, don't get it confused with an impact driver.


Impact wrench


https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/makita-impact-wrench-18-volt/p/379465


 



$368 without a battery and charger.

A good garage might use a torque stick to limit the torque below the required amount then finish with a torque wrench. Torque sticks were made for air guns adjusted to a set max value. They aren't as accurate with electric guns.

I use a cross brace so you can use 2 hands to undo, 1 to tighten then I've got an old Sidchrome torque wrench that pretty much only gets used on the car wheels. It isn't accurate enough at lower values.

Jase2985
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  #2947768 29-Jul-2022 11:44
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Whats wrong with a power bar and a torque wrench?


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  #2947770 29-Jul-2022 11:53
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I would argue none for electrical. Especially if you don't know what you're doing. It's a good way to cross thread nuts/bolts or snap them.

 

 

 

For doing up nuts, use the bar that is with your car, that way you know you can take the wheel off to change it on the side of the road. Do them up tight obviously but not to the stage they are impossible to take off.

 

 

 

To take off nuts that someone has put on with a rattle gun without taking this into consideration - a breaker bar and the correct size socket.

 

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/tools-equipment/hand-tools/socket-accessories/mechpro-blue-breaker-bar-610mm-1-2in-dr-mpbsk103/p/A1295078?kwSearch=breaker%20bar


 
 
 

Shop now at Mighty Ape (affiliate link).
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  #2947774 29-Jul-2022 12:00
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Annoys me no end when they use those rattle guns and over tighten the nuts - you pretty much cant humanly undo them unless you have the same appliance, or a very long handled wrench.

 

I remember a few years ago there were some complaints (Fair Go I think) about them being so over tightened they sometimes snapped off the studs!

 

 





Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler


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  #2947776 29-Jul-2022 12:11
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Unless you have a disability stopping you from using the standard tools that came with the car you should not require anything else! You are just throwing money away

Changing a tyre on a car is very simple

Scott3
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  #2947781 29-Jul-2022 12:26
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Ideal tool for removing, is a impact wrench, (likely a 1/2" one), with a matching (impact rated) socket. Pretty much every one of the common power tool brands will offer one of these. These are extremely powerful, so great for getting stuff off, but very hard to monitor how much torque is being applied, so risk damage from over torque if used on the install. Something with a cira 300Nm breakaway torque should be plenty.

 

 

 

For tighting, you want something to use as a nut runner, and then manually do the final torque with a torque wrench

 

I imagine some torque wrenches have a nut running function (where they cut out almost immediately when met with resistance - My dewalt impact driver does this on setting 1).

 

But this (not available in NZ), with an adapter to suit a socket would be an ideal nut runner. Basically a compact drill with a clutch and, with a hex head, rather than a chuck.

 

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF601F2-Brushless-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B07TXN17NS

 

 

 

In terms of the sorts of toruqe needed, most cars it comes in at 135Nm or less (135Nm for a landcruiser 100 series), but for a teala model S, 175Nm is specified.


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  #2947784 29-Jul-2022 12:32
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A torque wrench is all well and good if you have a decent one and you keep it calibrated.


nbroad
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  #2947789 29-Jul-2022 12:50
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If you really want to use a power tool, these work:

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/ozito-pxc-18v-brushless-impact-wrench-skin-only_p6290566

 

I use one for 4WD trips.

 

When I bought mine from Bunnings it came in a kit with battery, charger and impact bits.  I can't find the kit on their site now.

 

edit: found it:

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-pxc-18v-brushless-impact-wrench-kit_p0299325

 

another edit!  sorry that's AU Bunnings - maybe NZ don't stock the kits anymore.

 

 


 
 
 

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  #2947814 29-Jul-2022 13:29
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I have an electric impact wrench in my Pajero.  I have a set off off-road wheels for for beach launching the boat and having an impact wrench makes it a quick and painless job.

 

Mine is a Makita unit that will do about 300 Nm. I chose it because I have a car charger for that system and because it was variable speed.

 

The wheel nuts need 115 Nm (according to manual).  When I'm refitting the road wheels, I tighten most of the way with the impact wrench and then go round and finish them with a manual torque wrench.  I'm getting quite accurate now with the impact wrench.  I'm less fussy with the off-road wheel as I'm travelling at max of 30kmh and short distances.





Mike


Batman

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  #2947857 29-Jul-2022 13:56
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i'm not liking the idea of turning the nuts hundreds of times but i take the point about the start and the end

 

i will mount the nuts with my hands - my skinny hands are never strong enough to cross thread anything

 

and the last few turns also by hand

 

i just stand on the end of the 1+ foot tool that comes with most cars. i'm about 70kg. how many Nm torque is that?


Batman

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  #2947858 29-Jul-2022 13:57
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PS so the shops that use airguns are ok?

 

the last shop i went looked a bit dodgy and they were using electric hand tool - probably an impact wrench as mentioned


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  #2947916 29-Jul-2022 14:22
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Batman:i just stand on the end of the 1+ foot tool that comes with most cars. i'm about 70kg. how many Nm torque is that?

 

 

0.3m * 70kg * 9.8 (convert kg force to newton)  = 205 Nm


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