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273 posts

Ultimate Geek

#208061 25-Jan-2017 12:45
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I have removed the BLUE LCD panel from my projector's optical block.


Has anyone else done this and replaced it DIY and had the projector work again?


The manufacturer recommendation is full optical block replacement at $1800 plus labor.


The fitting seems simple enough - four screws hold the LCD panel.


What tips can anyone provide before I simply part out the unit instead of repair.



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142 posts

Master Geek

  #1714178 1-Feb-2017 21:08
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The 3 LCD plates are sub-pixel aligned to prism block. Even if you found another blue plate, the odds of correctly aligning it to avoid registration errors aren't good. If the machine has enough wear and tear on optics for blue plate to fail, polarisers et al will be tired too. Bin it.

273 posts

Ultimate Geek

  #1714189 1-Feb-2017 21:25
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Thanks - panels are easy to find, but I can't find anyone anywhere saying - yes did it, simple fix.


All advice is replace entire optical block and I suspected the pixel alignment is done at factory and is not for DIY hobbyists.


I'll keep her for parts for my same make and model projector as it is near worthless to anyone else.


247 posts

Master Geek

  #1715440 4-Feb-2017 16:42
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If you get hold of the service manual they typically have procedures to do most repairs.

You will need some RGB alignment images, usually from a video generator, but with the correct image type it can be done via a PC HDMI output since you are doing a hardware alignment.

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273 posts

Ultimate Geek

  #1715470 4-Feb-2017 18:05
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Thanks Masterpiece.


I've been thinking about it a lot with much frustration because it seems to be such a waste.


Everything works perfectly on this projector, except the blue panel.


I bought it for parts (lamp, filters etc) for my own identical model, but there is still the prospect of having to ditch it while it is essentially repairable (cost is the issue).


So thank you for this advice and perspective.


I had decided over the past 24 hours or so, to go ahead and try and learn what I can from the experience.


It is dismantled now and that was only possible because I have the exploded diagram and service info detail supplied from the NZ importer.


If you see the attached image, this is what it looked like on arrival and note the hours on the original lamp. Checking for burn in and signs of degradation on the polarisers confirms they are in good condition.'s a mission, but I think I have to go for it, and try to do this the right way. I have the time to do it, and with some guidance I may be able to save this one from a premature demise!






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