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235 posts

Master Geek
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Topic # 23275 24-Jun-2008 12:04
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Hoping I might find a car geek lurking around here...

I've just bought a Toyota Caldina GT Turbo (2001), hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow. It's a 2.0 L tiptronic AWD, and has got a body kit on it already.

It's going to be the family car, but I'm interested in what small things I can do to individualise it... What's the best bang:buck things to pimp my ride? I'm not a petrolhead and this is my 1st turbo so it's new territory for me...

I mean, I'm not going to lower the suspension, nor put the intercooler at the front of the car, but would a software upgrade be a good idea? Blow off valves or wastegates? What's the diff? How handy is a boost gauge? Anything else? I was thinking of painting shark's teeth around the air intake on the bonnet?!? (Not really, but it would be funny)

All thoughts appreciated...

Cheers
Jon




I reject your reality and substitute my own!
- Adam Savage, Mythbuster

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xpd

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  Reply # 140150 24-Jun-2008 12:29
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Not a "boy racer" but an enthusiast.......  Cool (go the 89 Galant Im driving atm)

Do you want go or show ? :)

If show then eyelids for the headlights are always a nice look long as the rest of the kit suits....  BOV are a bit too showy for my liking....  nice exhaust is always good (preferably full exhaut and not just the tip/muffler), can give a lot nicer purr to the car.

Something my old Legacy had inside was "carbon fibre" surrounds - it wasnt actual carbon fibre, but some sort of "sticker" almost that was used on all the surrounds in the dash etc... think ive got a picture somewhere at home Ill put up for you to see if you like. Looked damn nice.

Gauges are something that are only needed if you understand what they mean. Ive seen a LOT of cars out there with gauges etc but not actually wired into anything... funniest was a NA Toyota with a boost gauge installed - look under the hood confirmed no turbo or charger Tongue out




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235 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 140152 24-Jun-2008 12:41
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xpd: Ive seen a LOT of cars out there with gauges etc but not actually wired into anything... funniest was a NA Toyota with a boost gauge installed - look under the hood confirmed no turbo or charger Tongue out


ROTFLMAO. Like someone talking on their flash new mobile... and then it rings!

Thanks for the ideas.

Cheers
Jon




I reject your reality and substitute my own!
- Adam Savage, Mythbuster

 
 
 
 


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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 140154 24-Jun-2008 12:43
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uhm...

id get a blow off if youre looking at using it hard, it helps keep down copressure surge. I dont know if you no much about how a turbo works but basically your own exhaust gas spins the compressor keeping it i constant motion. when you accelerate the air from the turbo goes to the engine and back out when you change gear though the air flow it stoped causing a uild up in your intake which is bad for it. a blow of valve simply release this pressure. bovs are not just for show.

A waste gate keeps down boost creep you'll notice a huge difference and if yor gonna tweak your boost you wont end up blwoing your engine. but you have to be carefull if you get a big one you'll notice a lag.

boost guage is a must i you want to monitor the pressure and get the best peformance out of your set up.

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  Reply # 140158 24-Jun-2008 12:51
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As a wrx owner I'd definately recommend a replacement exhaust (ie new from the turbo), difference was pretty amazing and sounds good but not too offensively loud.  :)


xpd

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  Reply # 140159 24-Jun-2008 12:53
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Oh and another thing, dont get suckered into a turbo timer.
1) Todays turbos dont need them
2) In an accident, the last thing you want is a turbo timer trying to keep the engine running while theres potentially oil/petrol splashing around.




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Master Geek
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  Reply # 140165 24-Jun-2008 13:22
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I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket blow off valve on a GTT. The stock one is far more advanced than any cheap aftermarket job.
The best thing to do would be to give it a good service and make sure it is run on 98 octane.
There are no software upgrades for the stock ecu and going aftermarket will get costly. As xpd said, dont get a turbo timer, these turbos are water cooled so they aren't going to get too hot

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  Reply # 140175 24-Jun-2008 14:37
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Keep it stock, those cars are nice and quick already, and why would you want to put a antisocial farty exhaust and stick on carbon fibre on it ffs.

3rd party compulsory insurance is going to kill the boy racer menace and I can't wait.


xpd

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  Reply # 140187 24-Jun-2008 15:39
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electrik: Keep it stock, those cars are nice and quick already, and why would you want to put a antisocial farty exhaust and stick on carbon fibre on it ffs.

3rd party compulsory insurance is going to kill the boy racer menace and I can't wait.



Hes not after go fast bits.... so it will be staying stock as far as the engine goes....
If someone wants to modify their car, then let them.

Yes, 3rd party insurance is a great idea, but I dont think its going to do anything to the boy racer scene, if anything the "scene" will just move underground to a point.




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Ultimate Geek


  Reply # 140224 24-Jun-2008 17:25
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Not being able to drive yet, I have to say the back seat needs to be nice :D do things like put the little LCD screens on the head rests.

Also make sure you have a decent stereo system that can handle i-Pods and you can plug your laptop into the car (just to make it really nerdy)




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Master Geek
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  Reply # 140243 24-Jun-2008 18:30
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Unless you want your insurance to go through the roof, don't do anything to the engine.

And if you do make changes, make sure you tell your insurance company as they will find anyway to avoid paying you in the event of an accident.

After years of having modded cars I am now enjoying the fact that I know my car will start EVERY time I get in it and also if I am travelling any distance it ain't gonna break down.

My advice.... Leave it stock.




 

xpd

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  Reply # 140280 24-Jun-2008 19:40
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Here you go....   think its the 2nd or 3rd pic that shows the carbon fibre look the best.

http://picasaweb.google.com/xpd.nzl/Subaru




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  Reply # 140293 24-Jun-2008 20:17
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Pimping your ride

The Britten V1000 in Te Papa is the one of the best uses of Carbon Fibre in this country.

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  Reply # 140549 25-Jun-2008 19:00
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Stock blow off valve will do. Adding an aftermarket one is for sound only, OR if you're putting on a larger turbo, in which case you'd typically need to spend money on other areas such as the fuel system, and depending on how big you're going, internals etc.
The factory BOV is a recuirculating type, meaning the 'waste' air is plumbed back to before the turbo. No PSSSHHHH sound.
You'd only want to replace it if your factory one was starting to leak, by means of no longer being able to hold the pressure of the maximum boost level, and being forced to open.

I think your best option is to make sure that everything is in tip top shape in the suspension and braking department, as this is more important than power.
Make sure the tyres are all in good condition and have no unusual signs of wear. Check that the pressures are correct, there is usually a sticker on the inside sill of the drivers door indicating what the pressures should be.
Make sure that the shock's aren't leaking. You'll probably need to get a specialist to check this out. While you're there, make sure that the shocks aren't worn, and if you have to replace one, then don't, replace shocks as a pair. IE front pair and rear pair. Generally, its best to replace all 4.
Make sure none of the bushes are worn. These are the hard rubber joints in the suspension components. Typically if you get it taken for a wheel alignment (Get one of these too), the alignment technician will point worn bushes out to you.

Make sure there are no squeaks or squeals coming from the brakes. A long, constant squeal under braking can indicate that the brake pads are worn and need replacing. Most places will also offer to get the brake discs machined as well. If they don't, ask them to get it done.
A shuddering sort of squeak under braking can indicated that the pads haven't been installed correctly.
When replacing pads, a bleed of the entire system is required. 99% of mechanics will do this, but there are stories of idiots who don't.


Also, the differential, which is commonly refered to as a 'diff', sits in the rear of the car. From the gearbox, you have a shaft that connects inside the diff. The diff then changes the direction of the drive shafts turning power (torque) towards the outside wheels.
There are 2 types of diff:
And open diff (Which yours will most likely have)
and an L.S.D, or Limited Slip Diff.

An open diff is a simple one, refered to as a 'single spinner', where it sends power to the easiest path, or the wheel with less rolling resistance. In a rear wheel drive vehicle with an open diff, when you loose traction, or attempt a burnout, you'll manage to get one wheel spinning, while the other one won't spin at all.

A limited slip diff is more complex, and will evenly spread power to both wheels, even when traction is lost in one wheel. 

Heres an example of what they look like. The image is big, so I'll just provide a link
http://automix.centrum.cz/img/photo/6/35/233.jpg

You'll also have one in the gearbox for the front wheels in your case.

Hawkes Bay
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  Reply # 140560 25-Jun-2008 19:28
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Bung: Pimping your ride

The Britten V1000 in Te Papa is the one of the best uses of Carbon Fibre in this country.

ROFL




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Master Geek
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  Reply # 140916 27-Jun-2008 15:20
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Thanks for all the suggestions!

After thinking about the comments, I've decided (at the mo) to do... nothing! It seems that the car has enough of its own well-spec'd stuff to hold its head high on the road.

I got an AA full inspection as part of the purchase, and they didn't note anything of interest that would need attention any time soon, so I'm now the proud owner of a smart and fast (up to the legal 100 km/h!) boy racer family wagon!!

Gotta get rid of that annoying electronic toll meter thingy though... Tongue out

Cheers
Jon




I reject your reality and substitute my own!
- Adam Savage, Mythbuster

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