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Baby Get Shaky!
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Topic # 146552 21-May-2014 17:48
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Gidday,

Let me preface this by saying this is my first attempt at cabling and quite possibly my last.

I've recently run Cat 6 UTP into 3 sets of double face plates in 2 rooms. I've spent the last 2 days trying to terminate these correctly but keep hitting a brick wall (figuratively, but getting close to physically). I purchased a set of double face plates/keystone jacks from TradeMe (after I was quoted $19 per keystone jack and $9 per face plate at Cory's) and attempted to terminate one end in those and the other end in RJ45 plugs. I was tossing up whether to terminate the other end in a patch panel but the 'boss' decided this wasn't a necessary expense. 

The problem I have faced is that of the several lines I've so far terminated at both ends, none are passing using a network tester. One skips every second light (so 1, 3, 5, and 7 light up), one lights up all bar 4, 8 and G while the other only lights up #5. I have re-terminated both ends multiple times each time taking care that each is correct (per T568B for RJ45 and per the B wiring diagram for the faceplate's). Each appears to be terminated correctly yet the results stay the same. The network tester I'm using (one of the cheapies that pop up on TM and deal sites) lights up correctly when used on a pre-made patch cable so I'm confident that's working correctly.

I'm hoping its not damage to the cabling itself. All these runs are less than 10 metres and go through the roof space in a straight line with plenty of slack. There are no sharp bends, each cable appears intact with no visible damage (I've inspected the length of each) and they came off of a manufacturers spindle.

Could this be a case of damaged cables or am I missing something?

Below is the rear of the face plates as it came:



Failing that is can anyone recommend someone in Christchurch who can come and do this properly or any local coffeebarons?

Thanks

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  Reply # 1050582 21-May-2014 17:56
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A few possibilities in random order:

1) Are you definitely using T568B at both ends, not T568B at one end and T568A at the other?

2) You should really maintain the twist in the pairs right up to the termination - a cheapie cable tester wouldn't pick this up, but it may result in interference at higher frequencies meaning transmission errors

3) Did you use stranded or solid cable? Are the plugs the right ones for the type of cable? If you mismatch stranded/solid, you could get intermittant connections.

4) What happens if you connect a network device - does it work?



Baby Get Shaky!
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  Reply # 1050586 21-May-2014 18:03
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RunningMan: A few possibilities in random order:

1) Are you definitely using T568B at both ends, not T568B at one end and T568A at the other? 


Yes most defiantly.

2) You should really maintain the twist in the pairs right up to the termination - a cheapie cable tester wouldn't pick this up, but it may result in interference at higher frequencies meaning transmission errors 


I'll give that a try.

3) Did you use stranded or solid cable? Are the plugs the right ones for the type of cable? If you mismatch stranded/solid, you could get intermittant connections.


Standard. I'm unsure if they are for standard or solid.

4) What happens if you connect a network device - does it work?


Have yet to try that but its my next step.


Thanks for your feedback!


 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 1050587 21-May-2014 18:05
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May sound stupid but exactly how are you testing the cable? Are you using cat6 RJ45 connectors?

While it won't be the cause of the issue, for reference you should ideally use 568A in NZ for standards compliance, and as mentioned above the termination isn't that great. Any benefits of cat6 could immediately be cancelled out because of the loss of twist introducing crosstalk.

The cheap cable testers on TM are actually useless as well - they can't detect an incorrectly wired pair unless you're looking at both ends at the same time.






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  Reply # 1050604 21-May-2014 18:55
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3) Did you use stranded or solid cable? Are the plugs the right ones for the type of cable? If you mismatch stranded/solid, you could get intermittant connections.

Standard. I'm unsure if they are for standard or solid.


This is key. Not standard but stranded. Stranded cable will be hit and miss when terminating on IDC's. The IDC cuts the strand rather than just the insulation. So if you aren't sure, strip back one of the pairs. It will either be a solid piece of copper, or stranded.

Check your cable tester by using just a patch cord between the units. Is it one with 8 LED's? or just 4? Quite often the 8 LED will actually blow the LED's.

Are those jacks tool-less? Or are you using a tool? If so, what kind of tool? Personally I wouldn't use any jacks that aren't either Dynamix, PDL or Molex (in order of price).

And as others have said, get the twist right up to the connectors.

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  Reply # 1050657 21-May-2014 20:20
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Terminate both ends in sockets. Make sure cable is solid core. Chuck out those sockets you have attempted with and start again with new ones. Dynamix will do the job. Use a punch down tool.





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  Reply # 1050671 21-May-2014 21:04
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I agree with the comments about brands of network gear to use. I tried to set up one brand of patch panel, thinking an IDC was an IDC. About 10% of my connections were faulty first time. Had to replace it with a Dynamix when the back panet came off due to a screw missing, and all but one wire was right first time.



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  Reply # 1050690 21-May-2014 21:28
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Thanks for all the comments.

The cable is solid core. I have a punch down tool and have been using that. I will buy some Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks tomorrow and replace all the current ones. All the reading up I have done indicated that T568B was the better standard to use over the two. I'll give it a try with T568A tomorrow. 

I've only used a cable tester (8 +1 (grounding) LEDs) but I'll switch to also using a computer to test the connection as well.

I think I'll jsut buy a patch panel tomorrow as well and forget wiring up RJ45 plugs, its how I originally wanted to do it.

Thanks all!

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  Reply # 1050698 21-May-2014 21:38
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You can use either standard, but AS/NZS standards say 568A is the "standard" (well recommendation really) for Australia and New Zealand.

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  Reply # 1050884 22-May-2014 10:12
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kingjj: Thanks for all the comments.

The cable is solid core. I have a punch down tool and have been using that. I will buy some Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks tomorrow and replace all the current ones. All the reading up I have done indicated that T568B was the better standard to use over the two. I'll give it a try with T568A tomorrow. 

I've only used a cable tester (8 +1 (grounding) LEDs) but I'll switch to also using a computer to test the connection as well.

I think I'll jsut buy a patch panel tomorrow as well and forget wiring up RJ45 plugs, its how I originally wanted to do it.

Thanks all!


Quick question, what kind of punch down tool are you using? (humour me :)   )

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  Reply # 1050888 22-May-2014 10:29
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Cat6 is a lot thicker (and harder to work with) than Cat5.
Make sure when you go and get new Sockets/Patch Panel that it is rated to work with Cat6 (Trying to crimp a Cat5 Plug onto Cat6 would be a pretty horrible experience).



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  Reply # 1050956 22-May-2014 11:40
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TechSol:
kingjj: Thanks for all the comments.

The cable is solid core. I have a punch down tool and have been using that. I will buy some Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks tomorrow and replace all the current ones. All the reading up I have done indicated that T568B was the better standard to use over the two. I'll give it a try with T568A tomorrow. 

I've only used a cable tester (8 +1 (grounding) LEDs) but I'll switch to also using a computer to test the connection as well.

I think I'll jsut buy a patch panel tomorrow as well and forget wiring up RJ45 plugs, its how I originally wanted to do it.

Thanks all!


Quick question, what kind of punch down tool are you using? (humour me :)   )


One similar to this one but not exactly the same.

I've now purchased Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks and a 12 port patch panel as well as new patch leads (instead of making my own). I've also removed all my previous handy work. Once the new gear arrives I'll wire it all up to T568A standards instead of B.

Cheers all

BTR

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  Reply # 1050958 22-May-2014 11:46
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kingjj:
TechSol:
kingjj: Thanks for all the comments.

The cable is solid core. I have a punch down tool and have been using that. I will buy some Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks tomorrow and replace all the current ones. All the reading up I have done indicated that T568B was the better standard to use over the two. I'll give it a try with T568A tomorrow. 

I've only used a cable tester (8 +1 (grounding) LEDs) but I'll switch to also using a computer to test the connection as well.

I think I'll jsut buy a patch panel tomorrow as well and forget wiring up RJ45 plugs, its how I originally wanted to do it.

Thanks all!


Quick question, what kind of punch down tool are you using? (humour me :)   )


One similar to this one but not exactly the same.

I've now purchased Dynamix face plates and keystone jacks and a 12 port patch panel as well as new patch leads (instead of making my own). I've also removed all my previous handy work. Once the new gear arrives I'll wire it all up to T568A standards instead of B.

Cheers all



How did you get on?

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  Reply # 1051251 22-May-2014 18:14
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That is the wrong tool! You want a 110 tool.....



Also, did you test your cable tester with a patch cord to check for blown LEDs?

As for 568A vs 568B it is a preference, in NZ we use 568A.

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  Reply # 1051265 22-May-2014 18:46
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chevrolux: That is the wrong tool! You want a 110 tool.....


You sure? I used one of those with both PDL and Dynamix connections, and had no issues.

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  Reply # 1051270 22-May-2014 19:06
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AndrewtheAmbo:
chevrolux: That is the wrong tool! You want a 110 tool.....


You sure? I used one of those with both PDL and Dynamix connections, and had no issues.


You may have had no issues but pretty much you were lucky. I know for certain that PDL & Dynamix RJ45 modules have 110 IDC's. Dynamix 24-port & 12-port patch panels have Krone IDC's.

They are very different. Krone will often spread a 110 IDC apart and bugger them.

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