UFB Router - What to use?

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Yorkshirekid

193 posts

Master Geek

#207320 19-Dec-2016 08:46

UFB was installed last week. I have read a bunch of threads but I can't find a definitive resolve as everyone seems to have a different need. The Slingshot router provided allows for wifi and a port for the phone, so I need this functionality in any replacement.

I need an upgrade router as the wifi in the house is now rubbish in some spots. My D6300 was much better. I'd use that again but there isn't a phone port on it. Chorus installers cut the copper as they said it was interfering with something. I'm happy to spend up to about $500 for a device that would suit. Thank you.

jnimmo

1097 posts

Uber Geek

#1692038 19-Dec-2016 08:52

Hi there,
You could just use your D6300 as a Wireless Access Point only - see this link:

http://kb.netgear.com/20927/How-do-I-change-my-NETGEAR-router-to-AP-mode-after-I-ve-already-run-setup

You probably need to use the Slingshot provided router if you have a phone service through the router from Slingshot

Make sure you turn off the wireless on the Slingshot router if you do use the D6300 for wireless

The reason I suggest this rather than a replacement is if you have any issues sometimes ISPs will ask you to swap it out for their supplied router

robjg63

4091 posts

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Subscriber

#1692047 19-Dec-2016 09:07

Its worth starting here http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=66&topicid=197871

Personally I would not make having a built in ATA port a priority - they seem to be of varying quality and not always that common - greatly restricts the routers you can look at.

I would suggest buy a good router and a good ATA.

A cisco SPA-112 (ATA for your phone) would cost <%$80 brand new - probably cheaper on trademe.

Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler

sbiddle

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#1692053 19-Dec-2016 09:24

robjg63:

Its worth starting here http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=66&topicid=197871

Personally I would not make having a built in ATA port a priority - they seem to be of varying quality and not always that common - greatly restricts the routers you can look at.

I would suggest buy a good router and a good ATA.

A cisco SPA-112 (ATA for your phone) would cost <%$80 brand new - probably cheaper on trademe.

It's then up to the OP to support and configure this. There are around 40 odd settings in a SPA112 to configure it correctly. Obviously this isn't going to be able to be auto provisioned and you'll also need to find out the SIP settings if Slingshot provide these.

robjg63

4091 posts

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Subscriber

#1692054 19-Dec-2016 09:29

sbiddle:

robjg63:

Its worth starting here http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=66&topicid=197871

Personally I would not make having a built in ATA port a priority - they seem to be of varying quality and not always that common - greatly restricts the routers you can look at.

I would suggest buy a good router and a good ATA.

A cisco SPA-112 (ATA for your phone) would cost <%$80 brand new - probably cheaper on trademe.

It's then up to the OP to support and configure this. There are around 40 odd settings in a SPA112 to configure it correctly. Obviously this isn't going to be able to be auto provisioned and you'll also need to find out the SIP settings if Slingshot provide these.

Then he will have to see what Slingshot can supply and supports - Or take the advice of @jnimmo

Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself - A. H. Weiler

robfish

683 posts

Ultimate Geek

Lifetime subscriber

#1692059 19-Dec-2016 09:43

When I realised that having naked broadband plus a VOIP service was quite a bit cheaper than the bundled (BB + VOIP) packages I bought an SPA-112.

As well as the cost savings it is portable (plug it in almost anywhere) and my VOIP service of choice offers heaps of great features for only $10 per month (+gst) including auto provisioning.

Rob

michaelmurfy

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#1692109 19-Dec-2016 11:34

In your case I'd suggest keeping your current router and going towards an access point. I'd say a good fit for you would be the UniFi AC-LR which is only $205+GST. You can then plug this into your current router and pump out better WiFi across the home (and expand it if neccessary by purchasing a 2nd AP and putting it on the other end of the house).

They're really easy to configure to the Cloud Controller and if you pre-arrange a session I can quickly remote in to your computer and adopt it to the controller for you.

Michael Murphy | https://murfy.nz
Referral Links: Quic Broadband (use R122101E7CV7Q for free setup)

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Spyware

3729 posts

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#1692113 19-Dec-2016 11:39

So two runs of cat5e for access points mounted in ceiling.

Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.

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linw

2843 posts

Uber Geek

#1692169 19-Dec-2016 13:00

Just do what jnimmo says. Maybe hang it off switch1 if this is in the right place. Heaps of us have an extra AP for good coverage and re-purposing your D6300 costs nothing.

Yorkshirekid

193 posts

Master Geek

#1692393 19-Dec-2016 20:20

Ok - so I repurposed the D6300 as jnimmo suggested. No joy. I followed the link and can do all as suggested but I wasn't clear on where to site it. I've been trying to figure out the best config for my new setup and have a post here.

As I want to use it as an AP I placed it on Switch 1 - as below..

But - this does not work as the AP can't find the internet. I then realised the D6300 needed to be on the Router (with the router wireless turned off), but I'm basically in the same position as the D6300 doesn't hit all spots in the house. It (or some device), needs to be placed at the front of the house - which is where the TV is; that general area.

I need another solution, I think? Is bridging an option (not that I actually know what this is)?

Spyware

3729 posts

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#1692417 19-Dec-2016 20:27

On the D6300 you would need to disable the DHCP server so that leases aren't granted that have the D6300 as the gateway. You can then connect it via its LAN interface to switch 1 (BUT not in configuration as above as switch 1 is obviously on a different network in your diagram as is connected to routers WAN interface).

And as stated previously, ceiling mounted access points, e.g., Ubiquiti, if you want full coverage.

jnimmo

1097 posts

Uber Geek

#1692509 19-Dec-2016 22:43

Looks like you've got the diagram sorted out in the other thread - that should fix things. You'll be able to plug in the D6300 anywhere (and also use it as an extra switch if necessary).

Key step that article I linked to probably doesn't mention too is setting the wireless name (SSID) and password (WPA2 key) the same as the other router, so your devices can switch between the two access points

linw

2843 posts

Uber Geek

#1692510 19-Dec-2016 22:45

You have changed the layout on us. Refer to layout 2b in your other post where switch1 comes from your router (two ethernet cables between wall ports).

You don't switch off wifi on the ISP router as the aim is to get you wifi x 2 coverage. But, like Spyware says, you do need to stop DHCP on the D6300.

I am assuming that the D6300 would cover the area that the TV is in and the ISP router would cover wifi where the PC is. I have a very similar network here, with a TP-Link router/AP behind the TV and the ISP router downstairs.

Yorkshirekid

193 posts

Master Geek

#1693213 21-Dec-2016 12:53

Thanks - no I have not switched the layouts. Yet :-)

Currently I have CONFIG 2. I am going to move to CONFIG 2b when I can get the second cable installed - this will be in the new year as all the techies are busy.

So, I'm currently looking to establish the old router as an AP and I've done this as described in the tutes (and on here), but it will not work with CONFIG 2.

Yes, I want the AP to cover the front of the house (TV area).

The trouble is it is going to have to hang off Switch 1 and so I'm back to my initial problem of NOT wanting a modem near the TV (aesthetics). So I'm considering the Ubiquiti solution and have come up with a new Config - 2c.

I am assuming I need a switch in the roof space as well as power. I don't have a power source there as yet.

Sorry if I'm making this all too complicated but I'm trying to resolve an issue and satisfy a need based upon the criteria I'm presented with.

Please chip in and let me know if I'm stuffing things up or not :-)

Thanks.

michaelmurfy

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#1693219 21-Dec-2016 13:06

Yep looks fine.

With the UniFi it is powered via PoE meaning you only need a single Ethernet cable running to it and don't need a switch or anything in its location - you don't even need power around the area. If you've got your own house then ceiling mounting this central in the house on the ceiling your best bet. Where are you based? If you're in Wellington I could potentially help out.

I like the UniFi solution only because it is expandable as your needs change - just disable WiFi on your router and you're away. My offer still stands if you're wanting assistance with configuring it over a remote connection (it is Christmas - I am giving).