My honest answer to that is none.

Putting a switch in a roof space is wrong for two primary reasons - one being that heat kills electronics and your roof space could easily get to 70+ degrees in summer. Secondly when above said switch fails you then have to climb into the roof. Cascading switches is also a recipe for disaster when it comes to network design.

Unless you need a managed switch IMHO a switch is a switch - there is very little difference between brands so I don't have any recommendations because a $20 unmanaged switch will do exactly the same as a $100 one and it comes down to finding something that meets your requirements when it comes to form factor and ports.

The problem i have is that i cannot draw cable to ceiling mount my wireless access point. The alternatives i have is split existing cabling in the roof and use a switch to extract a cable to use for the wap or wall mount the access point but the Ethernet jack is not in the ideal place.

t0ny:

 

The problem i have is that i cannot draw cable to ceiling mount my wireless access point. The alternatives i have is split existing cabling in the roof and use a switch to extract a cable to use for the wap or wall mount the access point but the Ethernet jack is not in the ideal place.

 

If there's cable in the roof space already I'd have though it would be possible to run more cables. Even if that means attaching a draw wire to an existing cable  and pulling it back then pulling two cables with the draw wire. 

some WAP's have 2 Ethernet connections...

Technofreak:

 

t0ny:

 

The problem i have is that i cannot draw cable to ceiling mount my wireless access point. The alternatives i have is split existing cabling in the roof and use a switch to extract a cable to use for the wap or wall mount the access point but the Ethernet jack is not in the ideal place.

 

 

If there's cable in the roof space already I'd have though it would be possible to run more cables. Even if that means attaching a draw wire to an existing cable  and pulling it back then pulling two cables with the draw wire. 

 

Been to a few callouts in my time as a domestic sparkie of people who thought they could just draw more up the wall and ended up with losing it in the middle..
 You need a lot of slack on the existing draw cable as you do not want and one end to go into the wall cavity as if it does you're buggered.

My home alarm is in the ceiling cavity, has been fine for a few years. I've had a $10 timer from bunnings up there a few years for something else, the screen failed recently but the rest was working.

Just buy a cheap one, put it up there, and maybe try to seal it in a box if it's dusty. Just accept it will die at some point and if it's critical keep a hot spare.

It will cook in the ceiling.

If you can use an AP with dual LAN ports (i.e. UniFi AC Pro) like Jase said is probably the tidiest option

Maybe get a switch that is powered by POE so you don't need to run a ppwer supply in the roof sapce