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Topic # 56933 28-Jan-2010 21:54
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As stated in the title we have a Dynalink RTA1320 modem hooked up to a wireless Belkin router.


The problem I'm having is that the Dynalink modem will disconnect without fail at a rate of about 1 disconnect per 10 minutes. It will then reconnect straight away. 


There's no problem with my ISP, I've checked that. Is it likely the router is fried? It's pretty old and the discolouration on the air vent on the top indicates this may be the case, but I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this and knows how to fix it.


I'm quite prepared to buy a new modem, if I have to. Any recommendations?


Cheers.

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  Reply # 294166 28-Jan-2010 22:20
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I've had a couple of these RTA1320 do this - if you read around you will find that this model is prone to overheating and in my experience the two units which I've had do this were not easily fixable. That being said the second one lasted me over a year (and was second hand to start with) and I found it to be very reliable and to give an excellent quality connection until it started failing.

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  Reply # 294178 28-Jan-2010 22:44
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What he said ^

If you are happy with the Belkin and just want to replace the modem part I'd look at these two:

DSE XH9949
http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/...

TP Link TD-8840
http://www.gearbot.co.nz/store.../

 
 
 
 


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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 294183 28-Jan-2010 22:54
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They are quite readily fixable if you're even remotely handy with a soldering iron - and can then be modded with a few simple parts to keep 'em cool & more reliable than when new from the factory.

Here's one of many threads on the topic: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/foru...

To summarise simply:
1) Open the modem up - couple of screws under the rubber feet.
2) Find any burnt out capacitors - they're usually pretty obviously bulging
3) Unsolder them from the circuit board and get some replacements from Jaycar et al. When I bought mine, the guy asked me if they were for an RTA1320 - yes, the problem is that well known, apparently.
4) Solder on new caps & test drive modem
5) To keep it cool fit a couple of mini heatsinks (again from Jaycar) and if you're feeling more keen, a little 9v cooling fan.

My RTA1320, which had been showing your exact symptoms, worked a treat after this, although I have since upgraded to a Draytek Vigor 110 modem which allows true PPPoA to PPPoE passthrough. If you're in the market for a new modem, you could consider a Draytek 120 (the updated model), which is a nice SOHO unit when combined with a separate router (such as the Linksys WRT54GL). Should also go well with your Belkin, but check the Belkin can do a PPPoE connection to really make best use of the Draytek.



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  Reply # 294201 28-Jan-2010 23:19
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sultanoswing: They are quite readily fixable if you're even remotely handy with a soldering iron - and can then be modded with a few simple parts to keep 'em cool & more reliable than when new from the factory.
Here's one of many threads on the topic: http://www.geekzone.co.nz/foru...
To summarise simply:
1) Open the modem up - couple of screws under the rubber feet.
2) Find any burnt out capacitors - they're usually pretty obviously bulging
3) Unsolder them from the circuit board and get some replacements from Jaycar et al. When I bought mine, the guy asked me if they were for an RTA1320 - yes, the problem is that well known, apparently.
4) Solder on new caps & test drive modem
5) To keep it cool fit a couple of mini heatsinks (again from Jaycar) and if you're feeling more keen, a little 9v cooling fan.
My RTA1320, which had been showing your exact symptoms, worked a treat after this, although I have since upgraded to a Draytek Vigor 110 modem which allows true PPPoA to PPPoE passthrough. If you're in the market for a new modem, you could consider a Draytek 120 (the updated model), which is a nice SOHO unit when combined with a separate router (such as the Linksys WRT54GL). Should also go well with your Belkin, but check the Belkin can do a PPPoE connection to really make best use of the Draytek.


Funnily enough I have fixed many items including DVD players, computers etc... which have had bulging capacitors - many of you may know about the stories about inferior capacitors with 'faulty' electrolytes a few years ago - BUT neither of my two RTA1320's which failed had ANY bulging capacitors and hence were not an easy fix!

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  Reply # 295032 31-Jan-2010 23:20
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Hi Does PPPoA to PPPoE give you a faster connection.. esp for gaming?

Tx
Dean

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  Reply # 295037 31-Jan-2010 23:31
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My RTA1320 starting doing constant disconnects recently.. Threw it into the bin. Dusted off my old d-link 502t and connected it... Problem solved.




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  Reply # 295042 31-Jan-2010 23:42
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Faster compared to what, what are you using currently?

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  Reply # 295045 31-Jan-2010 23:43
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Fingers crossed but my lucky RTA1320 is still going strong after 2 years. Bought it for $12 from trademe.




Do whatever you want to do man.

  

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  Reply # 295091 1-Feb-2010 08:56
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attewell: Hi Does PPPoA to PPPoE give you a faster connection.. esp for gaming?

Tx
Dean


I don't 'net game, so haven't checked it out...but I haven't had any disconnects or connection problems whatsoever with the Draytek - it's been rock solid for months. Line sync is around 18000 and other stats are good (can't access it directly right now - the one disadvantage with this setup!) - mind you, it's no better than the performanace I was getting from my repaired RTA1320.

The engineer in me likes the PPPoA->PPPoE pass through, with the router (WRT54GS) performing the connection directily with the ISP without running multiple NAT's or DHCP server hacks. It's just more, how do you say, elegant. I'm not sure whether in theory that would shave a few ms from latencies.

Some advantages of this approach:


  • To setup stronger NAT than that provided by modem/routers.

  • to avoid double NAT - NAT's bad enough without doing it twice

  • to have better control over port forwarding, VPNs etc

  • If you want to do IP accounting, captive portal, etc

  • filtering and NAT can be done on a real PC instead of a cheap slow modem router that we'd like to handle as little processing as possible.


Some more info here: http://www.wlug.org.nz/Half%20bridge%20with%20PPPoA

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 295109 1-Feb-2010 09:53
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Thanks.. are there any routers that have N wireless.. that are good to use instead of the WRT54GS

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  Reply # 295148 1-Feb-2010 11:46
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attewell: Thanks.. are there any routers that have N wireless.. that are good to use instead of the WRT54GS


You should be able to find an open-source capable 'n' router from this list:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices

Open-source firmware (e.g. DD-WRT, tomato) is great - you're not locked into a current feature set at the whim of the manufacturer, hence you get FAR more flexibility & security (at a small cost of needing to know what you're doing!).

Another option if you want to run the tomato firmware (which is installable on a smaller range of routers) would be to use a WRT54G capable of running tomato and adding a wireless 'n' router as the wireless access point. Thus, your setup would be: Internet > Draytek 120 > tomato-based router > wireless 'n' access point. In this setup, the Draytek is a pure modem (and a good one at that), the WRT54 with tomato provides the NAT & DHCP for wired clients and the wireless 'n' box simply pipes the 'net around your house.

This would be a flexible and powerful setup - but at the cost of three boxes.

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  Reply # 295171 1-Feb-2010 13:44
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can I just use a std Linksys Dual-Band Wireless-N Gigabit Router WRT320N? without DD-WRT,tomato?

or doesn't that have a good firewall etc?

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  Reply # 295195 1-Feb-2010 15:16
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attewell: can I just use a std Linksys Dual-Band Wireless-N Gigabit Router WRT320N? without DD-WRT,tomato?

or doesn't that have a good firewall etc?


Of course!! You can't use tomato firmware on that model, but dd-wrt you can - here's a thread: http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=49362&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=180

With either stock firmware, or dd-wrt it will do PPPoE connections (through your Draytek 120).

As noted above the dd-wrt is more flexible / powerful than stock firmware, but the stock firewall is OK.



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  Reply # 295218 1-Feb-2010 16:51
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Ended up going for a Dick Smith router, it is a lot bigger so should be able to handle cooling better.


Another question since my thread has been hijacked...is there a way I can massively increase download speeds on my connection? The max I can get is about 40 kb/s which is just lame and I'm sure it could be faster.


Thanks.

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  Reply # 295222 1-Feb-2010 17:14
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Jolive1: Ended up going for a Dick Smith router, it is a lot bigger so should be able to handle cooling better.

Another question since my thread has been hijacked...is there a way I can massively increase download speeds on my connection? The max I can get is about 40 kb/s which is just lame and I'm sure it could be faster.

Thanks.


Depending on which model you bought (prolly overpriced at DSE, but there you go) it may not last longer, even if it is larger / cooler. There's some real junk out there.

Sorry for the hijack, BTW...it just seemed to flow from the RTA1320 conversation :)

There are so many factors associated with a poor speeds that it would be beyond the scope of this thread to discuss fully, however....

1) I assume you're on ADSL, and if so, what is your supposed maximum from your ISP? Are you on an intentionally speed limited plan?

2) How far are you from the local exchange and / or cabinet.....ADSL speeds drop off markedly over a couple of kms from an exchange or cabinet.

3) Do you have old / crappy wiring in your house? Unfiltered phone lines? Posting some line statistics would help us work this out i.e. sync rates, signal-noise ratios, attenuation rates etc.: http://www.kitz.co.uk/adsl/linestats.htm

The slow speeds MAY have been (at least partially) due to a failing modem, so you may have solved the problem with your new purchase.

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