Home Wiring - upgrade details?

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Rob8

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Geek

#69892 14-Oct-2010 22:46

Hi, first time caller long time listener as they say.

I've just moved into an old 1920's villa that runs old school 3-wire phone jacks with all sorts of dodgey joins and junctions between them under the house - surprised phone and internet works at all!

So thought I would bite the bullet and rewire properly. But need some help on the specifcs. Based on my needs and reading forums here I think I want:

- 2 x RJ45 cables/ ports per room, 4 x lounge (all BT jacks replaced)
- 16-24 port patch panel
- ADSL2+/VDSL2 splitter
- 1-2 phone line in capable, that can accept an alarm system (the type that uses phone line to dial your mobile)
- Using HPM faceplates (with metalic covers) elsewhere in house
- Some sort of wall mounted rack/ cabinet (space at a premium so cabinet preferred)
- Sky dish and UHF cables for Freeview goes straight to lounge/ media centre so not sure I need to distribute further. Running Win7 Media Centre so could also push around rooms via ethernet I guess. Maybe leave room for this to be added?

Ideally rack/ cabinet with room to house:
- ASDL2+ Router incl. 4 port switch (current)
- upgrade to adsl2+/vdsl2 modem plus 4-8 port gigE switch (planned)

Not sure I need to wait for an SDP? Sigtech gear seems to get mentioned a bit? but after reading everything here my head starts hurting thinking about it.

Would appreciate advise on kit options/ retailers, and maybe an AKL (Central/North Shore) installer who can help out. Reasonably happy to do the grunt work for run the cable, but for the cabinet wiring it is clear to me that I need some expert guidance.

Appreciate your thoughts?

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236 posts

Master Geek

#392063 15-Oct-2010 07:06

I have a few Sigtech bits and pieces. (Really amping myself up to get under the house to run my ethernet cable this weekend)

parts list:

- ST2206 - SIGNET Telephone Hub (RJ45, 2-Line in with DSL mounting, Patch to xDSL Router, Security Interface)
- ST555 - VDSL2 Splitter / Filter
- ST2000 - Cabinet to put it all in

- TL-SG1024 - 24 Port Switch
- TD-8840 - ADSL2 Router
- TL-WA901ND - 300Mbps Wireless N Access Point (going to get another for the other end of the house's coverage)

Then I have a 24port patch panel that I had previously

You would probably want http://www.sigtech.co.nz/webapps/site/72000/105425/shopping/shopping-view.html?pid=314862

And grab your own switch / router / AP

this is a slap in the face!

cyril7

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#392073 15-Oct-2010 08:05

Hi Rob, ShadyBro has given you the good oil, if you are doing a full cat5e/6 rewire then the SDP is the wrong thing for you, do as shady is doing.

ST2010 is what you want which is the basci box, lid and internal power socket, then add the ST2206 and ST555 filter to do phone duties, a 16 or 24port patch panel as appropriate and a ST2012PPB to mount it in the box, the rest should be obvious.

Cyril

Rob8

15 posts

Geek

#392508 16-Oct-2010 10:54

Hey thanks ShadyBro and Cyril for your advise. That all makes sense.

Who would you suggest getting the gear through? The Sigtech website looks to be for electrical trade only and doesn't list retailers?

Also any thoughts on a good installer in the central ak/north shore area who can help with the final assembly would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Rob

cyril7

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#392509 16-Oct-2010 10:56

Hi, you can get this gear from most wholesalers, Mastertrade, Corys, etc, othewise PM me and I can see what I can do.

Sorry dont know of any installers in the Auckland area.

Cyril

webwat

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#392518 16-Oct-2010 11:20

I can help with install in auckland if you need, and maybe get the bits from mastertrade while Im at it. Make sure you have ethernet to your media centre so you can share it, and extra ethernet to any potential locations for TV, wifi routers, cordless phones. Signet have a sound system too, but that might be taking it too far.

Time to find a new industry!

webwat

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#392519 16-Oct-2010 11:23

I would recommend the biggest wall cabinet you can find so you can add more stuff later. Clipsal ones are bigger and tidier compared to the small Signet cabinets, but sometimes compact is good if you don't expect future expansions.

Time to find a new industry!

cyril7

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#392522 16-Oct-2010 11:37

I have always installed the ST2010, however of late I have started using the ST3060 which is 250mm taller and makes it a bit easier to fit everything in especially if you want to take the RG6 to it.

The ST2010 is 350mm wide (to fit 400mm studs) and 500mm high, and 80mm deep, the ST3060 is the same but 750mm high, this also meets the new TCF guide for FTTH installs, the extra room for mounting the ONT and its PSU.

Cyril

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webwat

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#392563 16-Oct-2010 13:03

Hmm the wholesalers dont seem to stock that one or even know about it, even when I asked 2 different ones if signet have a bigger cabinet. Have you tried the clipsal with side mounted 24 port patch panel?

Time to find a new industry!

cyril7

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#392565 16-Oct-2010 13:05

Pretty much all this type of stuff is not held in stock and has to be ordered on indent, typically turns up the next morning.

Cyril

webwat

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#392568 16-Oct-2010 13:13

BTW: signet cabinet has lots of holes for tiedown of non-signet gear (and especially cable) if you don't mind seeing cables running to all the modules. I have to say i don't like idea of a voice module without RJ45 jacks, patch panel doesnt cost much extra.

Time to find a new industry!

cyril7

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#392575 16-Oct-2010 13:33

I have to say i don't like idea of a voice module without RJ45 jacks,

Which panel are you refering to.

Cyril

webwat

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#392675 16-Oct-2010 18:50

most of the voice modules I have seen across various manufacturers are punchdown with onlly 1 or two RJ45 port for connecting to an ATA or similar, and maybe RJ31X for the alarm.

Time to find a new industry!

cyril7

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#392678 16-Oct-2010 18:58

Hi, I recommend and designed the ST2206, which is IDC for primary line termination (including the security loop) and RJ45 for all interconnect.

http://www.sigtech.co.nz/uploads/72000/files/ST2206_Installation_instructions__A4_.pdf

I recommend that if you want to connect an ATA to it (with a naked DSL), then punch the inbound line to the DSL(orange port with no filter fitted) and jumper the Line1 In to the Ph(Blue) IDC header, then plug the ATA into the Line1 test port and the modem into the DSL socket. If you are on FTTH then forget the DSL part.

Cyril

webwat

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#392727 16-Oct-2010 21:09

Oh thats better than I thought, I must have seen some other one last time I looked for the signet. I notice the DSL outlet is an unlabeled port in the middle, with no space for a label, and alarm is IDC as well as incoming lines. Average users need to be able to see where to plug the ADSL modem easily, though your instructions have clarified what to do with the master filter quite well.

I presume the alarm IDC is filtered, but otherwise looks like a nice standard patch panel commoned with a hidden jumper. I am a bit confused about whether the "Line 2 test" outlet is actually a test-disconnect since I can't see any plug for it. I wonder if an outlet wired as RJ31X would be better for the test disconnect, and would double as alarm outlet. With no alarm it would just need a loopback plug, probably tied on to avoid getting lost.

Time to find a new industry!

cyril7

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#392775 17-Oct-2010 08:51

Hi, yes it was a loss in translation with the asian factory that the DSL label is not clear, I understand future batch's will fix this. Yes the Alarm loop is post the filter (ie directly after the phone port of the filter as it should be), if no alarm panel is present then a wired jumper must be made.

Yes an RJ31X is possibly a good idea, but in reality when used you find a cludge of a solution with guys using screw terminals or scotchlocs convert from RJ plug linecord to a cat5e cable running to the security panel, where as an IDC is a simple clean solution as a cat5e to the security panel is normally deployed.

Line2 is only supported in a minimal manner, most domestics never use it, or if they do its for a fax line or only needed to be delivered to one TO. Interestingly most folk who use it acutally use the test port to patch, as this delivers line2 on pair1(pins4/5) where as the standard patch sockets deliver it on pair2(pins3/6) which means a special line cord is needed to access line2. To test line2 you need to simply pull all the patch cords going to the phone module, this then only leaves the ST2206 across line2 so its a partial test only, but will normally eliminate house wiring issues.

Cyril

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