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bugalugs

6 posts

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#92683 3-Nov-2011 22:43
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Or is their time passing?

I have to replace my modem but it appears the industry has moved on and now mostly produces modem/routers. But I already have a NetCom NP802n router which appears to be working OK. What would be the technical pitfalls of running say a Netcomn NB6PLUS4 ADSL/2/2+ (by Ethernet) just as the modem and the NP802n continuing as the router. (1st pitfall would be a bigger hole in my wallet)

 Would I need to disable any router configuration of the NB6PLUS4 so that it didn’t interfere with the existing network.

 Not into gaming or intensive activities and the only wireless use so far is to a printer, although I am considering getting into pushing downloaded video/TV through to the TV in the next room.

 I know it’s an expensive way to buy a modem but when the 802n eventually karks it I’ve already got the replacement sitting there.

 Or is it all a silly idea and I should just biff the 802n.

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Linuxluver
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  #540962 3-Nov-2011 23:08
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bugalugs: Or is their time passing?

I have to replace my modem but it appears the industry has moved on and now mostly produces modem/routers. But I already have a NetCom NP802n router which appears to be working OK. What would be the technical pitfalls of running say a Netcomn NB6PLUS4 ADSL/2/2+ (by Ethernet) just as the modem and the NP802n continuing as the router. (1st pitfall would be a bigger hole in my wallet)

 Would I need to disable any router configuration of the NB6PLUS4 so that it didn’t interfere with the existing network.

 Not into gaming or intensive activities and the only wireless use so far is to a printer, although I am considering getting into pushing downloaded video/TV through to the TV in the next room.

 I know it’s an expensive way to buy a modem but when the 802n eventually karks it I’ve already got the replacement sitting there.

 Or is it all a silly idea and I should just biff the 802n.


If you're going to buy a new Netcomm mmodem/router, then retire the old one.

I have a NB6PLUS4 ADSL/2/2+ and I'm very happy with t after a 3-year-long string of flakey DLINK (x 3 - fine until each just died), TP Link (x 2 - they degrade in performance in a week or so) and Linksys (x 2 'toilet cushion' models - just rubbish, end to end - AVOID!) gear. These others all worked....but they needed constant power cycling to recover from.....oh I don't know...whatever it was made then slow down and stay slow until power cycled. 

The Netcomm runs for months. No issues. 




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Oldhat
180 posts

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  #540983 4-Nov-2011 00:32
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A very good modem would be a Vigor 120.

These are able to be connected in PPPoA passthrough mode which means the authentication is done by your router using PPPoE. I have been using this modem for approximately 12 months now and have had no issues whatsoever.

Not the cheapest device though.

theEd
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  #541013 4-Nov-2011 07:29
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Oldhat: These are able to be connected in PPPoA passthrough mode which means the authentication is done by your router using PPPoE. I have been using this modem for approximately 12 months now and have had no issues whatsoever.


Yep. While the Vigor120 is a modem/router, turning on passthrough mode causes it to act like a modem, providing the downstream router with the Public IP and disabling NAT/Firewall functionality completely (not just a DMZ), with the added benefit of allowing the router direct access to authenticate and control the connect/disconnect.



Zeon
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  #541032 4-Nov-2011 08:54
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Oldhat: A very good modem would be a Vigor 120.

These are able to be connected in PPPoA passthrough mode which means the authentication is done by your router using PPPoE. I have been using this modem for approximately 12 months now and have had no issues whatsoever.

Not the cheapest device though.


You definitely should go for a vigor 120 in bridge (passthrough) mode. 




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shrub
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  #541095 4-Nov-2011 11:39
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+1 for vigor 120 in pppoe pass through mode

Ragnor
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  #541170 4-Nov-2011 14:38
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Draytek Vigor 120 ~$120

TP Link TD 8840 ~$60


theEd
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  #541233 4-Nov-2011 16:44
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You obviously shop somewhere very expensive Ragnor, they're $93 at MightyApe Tongue Out

Nothing wrong with the TP-Link option, but from what I read it's only half-bridging. Which is fine, but I prefer to have control of the PPP connection within the router, it's one less device to have to manage.

As with anything, different products work better for different scenarios, and it depends whether your focus is on price or quality.



bugalugs

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  #541448 5-Nov-2011 13:50
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Thanks for the helpful replies.

Looks like I’m going to be a new Vigor 120 owner.Cool
The old DSL 502T of at least 5 years usage has been taking too many ‘short breaks’  Cry   and while a combined modem/router (for about the same price) sounded great I was having trouble getting my head around putting the existing router up in the cupboard with all the other gear, that still worked perfectly.  

Spyware
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  #541451 5-Nov-2011 14:14
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502T is a router so given you've been double natting up till now then just continue.




Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


Ragnor
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  #541492 5-Nov-2011 18:04
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theEd: You obviously shop somewhere very expensive Ragnor, they're $93 at MightyApe Tongue Out



Fair point, looks like there was a decent price drop a couple of months ago
http://pricespy.co.nz/product.php?pu=464899

 

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