Programming Arrowhead Alarm (Elite S Lite)

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Regiiko

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#309418 17-Oct-2023 16:56

Hi all,

I've got an Arrowhead Elite S Lite that seems to be exactly the same as this user on Reddit. that I'd like to integrate with a Konnected Interface Kit.

I've managed to find a copy of the installation manual floating around the internet but I'm having a bit of trouble parsing it...

A geekzone user posted back in 2014 hinting that it was possible to program the inputs/outputs to do what I'd like to do but I don't know if they're still around.

What I'd like to figure out is how to program the damn thing to do the following:

reconfigure the output (3 & 4) to output the following statuses: arm/disarm (is the alarm armed or disarmed?) & activation (is the alarm going off?)
reconfigure the tamper input to arm/disarm the alarm.

If anyone has done this, or knows how to do this, some help would be great! If not, I'll keep glaring at the alarm system until the heat death of the universe.

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#3148499 17-Oct-2023 17:20

looks like there are output options (see above)

found these

Looks like you can map a area arm to an output

as for disarming

not sure off the top of my head where the keyswitch input is, I can't see anything about reassigning the tamper input to anything else.

Regiiko

27 posts

Geek
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#3148518 17-Oct-2023 19:32

not sure off the top of my head where the keyswitch input is, I can't see anything about reassigning the tamper input to anything else.

Page 66 of the manual (linked in the first post) has this to say about the tamper input:

The two Key-Switch inputs are available on the panel tamper. Normally the panel tamper is a single 2k2 EOL resistor, however if the tamper input is wired as per the type 14 option shown on page 5, the 4k7 resistor becomes Key-switch number 1 and the 8k2 resistor becomes Key-switch number 2 (the 2k2 still acts as the tamper resistor). If the tamper input is shorted out or cut the panel will still go into system tamper alarm but provided the 2k2 resistor is maintained then shorting or opening the 4k7 or 8k2 resistors will operate the key-switch functions.

I’m still really confused by this entire system, unfortunately.

mentalinc

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#3148579 17-Oct-2023 21:46

There is an IP-Module you can purchase and flash with a particular firmware (need an FTDI to do it) to get it working in Home Assistant for example: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/custom-component-crow-runner-arrowhead-aap-8-16-alarm-ip-module/130588

Suggest you use the tools (ULD16) from the screenshots above first to get the Installer code - without that, I think you're kinda stuck.

I've recently followed that thread and got the desired result of being able to be notified when the alarm goes off, reset and activate, monitor zones etc etc.

Arrowhead = Crow alarms

The cost of the official module (and IP Loom) was well worth cutting down the effort, and hacking stuff together too much, or damaging the alarm- https://www.aap.co.nz/shop/Alarm+Systems/Modules/IP-MODULE.html

There is also an option to just subscribe to their cloud service (elitecloud).

I guess finally Arrowhead is a NZ company based in Silverdale in Auckland.

Hopefully you don't already have the Konnected Alarm yet...

Toward the bottom of the thread above looks to be an ESP version (I've not used it and looks rather new (less than a month old), but would be an even cheaper entry..

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Regiiko

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#3151154 22-Oct-2023 21:18

Is there a way to access the installer code without having the IP expansion? I do have a FTDI 3V3 serial programmer lying around.

mentalinc

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#3151163 22-Oct-2023 22:00

You can probably try connecting to the PC connection below, and the ULD16 app (https://www.aap.co.nz/QuickPage/ULD16.html) to connect to the comm port of the FTDI - https://www.aap.co.nz/site/aap/files/pdfs/Elite%20S%20ULD%20for%20IP.pdf

Check this thread https://community.home-assistant.io/t/custom-component-crow-runner-arrowhead-aap-8-16-alarm-ip-module/130588 and you might find the pin out, but from memory only had the Ip-module.. You are basically replacing the DLINK cable with the FTDI instead.

Not sure if it will work, may perm kill your alarm etc

Once you get ULD16 working and connect - navigate Miscellaneous -> Installer options -> installed code will be in the box on the right

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Regiiko

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#3151358 23-Oct-2023 10:49

Someone on the HA forums has said they've bricked their alarm panel by doing that, so understandably, I'm *very* hesitant to try that!

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mentalinc

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#3151943 25-Oct-2023 06:51

I guess that leaves going back to the IP module to get the installer code (still likely to be cheaper than paying someone to come and look at it).

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technician14

122 posts

Master Geek
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#3152223 25-Oct-2023 20:30

You can access installer programming without a installer code, by turn off the system then back on then go to kp and push program and enter within a few seconds

phrozenpenguin

868 posts

Ultimate Geek
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#3152250 25-Oct-2023 22:09

Some of this may be covered but what is the end state you are aiming for?

If it is piping this data into Home Assistant then it would be much easier (and cheaper) to get the IP panel, the programming cable, the "local" firmware and set that up, and then use the Home Assistant custom component to get the data.

I've used the serial cable and node-red as another option, and then replaced it with the IP panel when it was available.

DataBitz

37 posts

Geek
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#3161196 19-Nov-2023 15:35

Regiiko:

not sure off the top of my head where the keyswitch input is, I can't see anything about reassigning the tamper input to anything else.

Page 66 of the manual (linked in the first post) has this to say about the tamper input:

The two Key-Switch inputs are available on the panel tamper. Normally the panel tamper is a single 2k2 EOL resistor, however if the tamper input is wired as per the type 14 option shown on page 5, the 4k7 resistor becomes Key-switch number 1 and the 8k2 resistor becomes Key-switch number 2 (the 2k2 still acts as the tamper resistor). If the tamper input is shorted out or cut the panel will still go into system tamper alarm but provided the 2k2 resistor is maintained then shorting or opening the 4k7 or 8k2 resistors will operate the key-switch functions.

I’m still really confused by this entire system, unfortunately.

I got this working yesterday using the tamper input and key switch to control the arm/disarm of the alarm via the Konnected.
Note I'm just a DIY'er so no qualifications and this could we be wrong but it worked for me. Hope it helps.

Got the resistors from Jaycar.
4.7k Ohm 0.5 Watt Metal Film Resistors - Pack of 8 | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand
8.2k Ohm 0.5 Watt Metal Film Resistors - Pack of 8 | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand
2.2k Ohm 0.5 Watt Metal Film Resistors - Pack of 8 | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand

Configured the alarm to allow control via key switch

P112E 1E
Enable options to allow Keyswitch 1 to Arm/Disarm

P25E 10E
Enable Panel Tamper is 2k2 EOL

roderickh

221 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 63

#3177650 4-Jan-2024 15:43

DataBitz:

I got this working yesterday using the tamper input and key switch to control the arm/disarm of the alarm via the Konnected.
Note I'm just a DIY'er so no qualifications and this could we be wrong but it worked for me. Hope it helps.

Just reviving this thread a bit - I have a elite s v908.12b alarm with 4 zones (currently using 1 piggybacked to have 5 zones). Tried pairing it with a konnected interface kit, but for the life of me just haven't succeded - do you mind sharing your wiring (a photo maybe?). Really close to just selling this interface kit and opting for something else. tyvm!

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Anjana

3 posts

Wannabe Geek

#3258465 11-Jul-2024 14:56

I'm in the same boat.

I even created a ticket with Konnected, but they are not helpful.

Has anyone found a working solution? Or do I have to throw this Konnected gear into the garbage?

Anjana

3 posts

Wannabe Geek

#3258467 11-Jul-2024 14:59

roderickh:

DataBitz:

I got this working yesterday using the tamper input and key switch to control the arm/disarm of the alarm via the Konnected.
Note I'm just a DIY'er so no qualifications and this could we be wrong but it worked for me. Hope it helps.

Just reviving this thread a bit - I have a elite s v908.12b alarm with 4 zones (currently using 1 piggybacked to have 5 zones). Tried pairing it with a konnected interface kit, but for the life of me just haven't succeded - do you mind sharing your wiring (a photo maybe?). Really close to just selling this interface kit and opting for something else. tyvm!

Any of you guys know what are the Programable outputs Konnected is talking about?? I cann't find like that in our board..