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Tones303

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#273052 1-Aug-2020 16:01
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Hello,

 

Ultimately, I am wanting highest quality signal of Sky and Freeview into my home RF distribution system for consumption at all outlets. 

 

 

 

I have 2 questions.

 

Firstly, I have Freeview terrestrial coming in via the antenna. The TV senses and picks up the signal, stores the channels. The TV1, TV2, Duke etc channels and their associated plus 1's will only work on very clear and calm days without pixelation. The other Freeview channels are OK rain hail or shine.

 

I understand this is potentially because of one set of channels are on a different frequency and consequently some work better than others?

 

I assume the signals are being sent from the same source (I am in rural Hamilton, so I am guessing Mt Te Aroha is the source). In the summer when there are leaves on the trees between the aerial and Mt TA we see degredation, in the winter we see a more consistent reliable result.

 

Any advice? Masthead amplification? (I am unsure if I have any). Raising the aerial? already 6 meters above ground, potentially difficult to increase easily.

 

Secondly, I have My Sky HDi decoder. Getting the signal to the RF modulator via scart, the freeview goes through the modulator also, then signal boosted to be the distributed to RF network. 

 

I bought an HDMI to DVB-T modulator (HDEX0011M1 https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ASK-HDEX0011M1-HDMI-to-RF-Coaxial_62040362777.html) to replace the scart for Sky with the idea that it will be able to send 1080i through the house.

 

I couldn't get it working via the network, so I decided to go simply direct to the TV. Disconnected scart, plugged in HDMI to the modulator, RG6 out of modulator to TV antennae port, power on, re-tuned TV, got 1 channel as expected, signal said encrypted!!! and nothing on screen. 

 

There is a FAQ with the modulator stating to "confirm the signal source contains HDCP key" What is that? I that why I have the signal encrypted at the TV?

 

In the second decade of the 21st century I find it difficult we are still dealing with 60 year old co-axial wiring systems. What options are there to just bundle Freeview and Sky HD content into a digital signal and consume via Wifi or Cat 5e/6 network cabling?

 

Thanks for ideas...

 

Attached is the current wiring config. (Note red cable as an easy improvement I have made as the splitter was superfluous).

 

 

Cheers

 

Tony

 

 


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Spyware
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  #2532800 1-Aug-2020 16:45
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Voda TV Gen2.





Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.




shanes
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  #2532820 1-Aug-2020 17:35
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In simple terms, HDCP is a copy protection technology designed to prevent copying, or re-transmitting the HDMI signal. If the DVB-T transmitter doesn't honor HDCP then it won't work.

 

You could possibly find something that strips the HDCP from the Sky HDMI outlet...

 

 

 

The Vodafone TV idea mentioned is a good one, I have a couple, you can have Freeview, Sky and Netflix all in one device, well one for each TV...

 

 

 

 


Starlith
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  #2532838 1-Aug-2020 19:19
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Someone already said it but you should seriously look into Vodafone TV, you can get Freeview and Sky piped through your internet connection to the box with no rain fade.




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  #2532851 1-Aug-2020 19:46
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Those modulators are generally sold to resellers in countries that care about things like HDCP so do not strip it, you need a nice HDMI splitter upstream of it to remove HDCP, then it will work fine for what you need.

 

The levels need to be checked with someone with a proper digital TV field strength meter on the antenna to see what it is like and they can make changes to get it right. Before that is done adding amplifiers to it will probably not help. Also if you're mixing in your own modulated source along side off air stuff they need to be level matched and checked that they dont have co-channel interference between them. That was easy to see in the analog days because you had lines over the signals when they interfered, but in digital it just makes it drop out. Those modulators are generally not that well filtered since they cover a whole band or 2 with their output, they cant put a filter to limit them to a single channel so there can be a suprising number of other channels they take out if the levels are not the same.





Richard rich.ms

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  #2532852 1-Aug-2020 19:48
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Also if you're feeding back into the wall plate you need to make sure that it isnt being combined back onto the feed coming into the place, that would cause a feedback loop. Even the coupling between crappy builder grade coax along long runs of it can couple enough signal across if you have a grunty distribution amplifier.





Richard rich.ms

Tones303

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  #2533159 2-Aug-2020 16:23
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Hi guys, 

 

Good feedback thanks.

 

The Vodafone TV thing is a great simplification it seems. Couple of draw backs, paying for Sky and then a multiroom charge, (I guess, yes, you can watch 2 sky channels on 2 TV's).

 

With the other options, mainly rich.ms ideas....

 

1. If I ditch my current modulator and replace it with https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/KVMLNK1071/LENKENG-LKV379P-DVB-T-HDMI-to-RF-Digital-Modulator then I will not need a "nice HDMI splitter upstream" as I assume the HDCP will be catered for in the unit.

 

If I was to get a "nice HDMI splitter upstream" which one would I buy? recommendations please. That would still leave me needing to combine 2 rf sources (aerial and converted HDMI) into my current modulator. 

 

Would this do? https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/ADPTAX1010/TRIAX-Satelite-Terrestrial-Combiner--Diplexer-VHFU

 

2. So the aerial signal strength.

 

Is a DVB-T meter like this https://www.jaycar.co.nz/digital-tv-signal-strength-meter/p/LT3332 OK enough? And is it also able to be used if I want to setup (at a different location) a DVB-S freeview signal or do I need another meter?

 

Thanks

 

Tony

 

 


 
 
 

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  #2533203 2-Aug-2020 16:52
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Tones303:

 

Hi guys, 

 

1. If I ditch my current modulator and replace it with https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/KVMLNK1071/LENKENG-LKV379P-DVB-T-HDMI-to-RF-Digital-Modulator then I will not need a "nice HDMI splitter upstream" as I assume the HDCP will be catered for in the unit.

 

If I was to get a "nice HDMI splitter upstream" which one would I buy? recommendations please. That would still leave me needing to combine 2 rf sources (aerial and converted HDMI) into my current modulator. 

 

Would this do? https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/ADPTAX1010/TRIAX-Satelite-Terrestrial-Combiner--Diplexer-VHFU

 

Tony

 

 

The diplexor combines UHF and L band from an LNB. You have no L band so not at all relevant to your solution.





Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


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  #2533205 2-Aug-2020 17:00
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Spyware:

 

Voda TV Gen2.

 

 

I wonder if Vodafone have clicked they have a very good general purpose solution here? it's small, runs easily on internet, is any network, and probably costs $10 to make. They should be pumping these out at $79 or free with their bb connections.





________

 

Antoniosk


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  #2533207 2-Aug-2020 17:03
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Now they just need to fix the frame rate bug. Like watching Spark Sport in the bad times.





Spark Max Fibre using Mikrotik CCR1009-8G-1S-1S+, CRS125-24G-1S, Unifi UAP, U6-Pro, UAP-AC-M-Pro, Apple TV 4K (2022), Apple TV 4K (2017), iPad Air 1st gen, iPad Air 4th gen, iPhone 13, SkyNZ3151 (the white box). If it doesn't move then it's data cabled.


MarkM536
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  #2533968 3-Aug-2020 19:03
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Spyware:

 

Tones303:

 

If I was to get a "nice HDMI splitter upstream" which one would I buy? recommendations please. That would still leave me needing to combine 2 rf sources (aerial and converted HDMI) into my current modulator. 

 

Would this do? https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/ADPTAX1010/TRIAX-Satelite-Terrestrial-Combiner--Diplexer-VHFU

 

 

The diplexor combines UHF and L band from an LNB. You have no L band so not at all relevant to your solution.

 

 

 

 

On the note of these 'combiners'. I'm in the same boat needing to combine my HDMI to DVB-T to the aerial system in my house. I'll do my own thread at some point.

 

Something relevant to this quote is what defines a 'combiner'?

 

I've found one thing on TradeMe that I think combines the Freeview frequency range: https://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/tvs/cables-aerials/listing-2725844159.htm?rsqid=7f7c2854c736417cb2285084fab79564-004 .

 

Otherwise this one caught my eye; A TradeMe action claims that this splitter can be used as a combiner? https://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/tvs/cables-aerials/listing-2718432996.htm?rsqid=4677fd2ff6c2471d87bc207e7086a242-004

 

 

 

An image with both products [once TradeMe links expire]:

 

 

 

 

Note: Links may not load as my account is recently made. 


Brunzy
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  #2534289 4-Aug-2020 10:25
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Pic ‘A’ is junk , and to be avoided.
B is a splitter , a combiner lets the wanted signals through and filters out the unwanted.
The splitter passes them all.

 
 
 

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webwat
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  #2573126 23-Sep-2020 23:30
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I had to split a UHF/Sat signal a while ago, and the multiswitch I used (which and enough gain built in to cancel out the loss caused by a normal splitter) also had a backfeed port. Pestered the matchmaster guy until he answered all my questions, and the backfeed is where you plug in the modulator. From memory anyway!





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