Replace backing board on a basketball hoop

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › Replace backing board on a basketball hoop - how thick?

duckDecoy

958 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 435

Subscriber

#324989 23-Jun-2026 10:02

The backing board smashed on our portable basketball hoop (similar to this). It is the square piece right behind the hoop opening. Behind the board is a metal frame so a new piece cannot be easily glued to the back to cover the hole, we tried but there was so little of the existing perspex/acrylic left that it simply got knocked out all the time. So we need to put a new piece of perspex (or whatever) over the front.

How thick should the bit of perspex we buy be? I see some 3mm pieces at Mitre10, will that be thick enough and not likely to break? Or do we need to go thicker.

Just in case someone suggests it, the bolts have rusted that connect the backing board to the upright pole so I don't want to buy a replacement or hunt one down on trademe as there's a possibility it won't come off.

wellygary

8983 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 5546

#3505391 23-Jun-2026 10:31

I'd go thicker

This place
https://www.atomik.co.nz/
sell varying thicknesses, something around 10mm looks like it will probably be BBall safe...
https://www.atomik.co.nz/category/acrylic-sheet-supply

nitro

792 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 348

#3505407 23-Jun-2026 11:29

3mm will not give you the same bounce for your bank shots. being an american sport, i think it's specified to be 1/2 inch thick. 10mm is the minimum i'd consider.

eracode

Smpl Mnmlst
9494 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6378

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#3505435 23-Jun-2026 12:35

duckDecoy:

The backing board smashed on our portable basketball hoop (similar to this). It is the square piece right behind the hoop opening. Behind the board is a metal frame so a new piece cannot be easily glued to the back to cover the hole, we tried but there was so little of the existing perspex/acrylic left that it simply got knocked out all the time. So we need to put a new piece of perspex (or whatever) over the front.

Not sure if you mean you need to replace just 'the square piece' or the whole rectangular backboard.

Are you planning to put the new acrylic over the front of the remnants of the old backboard or are you going to remove all the old acrylic?

How are you planning to attach the new acrylic?

It would be good if you could give more detail on what you plan/want to do.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Gordy7

gordy7
2011 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 505

ID Verified

Lifetime subscriber

#3505452 23-Jun-2026 13:34

I would use Lexan - Polycarbonate, a lot tougher than perspex.

Gordy

My first ever AM radio network connection was with a 1MHz AM crystal(OA91) radio receiver.

duckDecoy

958 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 435

Subscriber

#3505461 23-Jun-2026 14:04

eracode:

duckDecoy:

The backing board smashed on our portable basketball hoop (similar to this). It is the square piece right behind the hoop opening. Behind the board is a metal frame so a new piece cannot be easily glued to the back to cover the hole, we tried but there was so little of the existing perspex/acrylic left that it simply got knocked out all the time. So we need to put a new piece of perspex (or whatever) over the front.

Not sure if you mean you need to replace just 'the square piece' or the whole rectangular backboard.

Are you planning to put the new acrylic over the front of the remnants of the old backboard or are you going to remove all the old acrylic?

How are you planning to attach the new acrylic?

It would be good if you could give more detail on what you plan/want to do.

I am just going to glue an full new piece directly onto the existing backing board, with a cutout for where the hoop part is. Anywhere underneath the hoop won't matter if it's different thickness.

eracode

Smpl Mnmlst
9494 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6378

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#3505649 23-Jun-2026 20:59

It looks like the original backboard is clear acrylic. Are you thinking of using clear for the new back? You may not be too concerned about what it looks like but clear acrylic glued on, will probably look ugly.

How about using 12mm exterior plywood? Much easier to work with and can take a good paint finish. 12mm is a little thicker than the 10mm acrylic recommended above but 2mm may not be an issue. If it is an issue you could consider the 9mm version of this ply.

if using ply, you could screw or bolt it to the frame - with the heads countersunk into the surface of the ply - and the heads filled before painting (or not, depending on how fussy you are).

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Dell

Shop now for Dell laptops and other devices (affiliate link).

pdh

510 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 358

#3505669 24-Jun-2026 00:47

I'd agree that Lexan is much stiffer than any other plastic (and unbreakable) .

The downside of gluing the reinforcing sheet on to the front of the existing board - is that it changes the geometry of the backboard - hoop distance.
If nobody in your group plays with enough finesse for that to matter - then the 1/2" ply might be attractive.

If minimising distortion of the geometry _is_ important - then a thinner solution is better.
3mm Lexan probably won't break, but it may flex a bit where the existing backboard is broken - which will introduce unusual bounces.
Moving up through 4, 5 to 6mm Lexan would likely reduce any flex to near-zero.

So, if Steve Adams is likely to drop round to shoot a few hoops - you'll need to choose the lesser of the two evils.
A too-thick & close backboard or one that shimmys when it should push back.

eracode

Smpl Mnmlst
9494 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6378

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#3505682 24-Jun-2026 07:27

I think a good approach here would be to remove (if possible) all of the remaining existing backboard and attach the new one straight onto the frame This would minimise any significant increase in overall thickness which affects the in-play geometry and mechanics of the backboard - as pointed out above.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

duckDecoy

958 posts

Ultimate Geek
+1 received by user: 435

Subscriber

#3505751 24-Jun-2026 09:55

eracode:

I think a good approach here would be to remove (if possible) all of the remaining existing backboard and attach the new one straight onto the frame This would minimise any significant increase in overall thickness which affects the in-play geometry and mechanics of the backboard - as pointed out above.

I hadn't considered that, that could be a great idea

eracode

Smpl Mnmlst
9494 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6378

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#3505759 24-Jun-2026 10:56

IME sheet plastics can be tricky to cut and drill.

If you use ply, depending on DIY skills, it should be a very straightforward job to fix it to the frame. If you use stainless steel, countersink-head machine screws like the M6 shown below (but you'd need longer than those) and if you get the depth of the countersink right, the heads of the screws would sit flush with the surface of the ply. You could get by without even needing to fill and sand if you wanted.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.

Bung

6779 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2968

Subscriber

#3505790 24-Jun-2026 12:27

There appear to be replacements available for some brands. It would be worth checking whether DIY is worth it. Neither ply or plastic sheets are cheap.

HP

Shop now for HP laptops and other devices (affiliate link).

eracode

Smpl Mnmlst
9494 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6378

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#3505935 24-Jun-2026 21:09

Bung:

There appear to be replacements available for some brands. It would be worth checking whether DIY is worth it. Neither ply or plastic sheets are cheap.

My bet is that official replacements would be a hell of a lot more expensive than an $81 sheet of H3.2 12mm ply plus a few machine screws.

Sometimes I just sit and think. Other times I just sit.