New House build - Help needed

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#2492692 27-May-2020 12:17

33coupe: I did ask about thermally broken windows, came back at an estimated $14k.

I also heard back from one company about Ducted heat pump. $13k ducted, $16.5k with lossnay system.

Our upgrade to thermally broken throughout the entire house was less than $4.5K for a larger house than you're building. Did that $14K include a Low E upgrade as well, and if so what type?

Froglotion

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#2492760 27-May-2020 13:34

Something to keep in mind with thermally broken aluminium frames, is that for it to work, the window position will likely need to be moved. Most if not all cladding types have a ventilation gap between the cladding and the building wrapped frame. If any part of the internal half of the thermally broken frame is exposed to that cavity, then it seems pointless to me. You'd somehow have to seal the joinery so that the internal part of the frame isn't exposed to outside air. Was something an architect once explained to me. I was working on his house and he didn't go for that joinery for that reason. To get the full benefit, you'd need to work on that. If you don't, then it's likely money down the drain as the gains you get, will be eaten away by that overlooked detail.

Paul1977

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#2492856 27-May-2020 14:57

Froglotion:

Something to keep in mind with thermally broken aluminium frames, is that for it to work, the window position will likely need to be moved. Most if not all cladding types have a ventilation gap between the cladding and the building wrapped frame. If any part of the internal half of the thermally broken frame is exposed to that cavity, then it seems pointless to me. You'd somehow have to seal the joinery so that the internal part of the frame isn't exposed to outside air. Was something an architect once explained to me. I was working on his house and he didn't go for that joinery for that reason. To get the full benefit, you'd need to work on that. If you don't, then it's likely money down the drain as the gains you get, will be eaten away by that overlooked detail.

I know ideally they should be installed rebated to align with the thermal envelope of the building. We didn't do that as we didn't like the look, and it is fairly uncommon in NZ so we doubted the builders would be that familiar with doing it that way.

So ours were installed according to the specs, which isn't as thermally efficient as rebated, but is still better than not having thermally broken at all as I understand it. For $4.5K we were prepared to make that compromise, for the $14K the OP was quoted it might have been a different story.

33coupe

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#2514694 29-Jun-2020 18:15

Just a quick update, everything has been sent for consent. Approx 4 weeks before build starts.
Have decided on a ducted heatpump, quoted $12k for Daikin. They quoted the wifi for additional $630.

Does that sound right?

neb

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#2514695 29-Jun-2020 18:17

33coupe: Just a quick update, everything has been sent for consent. Approx 4 weeks before build starts.

If that's saying you expect to get the go-ahead within four weeks and you're applying in Auckland then imagine someone at the council laughing at you in the sinister manner of Josef Stalin just before he enslaved eastern Europe...

billgates

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#2514701 29-Jun-2020 18:28

@33coupe 4 weeks before the build starts is exactly 20 working days. 20 working days is most councils in NZ take to reply to consents. When they send a email back to your builder to query something on the plan then council's timer stops. You will be incredibly lucky if you get the consent approved in exactly 20 working days or less. If it is a builders plan that has not been modified heavily then you may have a chance as the council would have seen same spec house from same builder before and will approve it quickly otherwise welcome to paperwork hellhole.

Do whatever you want to do man.

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neb

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#2514703 29-Jun-2020 18:31

billgates:
@33coupe 4 weeks before the build starts is exactly 20 working days.

A cynical interpretation of the 20-working-day thing is that that's the time that the council guarantees it will never issue a consent quicker than.

Jase2985

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#2514711 29-Jun-2020 18:44

they are suppose to process it in 4 weeks if there are no RFI's

the clock stops when you get one though and its rare for it to go through without one.

Dingbatt

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#2514721 29-Jun-2020 19:03

33coupe: .....
Have decided on a ducted heatpump, quoted $12k for Daikin. They quoted the wifi for additional $630.

Does that sound right?

For the ducted heat pump, are you anticipating having it installed after the house is complete, or once it is weathertight (ie pre-lining). I’m just thinking how much easier an installation must be pre-lining, except maybe for the diffusers which are mounted in the ceiling gib. Depending on how detailed the installers plans are you may want to consider exactly where you want the diffusers in each room. I made sure ours weren’t directly over the beds or furniture as I didn’t want the airflow blowing directly onto us.
The wifi add on price seems pretty typical and would probably worth it if it has a half decent app associated, and will probably give you remote access. Our Fujitsu ducted system only has a solitary wired controller and Fujitsu don’t have an oem wifi module, so I’m having to investigate third party options. Those options are way more expensive than $630.

“We’ve arranged a society based on science and technology, in which nobody understands anything about science technology. Carl Sagan 1996

33coupe

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#2514946 30-Jun-2020 10:59

Thanks for the replies, and for crushing my spirit in regards to the build time frame......

haha just joking

Im thinking it would be cheaper to install while being built, but unsure about when. Hopefully the project manager & heatpump co will sort that side out. I am wanting the ducts to be in the corner of the room to avoid that, and for aesthetic reasons.

Thanks for the price, I had no idea. I'm sure someone in the past said $200 (and secretly hoping lol)

Paul1977

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#2515383 30-Jun-2020 23:31

33coupe:
Thanks for the replies, and for crushing my spirit in regards to the build time frame......

haha just joking

Im thinking it would be cheaper to install while being built, but unsure about when. Hopefully the project manager & heatpump co will sort that side out. I am wanting the ducts to be in the corner of the room to avoid that, and for aesthetic reasons.

Thanks for the price, I had no idea. I'm sure someone in the past said $200 (and secretly hoping lol)

Generally they’ll do the bulk of the ducted heat pump install around the same time as the electrical pre-wire and plumbing pre-pipe. This is after roof is on and windows are in, but before the batts go in.

The may need to come earlier to do the penetrations (these need to be done before any exterior cladding).

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sen8or

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#2515501 1-Jul-2020 08:57

The internal unit will need to be put up in the roof before the ceiling guys batten it for lining. They are big and bulky. Unless you have good attic access, it will be a nightmare to get in after (think - cut hole in ceiling to get it in).

nofam

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#2515506 1-Jul-2020 09:05

sen8or:

The internal unit will need to be put up in the roof before the ceiling guys batten it for lining. They are big and bulky. Unless you have good attic access, it will be a nightmare to get in after (think - cut hole in ceiling to get it in).

Good point. And do these ceiling units need extra fixing added to support the weight? Generally, deciding on placement for anything that comes through the ceiling gib in advance is a good idea, as the builder will have a plan of where he wants to the battens/rondo.

sen8or

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#2515527 1-Jul-2020 09:41

That will depend on the load bearing calcs for the roof trusses. Our builder did get asked by the council inspector the weight of the indoor units, I think they were about 40-50kgs each. He didn't think it would be an issue and said it would be easy enough to put in extra bracing if needed. I didn't hear anything further on it so can't say if it was needed or not.

nofam

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#2515529 1-Jul-2020 09:47

sen8or:

That will depend on the load bearing calcs for the roof trusses. Our builder did get asked by the council inspector the weight of the indoor units, I think they were about 40-50kgs each. He didn't think it would be an issue and said it would be easy enough to put in extra bracing if needed. I didn't hear anything further on it so can't say if it was needed or not.

Yeah, 40kg is nothing (assuming one per average sized room) - builders walking around on the bottom chords doesn't cause issues, so that's nothing. We got our builder to lay MDF around the trusses and wallplates above our garage to give us some storage space, and his comment was unless you were wanting to store car engines, standard trusses can support quite a bit of load.

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