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duckDecoy
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  #2515613 1-Jul-2020 11:38
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33coupe: They quoted the wifi for additional $630.

 

Each system will have its own cost, but I paid $250 for wifi for our Mitsubishi heat pump.  Was a single back to back unit though, not ducted to multiple outlets.




33coupe

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  #2526039 20-Jul-2020 14:53
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Thanks for the replies. Ive decided to go with ATL electrical, good price on Finance etc, seem really nice as well.

 

I was told by the builder that the consent was on course to come back friday just gone (im sure that is a week early), only to find the hadnt submitted the resource consent with the application as the house isnt 2m from the NE fence (this was already confirmed / included in building costs many months ago. Am pretty angry cos I think they were hoping the council didnt notice and builder would pocket the money). I did mention it, but was given a pretty lame excuse. 

 

Anyway, back to more fun stuff. I've tried to work out how much speaker cable I need. I have enough for the front three (existing 12awg from BJC), but will need more for the ceiling, surrounds & outdoor speakers.

 

I know it's going to be more than just adding the dimensions as may need to run around walls etc, but really hard to work out. As plenty have done it here, would someone be able to give an estimate please?

 

 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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  #2526055 20-Jul-2020 15:38
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i used just shy of 90m in my 6.6mx9m garage for 4 speakers

 

always over estimate and also leave long tails at each position




Froglotion
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  #2526065 20-Jul-2020 15:42
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Just measure it out off the plan, and add some extra to allow for changes as you go. I grabbed a 50m roll of Dynamix 14AWG wire for my place, ended up with some left over but it was reasonably priced anyway. (Tastech sourced).

 

Hope that isn't the final plan as most of the suggestions I made to improve things / fix problems before they arise haven't been changed lol.


neb

neb
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  #2526074 20-Jul-2020 15:51
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Froglotion:

Just measure it out off the plan, and add some extra to allow for changes as you go.

 

 

And, assuming you're running it inside the walls, leave about a metre extra looped inside the wall. At some point you're going to want to move/rewire/relocate something, and if you cut it off fairly close it'll be exactly 5cm too short for the redo, no matter how long or short the change is.

  #2526215 20-Jul-2020 20:26
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you will also need to work out where you are running it to avoid power cables, etc and also to abide by the rules for how big a hole you can out through a stud/knog/top plate etc.


33coupe

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  #2526473 21-Jul-2020 11:59
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Thanks for the replies. I think Ive overestimated at 72m, so may get 100m just in case. I'm not sure about power cables yet though, so I guess will have to double check with the sparky. 

 

 

 

@Froglotion nope not yet. I have asked about the gas cylinders & HW unit. Still havent decided on best position for master bed, so will check with sparky and try and ask for power in both places.

 

No room or budget for sink in separate toilet unfortunately. I will get an sensor soap dispenser (on the hunt for one)

 

The kitchen will be slightly smaller than the plan, plus there wont be a breakfast bar so there should be room for a couch (maybe two or a chair etc) in the main area.

 

 


 
 
 
 

Shop now on Samsung phones, tablets, TVs and more (affiliate link).
Froglotion
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  #2526491 21-Jul-2020 12:28
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Fair enough.

I'm actually surprised you can have a toilet these days without a proper means to wash hands.

TradeMe can be a good source for unused wiring. Don't buy the cheap China sourced stuff. But people often buy too much or don't do a project so you can get some deals. Could help save a few bucks.

33coupe

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  #2536612 8-Aug-2020 10:42
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Just a quick update, and additional questions sorry.

The building consent approval has been delayed because we're now waiting for the resource consent (house not 2m from fence as per covenant)
The builder didn't submit the resource consent at the same time as the building consent. I'm not sure if that's standard procedure but has caused extra time delay.

We're now waiting for neighbours approval (wasn't aware this would be the case). Bit concerned won't be built in time for Xmas.

Anyway back to the questions, I'm trying to plan /work out the networking and am a bit clueless.

Can someone give me an idea on how it all works please? All I know is the fibre ont will go in the comms enclosure, poss need a patch panel not quite sure tho

I have a Netgear d6400, can I still use this?

Pics of items, diagrams would be great if poss please

Sorry and thanks

cyril7
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  #2536625 8-Aug-2020 11:52
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Hi, not sure if the details of a network build have been discussed already, its a long thread :), anyway, I would recommend in the least an 28" (725mm) inwall cabinet in the garage, from the plan further up this page I assume its the red icon to the right as you entre the main tilt garage door.

 

As for outlets I would as a minimum have two at the AV gear location down low (ie behind the AV gear) in the lounge and one on the wall behind the TV, and allow at least one for each bedroom, purhaps two, I will discuss bedroom outlets latter. Also is there likely a bedroom that will also serve as an office, if so add two outlets for that purpose.

 

I would have two outlets installed in the ceiling space to feed ceiling mounted wireless access points, I suggest one is in the hallway midway between rooms 2 and 4, and one in the Family room toward the Lounge pretty much where the letter y in "Family" shows in the diagram.

 

If you intend to have a NAS or similar storage device, then I dont recommend it goes in the garage with the cabinet, purhaps think about an outlet in the top of the hall cupboard (labelled "Storage") where such a device could be placed, if you do that dont forget a power outlet.

 

As for bedroom outlets, wireless is the typical method to cover such rooms these days, and that is covered off with a hall ceiling WAP, but where a TV may go in each bedroom I recommend you have a cat6 network cable run along with an RG6 coax to feed the TV (and power of course). If you dont want to wall mount TVs in some rooms at this time, then purhaps have the data and coax terminated on a faceplate at normal low floor level (ie 250-300 off floor) at this time, same goes for power. If you decide to install a wall mounted TV in future then its an easy job to put high level faceplates in and pickup the cables in the wall at that time. This way in the meantime you can place a TV on a dresser or side table and feed it from the low level outlets.

 

Some thoughts to start with

 

Cyril


Froglotion
208 posts

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  #2537480 9-Aug-2020 22:10
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Google how to network a house. It's not hard, but pays to do research. Or just explain what you want to achieve to the electrician and have them do it.

I literally spent hours watching videos on how people network their houses. I then did my own. There is no shortcut. Either you do the homework so you understand how it all works. Or you get your electrician to do it.

Froglotion
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  #2537482 9-Aug-2020 22:14
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As for being in for Xmas, given how unorganised the builder seems to be, I wouldn't get your hopes up! My build took five months I think. Bigger house, but I was unofficially managing a lot of the build so made sure it stayed on track. Will be close though if they actually get into gear now.

33coupe

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  #2541256 14-Aug-2020 18:57
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Thanks for the tips, I tried lots of Google searches but a lot were American, older builds, bit hard to understand in writing.
I'll have a look at YouTube though.

Definitely won't be happening now. We're still waiting for the neighbours approval (been over a week now).
Not sure how it's fair there's no time limit for neighbour to reply. Should be 1 week notice or something, fail to reply will result in the build commencing.

Plus I've just measured their house, and technically they are under 2m from the fence. Only by a small amount but I am contemplating seeking advice on it, poss submit something to council.

What do you guys think?



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  #2541307 14-Aug-2020 19:31
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how do you know that the fence is on the boundary line?

 

im pretty sure you can be about 50mm out on the placement of the footing of a building.

 

why cant you make the house so it doesn't require resource consent?


Froglotion
208 posts

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  #2541383 14-Aug-2020 22:46
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Neighbour isn't your enemy, don't bring up the distance thing with anyone. If any stink is made you may find their decision is an easy one and to decline approval for your build. I assume it's the back of their house that you are too close? Just go have a casual conversation with them and see their thoughts. You have to live next to them so you may as well get along.


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