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33coupe: They quoted the wifi for additional $630.
Each system will have its own cost, but I paid $250 for wifi for our Mitsubishi heat pump. Was a single back to back unit though, not ducted to multiple outlets.
Thanks for the replies. Ive decided to go with ATL electrical, good price on Finance etc, seem really nice as well.
I was told by the builder that the consent was on course to come back friday just gone (im sure that is a week early), only to find the hadnt submitted the resource consent with the application as the house isnt 2m from the NE fence (this was already confirmed / included in building costs many months ago. Am pretty angry cos I think they were hoping the council didnt notice and builder would pocket the money). I did mention it, but was given a pretty lame excuse.
Anyway, back to more fun stuff. I've tried to work out how much speaker cable I need. I have enough for the front three (existing 12awg from BJC), but will need more for the ceiling, surrounds & outdoor speakers.
I know it's going to be more than just adding the dimensions as may need to run around walls etc, but really hard to work out. As plenty have done it here, would someone be able to give an estimate please?
Thanks
i used just shy of 90m in my 6.6mx9m garage for 4 speakers
always over estimate and also leave long tails at each position
Just measure it out off the plan, and add some extra to allow for changes as you go. I grabbed a 50m roll of Dynamix 14AWG wire for my place, ended up with some left over but it was reasonably priced anyway. (Tastech sourced).
Hope that isn't the final plan as most of the suggestions I made to improve things / fix problems before they arise haven't been changed lol.
Froglotion:Just measure it out off the plan, and add some extra to allow for changes as you go.
And, assuming you're running it inside the walls, leave about a metre extra looped inside the wall. At some point you're going to want to move/rewire/relocate something, and if you cut it off fairly close it'll be exactly 5cm too short for the redo, no matter how long or short the change is.
you will also need to work out where you are running it to avoid power cables, etc and also to abide by the rules for how big a hole you can out through a stud/knog/top plate etc.
Thanks for the replies. I think Ive overestimated at 72m, so may get 100m just in case. I'm not sure about power cables yet though, so I guess will have to double check with the sparky.
@Froglotion nope not yet. I have asked about the gas cylinders & HW unit. Still havent decided on best position for master bed, so will check with sparky and try and ask for power in both places.
No room or budget for sink in separate toilet unfortunately. I will get an sensor soap dispenser (on the hunt for one)
The kitchen will be slightly smaller than the plan, plus there wont be a breakfast bar so there should be room for a couch (maybe two or a chair etc) in the main area.
Hi, not sure if the details of a network build have been discussed already, its a long thread :), anyway, I would recommend in the least an 28" (725mm) inwall cabinet in the garage, from the plan further up this page I assume its the red icon to the right as you entre the main tilt garage door.
As for outlets I would as a minimum have two at the AV gear location down low (ie behind the AV gear) in the lounge and one on the wall behind the TV, and allow at least one for each bedroom, purhaps two, I will discuss bedroom outlets latter. Also is there likely a bedroom that will also serve as an office, if so add two outlets for that purpose.
I would have two outlets installed in the ceiling space to feed ceiling mounted wireless access points, I suggest one is in the hallway midway between rooms 2 and 4, and one in the Family room toward the Lounge pretty much where the letter y in "Family" shows in the diagram.
If you intend to have a NAS or similar storage device, then I dont recommend it goes in the garage with the cabinet, purhaps think about an outlet in the top of the hall cupboard (labelled "Storage") where such a device could be placed, if you do that dont forget a power outlet.
As for bedroom outlets, wireless is the typical method to cover such rooms these days, and that is covered off with a hall ceiling WAP, but where a TV may go in each bedroom I recommend you have a cat6 network cable run along with an RG6 coax to feed the TV (and power of course). If you dont want to wall mount TVs in some rooms at this time, then purhaps have the data and coax terminated on a faceplate at normal low floor level (ie 250-300 off floor) at this time, same goes for power. If you decide to install a wall mounted TV in future then its an easy job to put high level faceplates in and pickup the cables in the wall at that time. This way in the meantime you can place a TV on a dresser or side table and feed it from the low level outlets.
Some thoughts to start with
Cyril
how do you know that the fence is on the boundary line?
im pretty sure you can be about 50mm out on the placement of the footing of a building.
why cant you make the house so it doesn't require resource consent?
Neighbour isn't your enemy, don't bring up the distance thing with anyone. If any stink is made you may find their decision is an easy one and to decline approval for your build. I assume it's the back of their house that you are too close? Just go have a casual conversation with them and see their thoughts. You have to live next to them so you may as well get along.
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