New House build - Help needed

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › New House build - Help needed

1 | ... | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23

9075 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2499

ID Verified

Trusted

Subscriber

#2579145 4-Oct-2020 16:55

Hi, the rules in general to meet electrical safety is that ELV (ie Data/TV) cables and LV (230V) are run at least 50mm separated or separated by a durable barrier. That means when running vertically in a wall cavity the holes you drill in nogs and top plates are 50mm away from holes that carry power, therefore holding the cables apart by 50mm.

For interference mitigation you should try keep ELV and LV cables at least 300mm apart and I recommend give mechanical/electic devices such as heat pumps and fan systems at least 1m clearance, but these are just my recommendations.

It does worry me that if you are asking these fundamental questions purhaps you should not be running any cables, ..................... just saying.

Cyril

Froglotion

208 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 78

#2579328 5-Oct-2020 00:00

You'll want to put in flush boxes in the wall the same as the sparky is for power. Then run CAT6 / TV into it's own box above / beside / wherever you want them. They can then terminate it all at the end, fit faceplates to the boxes. There will be a minimum recommended distance from power if running it parallel. I don't know what that is off hand, google / your sparky may tell you. You'll want to run all of the CAT6 to a central place as it's easier to setup at the end. Mine sits in a cupboard in middle of house. What that means, is that my ISP router can sit in middle of house and connects directly to the switch that all of the other network runs to. Not all of my network points are connected in to the switch though as i'd run out of space. Easy to connect them later though if required. You don't need to worry about the subs looking symetrical, the lounge is small so one is going to be enough floor space taken up. Let alone two in that room. Just my opinion of course, but where my one sub sits does mean I can't have seating there. Having two would make that space situation even worse.

Froglotion

208 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 78

#2579329 5-Oct-2020 00:03

Probably also worth noting that terminating all of the CAT6 probably took me 2-3 times as long as running the cables. So you may find the saving dollar wise from running the cable yourself isn't actually that much. As you're still paying for the sparkies time to terminate it all. If you do go ahead though, if i'm not busy i'd be happy to pop out and give a bit of guidance when you're running it. Not a pro, just done it before so can try help you avoid pitfalls.

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2581731 9-Oct-2020 07:50

Thanks for the replies and info, good to know.

The comms cupboard will be in a hallway, so pretty central.
I believe it's $200 to terminate everything, if my keystones arrive in time though I can do it.

Thanks for the offer @froglotion , very kind of you. Wiring has been penciled in for the end of the month.

I'm thinking of wall mounting my tablet for ducted heatpump, Philips hue, music etc on a wall.
The sparky did say they can get power from the light switch, but as I've just found out it can be powered by Poe trying to work that out instead of additional elec cost.

I'm just not sure how to terminate it. Would you keystone it (recessed box), then get Ethernet to USB c adapter? Would want right angle c to hide cable a bit.

Thanks

Froglotion

208 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 78

#2582173 10-Oct-2020 07:39

Why would you wall mount it? I'd have thought mobility was an advantage. Change settings from couch etc. Just my 2c though.

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2582182 10-Oct-2020 08:30

Oh yep sorry that's what I want, have seen a magnetic mount that looks ok.

I'm just trying to figure out power /terminate it. Keystone, patch cable to Ethernet USB c adapter (then would want c adapter so that could use right angle c cable into tablet)? Seems like too many cables

Would need a big recessed wall box lol.

Mighty Ape

Shop now at Mighty Ape (affiliate link).

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2582302 10-Oct-2020 12:49

I'm also trying to find a way to make the subwoofer cable look tidy.

Are there any options/wall plates to run the cable straight from receiver to sub. The only thing I've found without terminating (don't want to do) is a brush plate but does seem s bit big for one cable.

I was wondering if the below would work (remove connector, run straight through), but the wall box isn't flush. Could I screw through the side of the box?

cyril7

9075 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 2499

ID Verified

Trusted

Subscriber

#2582316 10-Oct-2020 14:11

You can get the same in pdl600 series and you could get a single mech one and a 600 series mech blank and hack saw a slot just big enough to cover the cable.

Cyril

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2582396 10-Oct-2020 19:06

Ah thanks for that I'll have a look.

I think the biggest thing I'm struggling with is the Poe for the tablet. Just can't think of the best (easiest) way to do it.

Cat6 cable to location, then terminate RJ45, and get Poe to USB or USB C adapter?
Just wonder how would hold these in place etc (recessed wall box?)

Froglotion

208 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 78

#2582482 11-Oct-2020 08:51

For the sub I ran RCA keystones with RG6(pretty sure) TV cable between the locations.

Could just buy a dedicated tablet setup that is designed for wall mounting? I'm sure they exist.

Froglotion

208 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 78

#2582483 11-Oct-2020 09:08

Or buy a setup like this https://www.vidabox.com/kiosks_nz/vidamount-on-wall-tablet-mount-ipad-2-3-4-white.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOo2-KuMkBZSqT08W0wsjJwJm-xE-RHnbZJyzyDuu3csbwzD0PdEO3waAsbNEALw_wcB

HP

Shop now for HP laptops and other devices (affiliate link).

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2595746 31-Oct-2020 22:46

Thanks for the replies. Sparky has found and run for a recessed USB box. They've also done the wiring a week early!

I'm having a slight issue with the flush box /wall plate position. I wanted one central so that the speaker cables go straight into the receiver. But as pics show, currently not possible to be central (unless I can put some blocking in there)

How do others do it?
Thanks

wazzageek

1095 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 108

ID Verified

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#2595776 1-Nov-2020 00:27

33coupe: Thanks for the replies. Sparky has found and run for a recessed USB box. They've also done the wiring a week early!

I'm having a slight issue with the flush box /wall plate position. I wanted one central so that the speaker cables go straight into the receiver. But as pics show, currently not possible to be central (unless I can put some blocking in there)

Not 100% sure on what you mean by central, if you mean that you want those lower two center flush boxes moved to the right, I would throw a nog/dwang in (drill a hole through to feed the cabling). (Does it have to be in the center though?)

Your question about can you drill in the studs, I believe you can - I have seen reference to only allowing up to 25 mm diameter holes in load bearing top plates. (Disclaimer - I'm not a builder!)

33coupe

1025 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 75

ID Verified

#2595778 1-Nov-2020 00:54

Thanks for that.

Yeah I was thinking about the speaker cable being central to the room as that's where the receiver will be. If I put the flush box anywhere else the cables are going to come out and into receiver at a tight angle think would look terrible.

I think I'll add a nog/blocking and do some rearranging.
The sparky went through the stud so must be all good lol.

Jase2985

13735 posts

Uber Geek
+1 received by user: 6217

ID Verified

Lifetime subscriber

#2595790 1-Nov-2020 07:17

personally i would run the RG6? and Ethernet from the bottom box through the stud on the left and up that side to keep it away from the power cable above it.

You can also run the speaker cable low in the walls to where they need to go. and if you put a brush plate for the cables the angle can be made to not be that bad. plus youir not going to see it behind the receiver

also why so many studs? that's going to reduce the overall wall insulation value by a little bit.

1 | ... | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23