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Paul1977
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  #2424959 21-Feb-2020 11:45
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@BillGates are those attic trusses, or regular trusses that have just had flooring put down? I ask because of @nofam commenting on not being able to put anything too heavy up there.

 

The attic trusses in our place have 190mm top and bottom chords. I don't know what kPa they're rated to, but the look bloody strong compared to the standard trusses adjacent to them. Not that we can store anything up there that's overly heavy since we still need to it lift up through the hatch anyway.

 

The down side of our attic space is our roof isn't very high - so it will be more of a "hands and knees" operation, still worth having it for the extra storage though.




Paul1977
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  #2424963 21-Feb-2020 11:47
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sen8or:Its pretty much exactly how my room will be set out in our new house, marginally wider than yours (4m vs 3.8) but marginally shorter (4.4m vs 4.6).

 

 

Snap @sen8or. The media room going in our new build is 4.0m x 4.4m as well.


billgates
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  #2425001 21-Feb-2020 13:24
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@paul1977 those are attic trusses. We also had the option to line the walls in our attic but I decided against it due to saving $$$ and I can easily do this later myself by first insulating the walls and then lining it with MDF or plywood if required. We went with higher roof for multiple reasons. a) the look of the house from front to back looks great and b) we can walk in our roof without bending at all. The photo below shows part of our front showing the garage and office. The orange cables on the office and garage wall are the CAT6A I ran for IP cameras. Bricks will be painted white. The timber is Abodo and we decided not to stain it but did apply 3 coats of Sioo:x to protect against UV and weather damage.





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Paul1977
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  #2425012 21-Feb-2020 14:21
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billgates: @paul1977 those are attic trusses. We also had the option to line the walls in our attic but I decided against it due to saving $$$ and I can easily do this later myself by first insulating the walls and then lining it with MDF or plywood if required. We went with higher roof for multiple reasons. a) the look of the house from front to back looks great and b) we can walk in our roof without bending at all. The photo below shows part of our front showing the garage and office. The orange cables on the office and garage wall are the CAT6A I ran for IP cameras. Bricks will be painted white. The timber is Abodo and we decided not to stain it but did apply 3 coats of Sioo:x to protect against UV and weather damage.  

 

Nice. I don't think anyone older that 6 could walk in our attic without bending. One of the trade-offs for the exterior look we wanted. It'll be perfectly fine for extra storage, but we'll never be able to convert it into a loft!


33coupe

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  #2426351 24-Feb-2020 14:53
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@billgates, sorry for the basic question but what is a media master and where did you put yours?

In regards to cabling I'm still a little uncertain. So far I think I need:

Cat6 cables to video doorbell, plus 4 cameras around the house. 1 to each bedroom maybe

Also cat6 to both tvs, plus a/v receiver, PC.

HDMI 2.1 cable from receiver to tv in family room.

How would I go about running one from receiver to proposed projector? 10m ones are expensive, but i do need to run a cable to the ceiling for future.

Might just leave the tv in living room on its own and poss look at raspberry pi to make it smart?

sen8or
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  #2426359 24-Feb-2020 15:05
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I just coughed up for an expensive 10m hdmi cable, one of the 18gbps fibre hdmi leads I think, was around $140 wholesale I think, specced at 4k@60hz. I doubt the need to run a 8k compliant to a projector for a long long time, if ever.....


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billgates
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  #2426673 24-Feb-2020 22:15
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@33coupe Sorry I was meant to say matchmaster and not media master. Link is below. You can buy it from JA Russell and other electrical wholesalers. You can see it in my last photo on page 8 which shows my media room on the wall. This model is quote big so you can house a good loop and run of cables inside and mount fibre to ethernet converter units later for 8K streaming etc off your PC etc. It also allows for 3 GPO (double power outlet, double network outlet and an extra outlet). In regards to running a cable to your projector, you could run a conduit to it for now with a draw wire and in future when you buy a projector, you can run an HDMI cable. Make sure you put a double power point in that location now though. I went off the projector bandwagon. TV's screen quality is much better and they have started to become cheaper for bigger size screens. It also meant that I do not need a light controlled room with dark paint for a projector setup.

 

https://www.matchmaster.com.au/recessed-enclosures/04mm-hmh01/





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neb

neb
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  #2426675 24-Feb-2020 22:26
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sen8or:

I just coughed up for an expensive 10m hdmi cable, one of the 18gbps fibre hdmi leads.

 

 

I don't think running HDMI is worth it, it's like hardwiring in USB power, by the time you use it it'll have changed again. Better to run CAT6 everywhere, it's universal enough that it'll always be useful. You can move good-enough HDMI over ethernet for example. When we redo the Casa de Cowboy it's going to have half a ton of copper in the floor/ceiling space from all the cabling, all power and CAT6.

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  #2426677 24-Feb-2020 22:28
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nofam:

Definitely second all these points - bear in mind that your attic storage can't be used for anything super-heavy.

 

 

Talked to a council guy at a social event some time ago and he commented that "those things are all specced on the assumption that people are going to be storing grand pianos up there", so they're at least anticipating people cramming everything they can up there.

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  #2426679 24-Feb-2020 22:33
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sen8or:

Our rental we are in has a toilet in the main bathroom, ok for the kids, but after someone has gone and taken a smelly dump in the toilet, do you really want to try and shower or brush your teeth in there?

 

 

Running water will actually clear the, um, scent, so running the shower is a good way to make the room habitable again.

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  #2426680 24-Feb-2020 22:35
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bfginger:

Tiny WC rooms are annoying as it takes gymnastics to circumvent the door and tiny wash basin.

 

 

To make them extra fun, put vertical striped wallpaper on your tiny WC, so any time you go for a pee there it feels like you're falling down into the toilet. Friend of mine's place had that, it was quite entertaining.

 
 
 
 

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Ruphus
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  #2426736 25-Feb-2020 09:21
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billgates:

 

@paul1977 those are attic trusses.

 

 

Those are not attic trusses. There are standard trusses. I designed frames and trusses for a Prenail plant a while back. They are standard trusses but as the pitch of your roof is approximately 25 degrees and the span of the truss is approx 7-8m, the height at the centre of the truss between the top and bottom chord and also the distance between the webs (the diagonal bit of timber) is wide enough that you could fit some flooring in there.\

 

 

 

As mentioned earlier, attic trusses have a deeper bottom and top chord as there are no webs to help support the loading on the chords.


billgates
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  #2426863 25-Feb-2020 13:16
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@Ruphus I mentioned Attic Trusses because our roof bracing plan states Attic Trusses as shown below. Either way I have been told that we can store quite lot of stuff and walk on it without any issues. Not that we plan to store any thing very heavy anyway.

 





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Ruphus
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  #2426968 25-Feb-2020 15:16
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@billgates

 

 

 

Attic Truss

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

Standard Truss

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

There's a heap of extra loading that has to be taken into account when designing attic trusses. I just hope that you didn't pay extra for something you didn't get.

 

https://www.miteknz.co.nz/files/pdf/technical/Residential-Roof-Truss-System-Manual.pdf


33coupe

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  #2428314 27-Feb-2020 15:24
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Thanks again for the replies, great info.

 

I have a new / updated plan, which I have a few issues with. Just thought I'd share in case anyone has any ideas etc.

 

 

 

Click to see full size

 

1. switch ensuite / walk in so that bedroom 2 doesn't have to listen to toilet / shower (apparently cant have cavity slider between the 2 not enough room (would lose lots of walk in space)

 

2. switch wardrobe orientation so that Bed 2 has more accessible wardrobe 

 

3. reverse door hinge as washing will be taken to back of house

 

4. hopefully heat pump can be reloacated. only other place I can think of is above sliding door opposite

 

5. they've changed the door opening (poss nicer entrance to deck), my sofa was going there. Pus I also think it might better to enter deck closer to lounge doors, rather than walking all the way to end of the room...?

 

6. looking to change entire layout so that sliding door is closer to dining, which would allow bigger / more central wall for wall mounted tv in family

 

7. (not on pic) Will have 2500mm bi folds in the lounge, need to check panel width as could poss put sofa there and tv/projector on wall by ranch slider (may not change it though) 

 

8. The kitchen wont be like that. Dimensions poss:

 

650mm worktop

 

1150mm gap

 

600mm island (sink on worktop)

 

(hoping for booth seat against island at 430mm. If no booth, then dining table against island. no bar stools, and would be more space all around)

 

905 dining table

 

900 gap (could be more as large allowance for sofa)

 

2500 (sofas, 1 vertical, 1 horizontal)

 

600 gap to family from hallway (wont be used much)

 

 

 

 


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