Is Oregon timber that was used in houses treated?

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nznick

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#274580 29-Aug-2020 20:14

Hi all

I’ve got some Oregon beams that came out of the garage, which was attached to a house that was built around 1980. I’m just wondering whether the timber would’ve been treated or not.

Does anyone know if Oregon timber is or was was ever treated?

Thanks in advance for any posts.

Lastman

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#2552059 29-Aug-2020 20:34

Oregon is also known as Douglas Fir, I believe. I don’t think that’s generally treated but is quite durable especially in a building framing context.

neb

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#2552164 29-Aug-2020 22:32

Interesting that you should be asking this right now, my parents' place was built mostly from Douglas Fir. If it was treated then only to tea and biccies:

Lastman

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#2552171 29-Aug-2020 22:48

That looks like some sort of laminate though, is it sitting on concrete there?

neb

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#2552174 29-Aug-2020 22:54

Lastman:
That looks like some sort of laminate though, is it sitting on concrete there?

It's tongue-and-groove Douglas Fir. Not sure what it's on but I assume concrete.

froob

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#2552192 30-Aug-2020 00:48

I think douglas fir is typically untreated, but can be treated to H1.2 (boron). I don’t think H3.2 pressure treatment actually works on the wood.

Edit: http://www.nzwood.co.nz/forestry-2/douglas-fir/

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nznick

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#2552234 30-Aug-2020 08:43

Thanks for the replies team.

It looks like the general consensus here is that Oregon (Douglas Fir) is likely not treated if used indoors. I actually asked a builder this morning and he confirmed that it was not likely given the age of the house (circa the 1980s).

Probably worth mentioning is that I am going to be using the beams for a new workbench, so it is not like I am going to be using it for a kitchen bench. That said, I just wanted to check to see before I started putting it through the process and creating airborne chips and dust.

Thanks again.

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Bung

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#2552239 30-Aug-2020 09:01

Douglas Fir splinters like crazy so you should think about edges that you might rub against.

nznick

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#2553032 31-Aug-2020 11:44

I have heard that and was hesitant, but then read Christopher Schwarz's first book on workbenches. It suggested that Douglas Fir was one of his 2 goto timbers for building workbenches (I think the other was Southern Yellow Pine). I will be keeping an eye on the splinters to say the least.

MikeAqua

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#2553173 31-Aug-2020 14:39

nznick:

I have heard that and was hesitant, but then read Christopher Schwarz's first book on workbenches. It suggested that Douglas Fir was one of his 2 goto timbers for building workbenches (I think the other was Southern Yellow Pine). I will be keeping an eye on the splinters to say the least.

If you round the edges or cap them, it shouldn't be too bad. You can get router bits for rounding edges.

Example video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72NjUCw5Azw

This has a much wider round-over than you would want on a work bench. If you don't have a router, then sand paper with a concave block and the mark 1 eyechrometer work too.

Mike

nznick

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#2554173 31-Aug-2020 15:09

Any reason to get a new tool! I have a 1/8" round-over bit on the way already :)

neb

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#2554195 31-Aug-2020 15:58

nznick:
I have heard that and was hesitant, but then read Christopher Schwarz's first book on workbenches. It suggested that Douglas Fir was one of his 2 goto timbers for building workbenches (I think the other was Southern Yellow Pine).

Just be aware in US books that their go-to material may be very different from the material someone outside the US would go to. My workbench is radiata pine, it's cheap, readily available, easy to work with, etc, I assume the US equivalent to that would be douglas fir for the same reason.

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nznick

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#2554232 31-Aug-2020 16:49

Agreed and the only reason I am using these beams is that they are free :) My current workbench is made out of pine as well, but I haven't done my best work with the top as it is sagging in the middle.

neb

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#2554235 31-Aug-2020 16:58

nznick:
My current workbench is made out of pine as well, but I haven't done my best work with the top as it is sagging in the middle.

Ah, on mine the top is 25mm MDF, which stands up to abuse better than soft pine, and for anything that'll make a mess I drop a sacrificial hardboard sheet over it.. OTOH I don't use it for any heavy-duty work, it's full of electronics most of the time although that wasn't the original intent...