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*Insert big spe*dtest result here*
GizTec:
I think any decent(affordable) option would be good at this stage.. Paying 10% of the vehicles cost for a stereo doesn't sit right with me either :)
For them to be able to source and charge only $699 (comparing to their other solution mark ups) - Its going to be at least one of the 3 options which would explain the block..
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I've been on Geekzone over 16 years..... Time flies....
PhantomNVD:
A separate question, but with the fact that the EV population is doubling annually (and expected to do so from now on) and also that LEAF's make up more than half the light fleet... most Fast chargers seem to be fitted with Chademo ports AND Type2 "Menekes" and seem to be able to run both at the same time...?
As most EVs here seem to use the Chademo cable... and (in AKL anyway) the incidence of queueing is growing... how viable/available are Type2>Chademo cables, so that i can use an "adapter" of some sort to utilise the Type 2 to charge my Leaf when the Chademo is in use?
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I've been on Geekzone over 16 years..... Time flies....
Buttonmash:
If you're using a 10A cable surely it'd be alright (most EV chargers seem limited to 8A). Can't be any different to running a heater on an extension lead?
Yeah, you'd think that a 10A lead is a 10A lead and should do the job. In practice this isn't universally the case.
The advantage of 1.5mm over 1.0mm is that you get less voltage drop over a long distance. This isn't only an efficiency and performance matter but also a heat generation issue.
Small amounts of heat generation is not so much of an issue when you are running your heater for a few hours on a cold night or when it is running long term but the thermostat is cycling it on and off. You can run into trouble generating small amounts of heat, continuously over long periods of time (even more so if the lead is coiled up or covered). I have seen at least 3 times when leads have melted at the plug, and emitted smoke when carrying less than their rated load. In all cases the leads were running at about 80-90% load, continuously 24/7 in higher ambient temperatures. In researching it I found that some plug types and standards are rated at 8 hours and 20degC. So you have to de-rate them when running for longer than 8 hours or in higher temps that 20degC.
Perhaps the point is that if you shop carefully you can find 1.5mm leads (better quality & safety factor) for the same price (or less) than 1.0mm leads. If a 1.5mm lead costs the same as a 1.0mm lead, or if you intend to run it near full-bore for long periods in summer, a 1.5mm lead would be the sensible choice.
JeezyKreezy:This experience has left me wondering if there is a good way to estimate the battery usage for trips around NZ. Anyone use anything good?
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I've been on Geekzone over 16 years..... Time flies....
Linuxluver:JeezyKreezy:This experience has left me wondering if there is a good way to estimate the battery usage for trips around NZ. Anyone use anything good?
However, you need to add to the vehicle any additional weight. You can also adjust the maximum kWh available for the selected vehicle to match the state of your battery. Otherwise Greenrace assumes you have the maximum, new battery charge available.
http://www.jurassictest.ch/GR/
Great and very useful site.
For trips where you need the quick charger you will also need to allow for that some quickchargers only charge to 80%. Leaving you with less kWh available.
afe66: Although the 80% limit can be over ridden if wished. Ie some of chargenet ones.
This practical decision in that the charging rate slower as battery gets full.
Where there are no queues and no time charge it's not an issue.
Speaking of 80% charge. Does anyone use the 80% charge feature with their charge timers? I was just going to stick to 100% :/
I used to. However, given I don't travel outside of city limits, I wasn't 'saving' up for occasions for 100% charge - so then 80% charging simply means I've neutered my battery to 80%. Couldn't see the point in that.
Linuxluver:
LEAF owners should check their front wheel struts if they haven't already. This is an old issue, but some here may not be aware of it.
Thanks for the advice on this.
During the week the caps were delivered. Yesterday I installed them. One side was pretty clean, the other was a pool of rusty water. Eek!
paulchinnz:I used to. However, given I don't travel outside of city limits, I wasn't 'saving' up for occasions for 100% charge - so then 80% charging simply means I've neutered my battery to 80%. Couldn't see the point in that.
Solid points @phantomnvd. In response:
1) 100% means that I'm less likely to be caught out by unexpected extra journeys
2) 100% means charging less often (slacker that I am)
3) 80% setting was apparently removed from US Leaf models. Jap kept that setting - at least mine (2013) is an example of that. Easy enough to replicate by charging for limited time anyway.
Cybnate:
Great and very useful site.
For trips where you need the quick charger you will also need to allow for that some quickchargers only charge to 80%. Leaving you with less kWh available.
If you mean the Charge.Net fast chargers......they do go to 80% by default, but if you tag on and then touch the centre of the button that says "80%" below and "Max" above.....it will charge to "Max".
Max is usually 95%.......though some Gen 1 LEAFs may only charge to 90% due to a bug in their firmware. Gen 2 LEAFs and other EVs don't have the problem (if they can use the DC chargers).
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I've been on Geekzone over 16 years..... Time flies....
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