networkn: For those of you who sharpen your knifes at home, on a steel.. PLEASE wash your knives very carefully afterward. Tiny shards of metal in your soft tissues isn't an experience you'd likely forget.

Sorry for being pedantic, but do you mean honing rather than sharpening? If so, are you really removing any metal to wash off?

Having said that, I always give my knife a wipe down after honing anyway, seems adequate.

Geektastic:

 

Tinkerisk:

 

Swap wife and proceed with fishing. ;-)

 

 

Got a new ute for my girlfriend.

 

So she brings you to the fishing grounds? Well done! ;-)

The famous Damascus steel can't be reproduced since the original iron ore sources don't exist anymore and afaik they were located in India and/or Sri Lanka. As @Geektastic said, the exact manufacturing process and -knowledge were lost as well during the centuries. ALL today productions are "damascus-like steel". They are completely different because their characteristic pattern today comes from the forge, but the original damascus pattern came from the metal compilation and handling process.

Since the posting is related to generic kitchen style knives, we should not drift to utility or hunting knife requirements.

(in that case I currently use a steel (CPM S-90V) which is capable to dismantle 8 boars (up to now) in a row and after that it still can easily do a sheet of paper test without any issues but will be a hell once to re-sharpen it without Diamond support).

A good Santoku should have dimples to minimise food sticking to the blade.

MikeAqua:

A good Santoku should have dimples to minimise food sticking to the blade.

Geektastic:

MikeAqua:

 

A good Santoku should have dimples to minimise food sticking to the blade.

 

You can get many knives with a granton edge. I have a small vegetable knife with that feature.

A knife with a partially convex/concave grind will usually achieve the same effect.

My primary knife posted above, has this feature, I have found it to be largely not of much use. Potatoes still stick to the sides of them.

MikeAqua: A good Santoku should have dimples to minimise food sticking to the blade.

As above, that's not a fact.

Geektastic: A knife with a partially convex/concave grind will usually achieve the same effect.

Which one?  Or it doesn't matter, as long as it's not flat?

bazzer:

 

MikeAqua: A good Santoku should have dimples to minimise food sticking to the blade.

 

As above, that's not a fact.

 

Geektastic: A knife with a partially convex/concave grind will usually achieve the same effect.

 

Which one?  Or it doesn't matter, as long as it's not flat?

 

I suspect convex would work better, but 'not flat' seems to be the key. Some knives have mixed - concave behind the edge and then convex between there and the spine.

I've been offered a knife as a thank you for some favours that I've done, but not sure what I should be asking for.

I think I'd prefer a Gyuto over a Santoku, but something like the Sukenari that @Geektastic got is well outside the price range (unless he has a much cheaper supplier!).

Looking probably around the $300 mark (give or take) so thought maybe the Masakage Mizu Gyuto 210mm or Masakage Shimo Gyuto 210mm but I really don't know much about knives.

Any thoughts on these knives, or other suggestions would be appreciated.

seems like many people into knifes.

So would anyone recommend any decent set for under $200-300 or that simply do not exist and these at briscoes is my best choice?

kobiak:

 

seems like many people into knifes.

 

So would anyone recommend any decent set for under $200-300 or that simply do not exist and these at briscoes is my best choice?

 

I bought one of these: https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/KNIVES+AND+MULTITOOLS/KITCHEN+KNIVES/Victorinox/Victorinox+Fibrox+8+Inch+Chef+Knife+-+40520.html

It definitely isn't in the league of a good ZDP steel knife, but it offers great value for what it costs.  I also have some Victorinox 3.5" & 4" utility/paring knives, thin profile and cut well but you need to sharpen them fairly regularly or they aren't all that great.  The top quality ZDP knives will need sharpening less often, but be difficult to sharpen - I'd love to own one but can't justify spending $800 on a knife, especially when I have my eye on a motorcycle that will cost $21,500.

If you can learn to sharpen your own knives so you can keep a good edge even on a modestly priced knife then you can have a good cutting experience with your knives without spending a fortune.  I know that I can grab one of my $12 folding knives and it will have a LOT more sharpness than the average persons best kitchen knife, I have a pic somewhere of my finger after I was careless with one of my knives, luckily the cut was so clean that it healed with no scar whatsoever.

Nobody has mentioned Chicago Cutlery yet. Plain, simple & damn sharp for years. Good weight in the hand as well.

Paul1977:

 

I've been offered a knife as a thank you for some favours that I've done, but not sure what I should be asking for.

 

I think I'd prefer a Gyuto over a Santoku, but something like the Sukenari that @Geektastic got is well outside the price range (unless he has a much cheaper supplier!).

 

Looking probably around the $300 mark (give or take) so thought maybe the Masakage Mizu Gyuto 210mm or Masakage Shimo Gyuto 210mm but I really don't know much about knives.

 

Any thoughts on these knives, or other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Actually, the Masakage Yuki Gyuto 210mm might be a contender, not as pretty to look at as the Shimo, but the stainless steel cladding over the carbon steel is probably a good thing for rust resistance.

I buy Scanpan knives when they are 50% off at Briscoes.  They hold a good edge and have a double riveted tang and nice feel in the hand. They are good value

I can make them razor-sharp with my whet-stones, but I usually go for an angle that gives a slightly less sharp but longer lasting edge. 

I have one high-end German knife for sashimi and carpaccio.  It only gets used for those things.  I hone it scary-sharp.