Cheap warehouse dehumidifiers?

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#489361 4-Jul-2011 21:11

freitasm: Arghhh... We have an old DVS here (installed in 2001 apparently, way before we bought the house). We thought adding a tempervent would be a good measure, after all it heats up the ari being pushed to about 15c, which is a lot more than the air temperature outside during winter, so we can leave the DVS running without getting too cold.

Their agent came up saying they can't retrofit to specific model we have, so it would be about $2,500 to install a new model, a second vent and the two tempervents we want.

We decided to use $1,000 to improve our current ceiling insulation and put the difference into a heat pump.

Their loss...

And your gain! They really did you a favor, not installing a heater that would be constantly running wasting heaps of power. A heat pump is a much more energy efficient form of heating, and ceiling insulation is certainly worth the money. It makes me angry seeing inline duct heaters with 'eco' or 'econo' in the name.

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#489377 4-Jul-2011 21:34

I replaced the four downlights in my lounge with ceiling domes, then insulated over the top, and filled a few random small gaps in the pink batts (which did have wool under them). Previously the wind whistled throw the downlights. My guess, based on one evenings worth of data, is i've reduced the heat loss by between 20 and 40%.

richms

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#489408 4-Jul-2011 22:11

Yeah, you are screwed if you do have sealed downlights since they eat CFLs all the time too. Its a shame that so many houses in NZ have such low cielings that about all you can put in them without making the room seem intruded in is downlights. Would be loverly to have a place that I could put a decent lamp in the middle of the room without having to duck under it when walking thru ;)

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#489419 4-Jul-2011 22:39

I have an oooooold house with really high ceilings. I didn't know sealed downlights cause failures, but I guess they get hotter so it makes sense. I was going to put in LED downlights, but they're not bright enough yet, and you're still not really meant to insulate over them.

I wish i'd known about the insulation thing before I put them in, it would've saved me an electricians bills and the cost of the fittings.

Cheap downlights for sale! Don't buy them if you want a warm house!

richms

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#489433 4-Jul-2011 22:53

The only LED ones that are bright are massive and have many seperate dies and lenses, so everything gets horrible shadows with multiple hard edges on them which looks aweful.

the strips are great replacements for T5 fluros used in coves etc. I put some RGB stuff around and wouldnt recommend that unless you actually want to use the RGB because the white is really ugly nomatter how you adjust it, and the PWM is really fatiguing to be under, like looking at those crap LED backlit LCDs that flicker more than any old CRT ever did.

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#489442 4-Jul-2011 23:01

Give them a few years then, they should be ok by then.

Skolink

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#489521 5-Jul-2011 09:31

richms: Yeah, you are screwed if you do have sealed downlights since they eat CFLs all the time too.

Yes I have some EcoBulb 15W mini CFL sealed downlights in our dining room. While they are good quality, they still only last a year due I think to the fire being in the same room and high ceiling temperatures (even with a heat transfer kit). Also I intentionally did not leave as much clearance between the bulb and insulation as recommended.

I now know that you can get F-Hat (Class F) rated CFL downlights, which you can fully insulated above. When I can afford them I will replace our downlights. Fozz fittings are available at Lighting Direct
http://www.lightingdirect.co.nz/cronos-gx53-13w-4000k-recess-down-light-matt-nickel

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freitasm

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#489525 5-Jul-2011 09:34

We replaced all downlights with Fozz a couple of years ago... No problems there.

timmmay

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#489527 5-Jul-2011 09:39

I went with standard lights mostly because of price, but also so I could use cheaper standard CFL bulbs, and brighter bulbs than go in most downlight fittings. I got some different ones for different rooms, but they cost $240 instead of about $640 for the fozz ones. Still if you like downlights they're worthwhile.

Insulating too close to a downlight is a fire hazard. At least the ones I had you could abut the insulation up to them.

freitasm

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#489530 5-Jul-2011 09:41

The F-Hat is a specification for downlights that can be covered by insulation.

timmmay

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#489532 5-Jul-2011 09:45

freitasm: The F-Hat is a specification for downlights that can be covered by insulation.

I know, they're just expensive. Not sure what your point is? Cheaper lights are sealed and can have insulation abutted but not put over the top. I just went with a sealed ceiling, dome lights, and good insulation.

Skolink

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#489584 5-Jul-2011 11:08

timmmay:
freitasm: The F-Hat is a specification for downlights that can be covered by insulation.

I know, they're just expensive. Not sure what your point is?

I think he thought you said "Insulating too close to a downlight is a fire hazard" in repsonse to me talking about covering a Class F fitting with insulation, but you were responding to me saying I had intentionally left less clearance than recommended.

timmmay

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#489587 5-Jul-2011 11:10

Oh yeah, I was replying about the standard downlights, not the F rated ones. The different ratings are effectively "don't get insulation anywhere near them", "abutted but not over" (A), and "insulate over" (F).

richms

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#489630 5-Jul-2011 12:54

GX53 lamps are aweful too, would never suggest getting those puck ones to anyone.

Best thing that could happen is someone make a LED puck that you could use inplace of the shoddy CFL. Those things only exist because of idiot europe.

Richard rich.ms

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#489649 5-Jul-2011 13:28

Good luck with your insurance too if downlights are found to be at fault for a fire and you've not adhered to the minimum insulation distances.

As above on the duct heater. You spend heaps sealing and insulating a home against draughts and then pay to force cold air into you house, ducted right past the insulation. It's a draught you pay to have!

Pros and cons though, as you need ventilation most at night as everything is locked up tight, but ventilation then will be cold as.

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