Nissan LEAF - General

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#2998303 19-Nov-2022 09:47

boland:

How important is mileage really? I know this question was asked a couple of days ago, but in my case the price is different.

Option 1: 2016, 110k km, 75% SoH, 1000 QC.
Option 2: 2016, 30k km, 74% SoH, 50 QC
Option 1 is $16k, option 2 is $19.5k , so $3500 difference.

I'm contemplating option 1 as with more KM's it still has the same SoH, so I feel that the battery would be better?

I would question that a Leaf that has travelled 110,000km still has a 75% SoH battery. What are the "QC" numbers you're quoting?

https://www.harmlesssolutions.co.nz/

RunningMan

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#2998311 19-Nov-2022 09:57

@HarmLessSolutions no need to quote the entire previous post each time - it just makes the thread twice as long to read for everyone. Just use the reply or quick reply box instead.

QC = quick charge (i.e. DC charge cycles).

I'd suggest that the SOH has been artificially inflated with all that DC charging and will drop a bar quite quickly.

boland

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#2998313 19-Nov-2022 10:15

Thanks @RunningMan and @HarmlessSolutions

I read in various other posts that QC isn't necessarily bad, but high temps. But yeah, I agree the SoH seems a bit high.

How much can the SoH be inflated, up to about 8% right? 67% SoH is still okay, and it's reflected in the price.

RunningMan

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#2998317 19-Nov-2022 10:57

That's still a large difference in distance travelled. While it's easy to say distance doesn't matter on an EV, it's not quite that simple. There's still a lot of mechanical parts that will wear - suspension bushes/joints, CV joints, as well as wear and tear of the interior etc.

For the sake of a very rough calculation, if you got 100-110km of range from a DC charge, with 1000 charges, that means the car has been almost exclusively DC charged. It is more likely to degrade faster than one that hasn't been DC charged all the time, but it's not the only factor. They're certainly comparable cars, but you'd need to include all the other factors such as specs, features that are useful to you when deciding.

jonathan18

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#2998318 19-Nov-2022 10:57

RunningMan:

@HarmLessSolutions no need to quote the entire previous post each time - it just makes the thread twice as long to read for everyone. Just use the reply or quick reply box instead.

@RunningMan: While this is off-topic I think it's worth pointing out I don't think it's as black and white as you indicate (ie, your way is what we all prefer/should do).

Personally, I find it can be really useful to see quoted text, especially in a busy thread where the context of a reply isn't necessarily obvious as it may be a few posts back. My approach is like I've done here - quote the post but remove text that's not relevant to my reply.

Even if it's a long quote, it's not difficult to scan down to the actual reply. It's more of a problem with multiple replies within the same message; in that case, again I'll strip it back to solely the text I'm replying to.

Edit: I'm not saying my way is better, but simply to illustrate that there are different opinions on and approaches to the quoting quandary.

RunningMan

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#2998320 19-Nov-2022 11:02

Agree when it's in relation to a post that's buried a few back, but when it's quoting the entire immediately previous reply, it's simply not needed. It's also grounds for removing the post and/or banning the user as per the FUG.

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HarmLessSolutions

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#2998324 19-Nov-2022 11:12

@RunningMan I find it convenient to see a previous post that the reply refers to rather than having to scroll back to ascertain what a post's context is.

I'm not sure that quoting 5 lines of text (as this was) is going to 'break the bank' in terms of thread content. Perhaps if a member is browsing the thread on a small screen on a mobile device it may be convenient in that regard but isn't having to scroll back on a phone just as much of an inconvenience.

I'll leave this matter up to TPTB but I doubt I'm under threat of a ban in this incidence.

https://www.harmlesssolutions.co.nz/

jonathan18

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#2998327 19-Nov-2022 11:16

RunningMan:

Agree when it's in relation to a post that's buried a few back, but when it's quoting the entire immediately previous reply, it's simply not needed. It's also grounds for removing the post and/or banning the user as per the FUG.

I assume you're talking about this line?

the posts contains unnecessarily long quotes from previous replies

That doesn't at all say users can't quote a post fully if their post shows immediately under it - that's one possible interpretation of it (whereas my reading is, given it clearly relates to length not placement, it's probably more pertinent to a quote retaining non-relevant content), but interpreting the FUG is the responsibility of the moderators not us mere users! Anyway, I'm at risk here of getting banned for going OT, so probably best we agree to disagree on this one and move on...

Jase2985

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#2998394 19-Nov-2022 12:36

HarmLessSolutions:

@RunningMan I find it convenient to see a previous post that the reply refers to rather than having to scroll back to ascertain what a post's context is.

thats what the quick reply box is for right underneath the last post. and if you read the thread in a logical order you shouldnt need to scroll.

either way you should follow the FUG

mdav056

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#2998441 19-Nov-2022 12:53

Let's get back to the topic, shall we? What peeves me is to be alerted to off-topic posts.

gml

Basil12

124 posts

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#2998506 19-Nov-2022 18:58

EVsEnhanced:

On all 'S' model Leafs, the charger timer time you set is the ending time, not the starting time. The starting time is calculated by the car.

Thanks for this - you might have written this five years ago but as a new owner of a 2016 Leaf S spec I couldn't for the life of me work out how to set a start time for charging. It now looks like I can't. Certainly a trick for young players. Thanks again.

Quik internet referral link

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boland

559 posts

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#3004120 1-Dec-2022 14:59

I wanted to thank everyone here who has replied to my questions. We're now a proud owner of a 2016 Leaf 30kWh. Based on your recommendations, gone for an X with SRS. Can't be happier.
Bought online at HVS Christchurch, very happy with their service. Shipping only took a week to Wellington.

Shame on Coventry Cars Lower Hutt by the way, their prices are ridiculous. The same car costs at least $5k more there.

GV27

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#3004485 2-Dec-2022 09:59

Hopefully in a week's time I'll my bum sat in my ZE1.

I say hopefully because the bloody boat is still in Australia.

boland

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#3006164 6-Dec-2022 09:27

We've got a 2016 Leaf X 30kwh with the standard nav unit. It's converted to English, but the maps are Japan only.

What are currently the options to update the nav unit to allow for Android Auto?

Our dealer said they used to have a guy who could update the firmware, but they no longer work with him.

I also found posts about Xanavi that offer this for $300, without any soldering. Not sure if it's worth $300 for me though.

mdav056

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#3006169 6-Dec-2022 09:43

boland:

We've got a 2016 Leaf X 30kwh with the standard nav unit. It's converted to English, but the maps are Japan only.

What are currently the options to update the nav unit to allow for Android Auto?

Our dealer said they used to have a guy who could update the firmware, but they no longer work with him.

I also found posts about Xanavi that offer this for $300, without any soldering. Not sure if it's worth $300 for me though.

I'd leave it be, and buy a cheapish standalone nav unit, preferably with lifetime maps. I bought a new Adayo head unit, but updating the maps seems almost impossible (and expensive). The benefit of a standalone nav unit (apart from map updates) is that you can use it in any car that you may purchase in the future.

AliExpress sells a number of units that purport to connect android or apple maps to head units, but getting the right unit for the head might not be simple.

gml

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