New House Build. Help/Suggestions please(HVAC, Cinema, Electrics, Cladding, Timber etc)

Forums › Home Workshop DIY › New House Build. Help/Suggestions please(HVAC, Cinema, Electrics, Cladding, Timber etc)

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#1352910 27-Jul-2015 21:06

mattwnz:
Asko aren't bad either, I find their diskwashers are better than bosch, having owned both. Miele if you want top of the range and something that will last and last.

I've had two Asko dishwashers actually, one sounded like a freight train and faulted and the 2nd one was just stupidly loud.
The quoted 'super quiet' running volumes are apparently quoted when the machine was tested inside some super sound absorbing cabinetry. As it turns out, my Sweedish made units were the loudest dishwashers I've ever had. The stainless interior was a beautiful piece of engineering, but the spinner snapped off...
Repairs were expensive, but the dishes were always well cleaned.
The entry level Miele dishwashers were okay, but down on features with pretty rudimentary runners on the bottom tray that fail easily (but are childs play to replace). My whiteware is all Miele though, that's some seriously nice kit!
Bosch seem to get most things right at a good price though IMHO.

jurgensp99

68 posts

Master Geek

#1352940 27-Jul-2015 22:26

billgates:

With strict SDOC requirement from pretty much all electricians, I am going to have to now source the IC rated LED's from here. Need to lookout for a good sale. What's better 240V or 12V? I like 240V in the sense that only the bulb will need to be replaced. There is a chance that 12V driver can eventually just die?

There isn't really a better as such. 240V sealed unit is just that, everything in one (Housing/Lamp/Driver). If it dies you replace the entire thing.
If you go with separates than you replace only the bit that dies. It also allows more variety to chose more obscure products eg brass housings with obscure lamps.

I have Philips Smartbright mini myself http://led360.co.nz/residential-products.htmlhowever there is a plethora of other good product out there depending on your spec (beam angle/colour temp/brightness)
Also get some spares in case they end the product line.

Lastly I would recommend you have your electrician get them for you as he will get a much better price from the wholesalers than you will get from any sale. They will also have their favourites and often carry some samples in their vans to do a demo.

bfginger

1269 posts

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#1353226 28-Jul-2015 11:12

Ah I thought you meant you were dropping batts altogether.

Nikoftime: So your total pc allowance for windows is neary $50k??
Have you got any firm quotes? I would seriously consider eurostyle (multi-point locking). They will be far superior to thermally broken ali windows. If there are any windows that dont need to be opened then making them fixed pane will keep the cost of eurostyle windows to a min. Also remove any windows that dont provide a usefull function...I believe most kiwi houses are overglazed causing excessive heat loss and sometimes overheating problems.

Multi-point locking is available for thermally broken aluminium windows from Nulook, Fairview and Elite. I don't think the other brands do it as there won't be much demand for it.

The single-point latches used on New Zealand aluminium windows don't provide much security. Single point locks on swing doors with wooden jambs are the worst.

European style roller shutters would be useful for those big north facing windows. But average uPVC frames aren't far superior to thermally broken aluminium for heat retention only the more expensive high end frames are. There are European window systems other than uPVC but they shouldcost more.

Dunners, Asko was bought out five years ago so what you had may be different from new models.

Mattwnz, all major brands of fibreglass batts for sale in NZ should be biosoluable. Unlike Knauf and Bradford, Pink Batts doesn't contribute to the trade deficit. Polyester is a bit more expensive but you can use it in a storage space or accessed area without any dust and handling issues.

Jase2985

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#1378067 2-Sep-2015 09:39

hows this progressing?

billgates

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#1378158 2-Sep-2015 11:56

Sorry I have not posted in a while. Been busy with a project at work that I finished early this week. I received my pre-lims report 3 weeks ago and I just started this week making changes/finalization of Window framing sizes etc. Biggest issue right now I have is ducted heatpump in ground floor but might have a work around now finally. Will post the pre-lims and more detailed explanation of ducted heat pump issue tonight.

Do whatever you want to do man.

billgates

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#1386238 12-Sep-2015 15:33

Changes are being done to the pre-lims report that came back 3 weeks ago. Hopefully I get the changes finished this week from Draughts people and sent back to me. After that I get one more shot at doing changes if anything else needs to be done and from there 4 full weeks for full working drawings. Visited the kitchen place today with Wife and discussed what we want. We will get a concept design and plan next week. So far we have decided on Eurostone (Quartzforms) from Heritage Hardware. It's made in Germany and the quality looks very good. Doing 20mm bench top in Scullery and 60mm mitered in cook top bench-top and kitchen island in front of t. This is the colour Wife has selected.

The longest length I have been told engineered stone comes in is 3.2M. Out kitchen island is 3.6M long so we will get a break in the middle of the Island where the kitchen sink will be in. This will minimize and hide most of the cuts being joined from 2 sides. Going with granite sinks. Trying to find one which has a wide primary bowl and still a decent width secondary bowl for outside kitchen and just a single wide granite sink in the scullery. Also now considering putting same bench top but in 20mm for Laundry room.

Do whatever you want to do man.

mattwnz

20164 posts

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#1386260 12-Sep-2015 16:46

Just a warning if you are choosing thermally broken windows, make sure that you don't make the windows too narrow, as the frames are a lot thicker than regular double glazed frames. So for narrow windwwos, you may not end up with much glass, as most will be frame, especially on opening sashes. Just something I discovered recently on a new project I am working on.

Also the builders may try to push you into a contract early, before you have decided on everything. This is partly so they can secure the work and start building, but also because you may not have made all your decisions yet, and they can make a lot of money on variations. Don't rely on PC sums, as they often under quote on the cheapest stuff. eg Door handles will be the cheapest ones that the retailer may sell. So make sure you have absolutely everything nailed down, as it will save you money in the long run. Not unless you are needing it built as soon as possible.

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billgates

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#1386352 12-Sep-2015 20:42

Thanks for the tips. Do you remember how wide the windows were that looked too narrow? The smallest we have is around each bedside in all three bedrooms on southern side of the house which are 600mm wide each. I am confirming all pricing and details etc of each thing going in the house before I sign the contract. I have made this clear to my builders.

Edit - Also I am seriously considering underfloor heating now too with tiles on the floor instead of Quickstep laminated flooring for best performance. Too scared of cracks forming n polished concrete. Going to drop ducted and just put splits in bedrooms and 1 in family/living/dining area. No underfloor in cinema due to various layers on floor and it's double stud wall constructions with both walls insulated so no heating needed.

Do whatever you want to do man.

mattwnz

20164 posts

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#1386402 12-Sep-2015 22:24

billgates: Thanks for the tips. Do you remember how wide the windows were that looked too narrow? The smallest we have is around each bedside in all three bedrooms on southern side of the house which are 600mm wide each. I am confirming all pricing and details etc of each thing going in the house before I sign the contract. I have made this clear to my builders.

Edit - Also I am seriously considering underfloor heating now too with tiles on the floor instead of Quickstep laminated flooring for best performance. Too scared of cracks forming n polished concrete. Going to drop ducted and just put splits in bedrooms and 1 in family/living/dining area. No underfloor in cinema due to various layers on floor and it's double stud wall constructions with both walls insulated so no heating needed.

Probably about 400-500 wide windows. 600 sounds like it should be ok. May depend on the profiles and the company you use though, but most profiles seem to come from Fletchers (typical of the building sector in NZ, where this is usually one main player). They will have samples of the profiles, so you can check what the actual glass width is.

Aredwood

3885 posts

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#1386404 12-Sep-2015 22:25

Since you are considering underfloor heating. Get a proper European condensing boiler. Don't use an infinity to run the underfloor. And make sure the design it so the boiler directly runs the underfloor instead of going via a mixing valve. (boiler set to a low temp.) More efficient to run directly.

And consider solar gain. Because underfloor is slow to respond to changes to heat gain / loss. You may get big temp swings that are hard to get rid of.

billgates

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#1386406 12-Sep-2015 22:35

Thanks. Is Bosch a good brand for underfloor heating? They have a model which does both undetloor heating and provides infinity hot water. Was thinking of 2 x Rinnai for both three bathrooms and Bosch condenser unit for underfloor and kitchen hot water?

Edit - When you mention avoid mixing valve I am guessing its a no no to have the Bosch unit do both hydronic heating and hot water for kitchen?

Do whatever you want to do man.

Aredwood

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#1386425 13-Sep-2015 00:13

Can you link to that Bosch unit? As so far all of the units I have seen the hot water function is just tacked on meaning the heat up time for the hot water is poor.

mattwnz

20164 posts

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#1386427 13-Sep-2015 00:15

Aredwood: Since you are considering underfloor heating. Get a proper European condensing boiler. Don't use an infinity to run the underfloor. And make sure the design it so the boiler directly runs the underfloor instead of going via a mixing valve. (boiler set to a low temp.) More efficient to run directly.

And consider solar gain. Because underfloor is slow to respond to changes to heat gain / loss. You may get big temp swings that are hard to get rid of.

How do you recommend heating it? Hot water heat pump or or something else?

billgates

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#1386429 13-Sep-2015 00:21

Aredwood: Can you link to that Bosch unit? As so far all of the units I have seen the hot water function is just tacked on meaning the heat up time for the hot water is poor.

Yep. Combi Boiler does hydronic + hot water (http://www.bosch-climate.co.nz/products-bosch-hot-water/bosch-heating-systems/hydronic-heating-boilers/5000w-37kw-combi-boiler.html)

This one just does Hydronic heating. http://www.bosch-climate.co.nz/products-bosch-hot-water/bosch-heating-systems/hydronic-heating-boilers/condens-5000-18k.html

Do whatever you want to do man.

billgates

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#1387369 14-Sep-2015 18:24

Received the concept kitchen design and plans today. The benchtop is 500mm in these designs as per the designers recommendations with 1.1M space for standing/walking which I think is a lot. Currently small size pantry has 600mm benchtop with 1M walking/standing space and that's pretty good so thinking of doing the same measurements with new house build/kitchen as well.

Click on links below to enlarge the size.

https://i.imgur.com/4fex619.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IsKelWj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TzMjXda.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sSRbZ62.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VQbsoxD.jpg

Do whatever you want to do man.

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