HDMI cable ran in wrong direction, any options?

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33coupe

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#2717130 2-Jun-2021 11:05

Thanks for the replies. Great info

I did contact the NZ supplier who contacted manufacture who advised it supports CEC, so it's a bit confusing. I will try again tonight as the PlayStation should be turning on the receiver as separate to extender.

Pulling out the speaker cable first is a great idea, just need to make sure I have draw wire for both the speaker cable and hdmi cable

The flush box next to the 90d would be ok I think, might look a bit odd being 1m off the floor but screen would cover it when down.
I'm thinking I need a huge piece of art to cover all these holes lol

Thanks for the tip with the hdmi cable, I guess only downside to that is it's 2.0 rather than 2.1

SomeoneSomewhere

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#2717220 2-Jun-2021 12:03

You can use just the one draw wire. Connect the draw wire to the head of the HDMI cable. Ensure that you have plenty of slack in the ceiling so that even when the HDMI cable has been fully pulled through, you still have access to the draw wire at both ends. This means that if the connection between the HDMI cable and the draw wire breaks, you can pull the cable back out, re-tie, and try again. Otherwise you're screwed. It's much more common for that connection to break than the wire itself.

Then, either use the remaining draw wire to pull the speaker cables back through, or tape them on to the HDMI cable ~200mm behind the head. The head will be the difficult part; the rest should pull easily.

Always ensure that even if one of your splices fails, you still have a cable in the wall that you can pull a new draw wire through with.

Danite

42 posts

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#2717327 2-Jun-2021 14:50

33coupe:

The flush box next to the 90d would be ok I think, might look a bit odd being 1m off the floor but screen would cover it when down.
I'm thinking I need a huge piece of art to cover all these holes lol

I would just cut it next to the one that its currently run through (to the left looking at the picture you posted), should be able to fish the cables down to the new one and then go from there.

33coupe

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#2718274 4-Jun-2021 13:37

Quick update.

I've managed to get to the corner of the ceiling/wall. Hardest/scariest thing ever, nearly got stuck lol.

I couldn't pull from the top, not even the speaker cable. So I've cut a hole in the wall as advised on here for another flush box parallel to others and pulled through speaker cables so no longer horizontal through the stud.

I'm pretty certain a speaker cable needs to come out for the hdmi to come out as well as pretty tight, but am a little unsure how to do this (sorry I know people have explained already just need to make sure I don't lose a cable in the wall)

Don't think a coat hook wire would be able to reach to get the hdmi through the 90d angle.
What a nightmare. Still p***** about this

gbwelly

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#2718299 4-Jun-2021 14:00

Gib is $30 a sheet. Plasterers in my experience charge very little for the magic they do. I don't know what one of those optical cables is worth but I wouldn't be surprised if it made economic sense to get the wall opened up and arranged to your satisfaction. You can paint it yourself at the end for your penance. You can also test the cable works right before you seal it all up too.

chevrolux

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#2718301 4-Jun-2021 14:03

gbwelly:

Gib is $30 a sheet. Plasterers in my experience charge very little for the magic they do. I don't know what one of those optical cables is worth but I wouldn't be surprised if it made economic sense to get the wall opened up and arranged to your satisfaction. You can paint it yourself at the end for your penance. You can also test the cable works right before you seal it all up too.

Agreed! Spend a couple hundy on GIB, plaster, paint and recover the cable. Or spend a couple hundy on a new HDMI cable, that you'd still have to get down the wall anyway.

It's not coming out unbroken as it is, that's for sure.

richms

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#2718319 4-Jun-2021 14:54

Just get a large holesaw and make round holes in the wall to get to the nogs that are jamming things up. Round is easier to patch since there are no corners for the paper to lift up.

Richard rich.ms

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33coupe

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#2718438 4-Jun-2021 19:09

Thanks for the replies.

Omg I can't believe it, I've actually managed to do it!

I had to cut another hole near the 90d hdmi, pulled it out. Then pushed it down to the lower flush box hole.
Took off the fish wire, and re attached to hdmi at lower hole.
Wasn't able to pull it through so took the risk of pulling through a speaker cable.
My heart sunk when the hdmi cable didn't come through!
I managed to pull the remaining speaker cable a bit as well as hdmi and it came through.
Re attached the other end as well as the speaker cable. Pulling the wire back and it got stuck. Managed to wiggle free after pushing and pulling and I can't believe the cable still works.
It's been pushed pulled so hard I thought for sure it was broken.

I know have hdmi link and no flickering etc.
Now I'm hoping the sparky will refund for the hdmi extender. Just wasted a load of money on labour as well 😭

Thanks everyone on here, absolute legends.
Now to patch or cover the hole by the right angle. Or just leave the projector screen down permanently lol.

Thanks again

SomeoneSomewhere

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#2718452 4-Jun-2021 19:54

Woohoo!

Wholesalers are usually pretty good at offering refunds as long as it wasn't too special order.

SomeoneSomewhere

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#2718453 4-Jun-2021 19:55

Do you have a centre speaker and is the hole in about the right place? Failing that, chuck a socket there if there's a shelf below? Or a holder for wireless keyboard.

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