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Lizard1977

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#281149 2-Feb-2021 14:53
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I'm in the midst of building a computer desk.  I'm using 18mm ply for most of the desk, with an 18mm pine sheet for the main desktop.  I still have measuring/cutting and sanding to do before I can even begin to assemble, but my mind is already wandering ahead to how I will finish the surface.

 

I quite like the existing colour of the pine/ply, so wasn't planning on staining it any other colour.  But I wasn't sure whether I should use a lacquer or a varnish/polyurethane product, especially for the desktop.  For something that will have my wrists/hands on it, I don't want anything that has too much "tack" to it (i.e. feeling sticky).  What would you suggest?

 

Also, I'm unsure whether I should apply any varnish/lacquer/poly product before or after I assemble.  It will be easier to brush on when I can lay the pieces flat, but am I asking for trouble when I try to assemble it in its finished state?


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mdf

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  #2645885 2-Feb-2021 15:08
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It's usually easier to finish after assembly. Glue won't stick to any kind of finish (mostly - some glues and finishes excepted). You can finish it before assembly but will need to mask your joining surfaces. It's also higher risk - you've got less chance to sand (or beat) unruly joins into submission if finished first.

I would use an oil based polyurethane (I tend to use resene's Qristal clear). You can use water based but I've always found these to be faintly tackier than the oil based equivalents for things like desks and bookshelves. Water based is way easier and more pleasant to use though. I'd probably suggest keeping some offcuts to paint some tests and see what you think.



neb

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  #2646044 2-Feb-2021 17:14
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Speaking of glue, be very, very careful with squeeze out, if you're using the typical PVA then it's going to seal the timber against stain or varnish. I prefer construction adhesive because if you leave it for maybe ten to twenty minutes you can scrape off the squeeze-out like chewing gum.

 

 

For the finish, I'd go the MDF's approach, but precede it with a few coats of BLO, boiled linseed oil, provided you don't mind the slight reddish cast it'll give it. Bare pine just looks pale and white.

 

 

Also, if the desk is going to be anywhere where the sun hits it, use outdoors-rated or marine-grade or whatever they want to bill it as polyurethane since that has UV-blockers in it which will make it last longer.

 

 

Ah, also consider satin rather than gloss, unless you want a really shiny desk. And if you're doing that, follow the instructions on stirring regularly.

cshwone
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  #2646065 2-Feb-2021 17:39
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Untreated will get dirty pretty quickly but bear in mind that whatever you decide to seal it with the colour will definitely change so check out those charts you see hanging in M10 and Bunnings quite carefully


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