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Batman
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  #1405598 14-Oct-2015 11:44
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Inphinity:
mdooher: 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm very suspicious that in the marketing you never see the braking ability tested side by side on a dry track.


See the figures I posted in my response above, of the Ecopia vs the RE003s - that's dry braking test results. Similar figures were found in tests by both local (such as Consumer) and overseas (such as Tire Rack) testing. The Eco tyres are comparable to (and in some cases - like the Ecopia - better than) standard non-performance tyres.


dry performance means squat to me, it's the wet performance that is important. to me. (boy)racing car, yes both, but they have 2 different tyres for 2 different scenarios. but the most likely time to have an accident is when it's "slippy" (can anyone tell me who says "slippy" instead of slippery lol)



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  #1405601 14-Oct-2015 11:47
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joker97:
Inphinity:
mdooher: 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm very suspicious that in the marketing you never see the braking ability tested side by side on a dry track.


See the figures I posted in my response above, of the Ecopia vs the RE003s - that's dry braking test results. Similar figures were found in tests by both local (such as Consumer) and overseas (such as Tire Rack) testing. The Eco tyres are comparable to (and in some cases - like the Ecopia - better than) standard non-performance tyres.


dry performance means squat to me, it's the wet performance that is important. to me.


Funny, I'm completely the other way. I drive like a nanna in the wet but in the dry I need all the friction I can get





Matthew


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  #1405602 14-Oct-2015 11:48
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mdooher:
joker97:
Inphinity:
mdooher: 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm very suspicious that in the marketing you never see the braking ability tested side by side on a dry track.


See the figures I posted in my response above, of the Ecopia vs the RE003s - that's dry braking test results. Similar figures were found in tests by both local (such as Consumer) and overseas (such as Tire Rack) testing. The Eco tyres are comparable to (and in some cases - like the Ecopia - better than) standard non-performance tyres.


dry performance means squat to me, it's the wet performance that is important. to me.


Funny, I'm completely the other way. I drive like a nanna in the wet but in the dry I need all the friction I can get



Yes I have adjusted ... sorry I don't imply those needing ultra dry performance are racers ;p



mdooher
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  #1405605 14-Oct-2015 11:51
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joker97:
mdooher:
joker97:
Inphinity:
mdooher: 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm very suspicious that in the marketing you never see the braking ability tested side by side on a dry track.


See the figures I posted in my response above, of the Ecopia vs the RE003s - that's dry braking test results. Similar figures were found in tests by both local (such as Consumer) and overseas (such as Tire Rack) testing. The Eco tyres are comparable to (and in some cases - like the Ecopia - better than) standard non-performance tyres.


dry performance means squat to me, it's the wet performance that is important. to me.


Funny, I'm completely the other way. I drive like a nanna in the wet but in the dry I need all the friction I can get



Yes I have adjusted ... sorry I don't imply those needing ultra dry performance are racers ;p


but you are only 1 minute away from Three Mile Hill... mind you at the moment the surface is basically missing...damn the DCC and their substandard road repairs




Matthew


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  #1405606 14-Oct-2015 11:52
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mdooher:
joker97:
mdooher:
joker97:
Inphinity:
mdooher: 

Maybe I'm missing something, but I'm very suspicious that in the marketing you never see the braking ability tested side by side on a dry track.


See the figures I posted in my response above, of the Ecopia vs the RE003s - that's dry braking test results. Similar figures were found in tests by both local (such as Consumer) and overseas (such as Tire Rack) testing. The Eco tyres are comparable to (and in some cases - like the Ecopia - better than) standard non-performance tyres.


dry performance means squat to me, it's the wet performance that is important. to me.


Funny, I'm completely the other way. I drive like a nanna in the wet but in the dry I need all the friction I can get



Yes I have adjusted ... sorry I don't imply those needing ultra dry performance are racers ;p


but you are only 1 minute away from Three Mile Hill... mind you at the moment the surface is basically missing...damn the DCC and their substandard road repairs


[edited quote]

Let me expand - I think dry performance is pretty close between tyres at under 120kph (I could be wrong). Hence to me the wet separates the real deals from the pretenders.

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  #1405614 14-Oct-2015 12:12
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joker97:

Let me expand - I think dry performance is pretty close between tyres at under 120kph (I could be wrong). Hence to me the wet separates the real deals from the pretenders.


There is a huge gap in braking distance even in the dry between cheap/eco tyres and good performance tyres. The gap between Eco and budget tyres, though, is a different story - a good Eco is often better.

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  #1405637 14-Oct-2015 12:41
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My Mazda3 came with Toyo Nano Energy3 tires from the factory.
Looking up their website, they are 5/5 for fuel efficiency and 4/5 for wet grip

Having not had anything else on the car, I have no idea what another type of tire may offer (or reduce)

 
 
 

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  #1405650 14-Oct-2015 13:05
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On two smaller vehicles we have stopped using tires with lower rolling resistance and replaced them with cheaper tires. On one of them we had initially replaced the previous tires with Ecopias. I liked them but didn't think they were worth the additional cost. I am much less certain about that now we've used cheaper tires.

The cheaper tires have given us a worse ride and more road noise. This year, we put cheaper tires on our Suzuki Swift, and our average km/l has dropped from 15.3-15.8km/l to an average of 13.5km/l. While there may be other factors involved such as engine tuning or the proportion of highway driving, I attribute most of the difference to the tires. At the same time, I have been driving a little more aggressively but that hasn't been sufficient to close the gap which seems to be about 2 km/l over 25-30,000 km which is what I got before having to replace any of them. That is a saving of $607 ( = 30,000 * (1/13.8-1/15.8) * $2/litre ) or $500 if I only got 25,000km from them. If the km/l difference is only 1.5km/l then I wouldn't break even but I would have had a better ride.

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  #1405658 14-Oct-2015 13:24
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Anyone like to comment on the road noise of the Eco tyres?




You're not on Atlantis anymore, Duncan Idaho.

  #1405659 14-Oct-2015 13:26
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MadEngineer: Anyone like to comment on the road noise of the Eco tyres?


i find them very good, not very noisy at all

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  #1405676 14-Oct-2015 13:51
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Using EECAs own figures (https://www.energywise.govt.nz/energy-labels/energywise-approved-tyres/ accessed 14/10/15): -

Energy-wise tyres cost $25 more per tyre ($100 per set) and save $500 of fuel over 40,000km (2.85 years motoring for average kiwi car)

A net total saving of ($500 -$100)/40,000km =  $0.01/km saved compared to standard budget tyre i.e. an inconsequential saving.

I also note that the math works out suspiciously neatly.

As an alternate - Tyre pressure monitoring systems can be retrofitted to almost any car tyre, last many sets of tyres and if used correctly they save fuel, while improving safety (correct pressure and early warning of leaks).  To me they are a better choice.







Mike


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  #1405686 14-Oct-2015 14:05
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MikeAqua: Using EECAs own figures (https://www.energywise.govt.nz/energy-labels/energywise-approved-tyres/ accessed 14/10/15): -

Energy-wise tyres cost $25 more per tyre ($100 per set) and save $500 of fuel over 40,000km (2.85 years motoring for average kiwi car)

A net total saving of ($500 -$100)/40,000km =  $0.01/km saved compared to standard budget tyre i.e. an inconsequential saving.

I also note that the math works out suspiciously neatly.

As an alternate - Tyre pressure monitoring systems can be retrofitted to almost any car tyre, last many sets of tyres and if used correctly they save fuel, while improving safety (correct pressure and early warning of leaks).  To me they are a better choice.





I didn't know you could buy these off the shelf, how neat!
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/how-to/Outside-the-Car/Steelmate-Tyre-Pressure-Monitoring-System.aspx?id=192

As you say, spending $170 dollars on this will work on all tyres, and having the tyres always at the correct pressure will give the best results.  And as a bonus, you can even see th etyre pressure very as you drive.

Under inflated eco tyres will probably cost more than properly inflated "standard" tyres.




Try my latest project, a Cisco type 5 enable secret password cracker written in javascript!

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  #1405716 14-Oct-2015 14:59
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pdath:
MikeAqua: ....

As an alternate - Tyre pressure monitoring systems can be retrofitted to almost any car tyre, last many sets of tyres and if used correctly they save fuel, while improving safety (correct pressure and early warning of leaks).  To me they are a better choice.



I didn't know you could buy these off the shelf, how neat!
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/how-to/Outside-the-Car/Steelmate-Tyre-Pressure-Monitoring-System.aspx?id=192

As you say, spending $170 dollars on this will work on all tyres, and having the tyres always at the correct pressure will give the best results.  And as a bonus, you can even see th etyre pressure very as you drive.

Under inflated eco tyres will probably cost more than properly inflated "standard" tyres.


And you can get systems that work with your phone or android head unit too. 




Mike


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  #1405727 14-Oct-2015 15:01
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And you can get systems that work with your phone or android head unit too. 


Can you tell me the brand name of some of these systems?  I think I'll look into it further.




Try my latest project, a Cisco type 5 enable secret password cracker written in javascript!

1eStar
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  #1405740 14-Oct-2015 15:15
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Rolling resistance has no connection with traction. The rolling resistance is to do with sidewall deformation, tyre construction etc. which dictates how much energy is used to roll the tyre along a road loaded. Traction or adhesion is related to the tread compound and pattern. You could have a tyre with low rolling resistance, high traction/grip but likely won't last long (poor treadwear). Or compromise comfort/noise etc.

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