EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) for Home Use

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cthombor

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#3476812 1-Apr-2026 18:24

RunningMan:

cthombor:[snip]t the plug (which will be either Type 1 J1772 or Type 2 CCS2)

Type 2 perhaps, but not CCS2. CCS is combined charging system and includes (combines) the DC pins as well. The car may have a CCS2 socket, but the EVSE will have a Type 2 connector.

Thanks for the correction. Careless of me!

My only excuse is that I'm a type-1 guy, born in the USA -- whose SAE shamelessly adopted J1772 for its AC-charging standard, and then Tesla's NACS for DC charging. Those dastardly Europeans can keep pushing their IEC standards, America is becoming GREAT AGAIN (by putting up trade barriers, and by continuing to do whatever is necessary to keep world oil prices above the USA's relatively high $60/bbl production costs -- so that it can remain the world's largest exporter of oil! Borrowing a motto from South Africa's apartheid days: "Cry my beloved country"!)

RunningMan

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#3476868 1-Apr-2026 19:41

cthombor:[snip] I'd be curious to know if there's much difference between a 10-hour session at 10A than one at 8A. On a stinking hot day, it may take only an hour to get the plug warm enough for the throttling to begin. On a cold day, it will take longer and who knows may never occur -- if you have a high-quality plug & socket that are both in good nick.

Power increases as the square of current, so going from 8 to 10 amps, the 25% in current is a 56% increase in power dissipated in whatever resistance is in the plug/socket combo. Enough to be quite significant.

richms

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#3476874 1-Apr-2026 20:11

I would expect no derating to happen at only 40c. I have had it slow when the car plug end was getting too hot, and it was on a scorcher of a day and it was too hot to hold comfortably on the outside of it from the sunlight, the power made heat on the inside would have had nowhere to go because the case was so hot.

The 15A one dropping back was just the crap extension cord I was using. The other end of it into whatever 15A outlet was found in the van to make my welder able to plug in was not any warmer than the 10A tesla one gets. Pins were comfortable to touch, no heating on the switch mech on the outlet at all. I cant really do 15A in the garage as that has only a 20A in the house and its wedged in between 2 other constant use breakers (the HWC and one that runs the shed) and it will trip a little premeturely since I have had the power monitor on the garage sub panel sitting on 18-19 for a while before a trip. Everything is jammed into the inside panel tighter than it should be due to lots of old crap wiring for an old spa pool that had its own meter in the past, so upgrading it all is going to happen when I have the cash to go 3 phase if staying at this place.

Richard rich.ms

cthombor

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#3476876 1-Apr-2026 20:14

RunningMan:

cthombor:[snip] I'd be curious to know if there's much difference between a 10-hour session at 10A than one at 8A. On a stinking hot day, it may take only an hour to get the plug warm enough for the throttling to begin. On a cold day, it will take longer and who knows may never occur -- if you have a high-quality plug & socket that are both in good nick.

Power increases as the square of current, so going from 8 to 10 amps, the 25% in current is a 56% increase in power dissipated in whatever resistance is in the plug/socket combo. Enough to be quite significant.

But... still not a worry if the rate of heat dissipation from the plug is greater than its rate of "Joule heating". The rate of dissipation is very very roughly linear in the temperature differential to the ambient, once the plug & socket & the nearby cabling get close to a thermal equilibrium. BTW: I have swotted up recently on thermal modelling, and have published a reasonably-accurate and pretty simple thermal model of my e-NV200 when (for a few weeks) its A/C unit was degassed to allow the installation of VIVNE aftermarket 50kWh modules. When I get round-to-it I'll be trying to find a factor or two (e.g. LeafSpy's estimated a/c power) that'll be predictive of how rapidly the pack heat will be dissipated through the wee radiator which (while driving) is used only for A/C in the cabin. Watch this space: https://cthombor.wordpress.com/2026/03/16/50kwh-upgrade-to-my-24kwh-2014-nissan-e-nv200-part-2-thermal-performance-without-a-c/

cthombor

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#3476880 1-Apr-2026 20:30

richms:

I would expect no derating to happen at only 40c. I have had it slow when the car plug end was getting too hot, and it was on a scorcher of a day and it was too hot to hold comfortably on the outside of it from the sunlight, the power made heat on the inside would have had nowhere to go because the case was so hot.

The 15A one dropping back was just the crap extension cord I was using. The other end of it into whatever 15A outlet was found in the van to make my welder able to plug in was not any warmer than the 10A tesla one gets. Pins were comfortable to touch, no heating on the switch mech on the outlet at all. I cant really do 15A in the garage as that has only a 20A in the house and its wedged in between 2 other constant use breakers (the HWC and one that runs the shed) and it will trip a little premeturely since I have had the power monitor on the garage sub panel sitting on 18-19 for a while before a trip. Everything is jammed into the inside panel tighter than it should be due to lots of old crap wiring for an old spa pool that had its own meter in the past, so upgrading it all is going to happen when I have the cash to go 3 phase if staying at this place.

Interesting. OK so when I get round-to-it (maybe never, in other words) I'll tape a thermosensor onto the 10A plug that's inserted into a high-spec 15A socket in my e-NV200 e-motorhome. It gets somewhat warm (maybe in the low 30s) when I'm charging at 6A. The Victron Multiplus inverter in my van should (barely) be able to handle a 15A charging session, and will sustain it for a couple of hours from the 700 Ah ("9.24kWh") pack. If that setup doesn't either reach thermal equilibrium or go into a throttled mode, I could park up my van near my unit and run a lead out to my van from my house. Wouldn't dare run that lead at 10A for a long period unmonitored, but even an 8A feed would greatly reduce the drain on my leisure pack and also greatly reduce the heat thrown off inside the van by the inverter. Could be interesting... but only vaguely so... I'm happy to leave the IC-CPD on its 6A setting even though the onboard charger of my e-NV200 is only about 85% efficient at such a slow rate, because I'm not in a hurry and it's easier than fussing with its 6A/8A/10A setting whenever I'm charging the van from my AC180P "portable jerry can of lithium" (1.44kWh, 18kg). ;-)

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