justification for getting a diesel for a private car

Forums › Transport (cars, bikes and boats) › justification for getting a diesel for a private car

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NzBeagle

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#1675554 22-Nov-2016 15:48

sudo:

I'm not specifically against Turbos, but I'd prefer a motor with less extras as in the long run there typically is less maintenance.

if you look at long term maintenance like a normal distribution (bell) curve, the people with performance tuned motors are typically the outliers who pay more than someone with a plain motor (and would probably see more so on the other end of the curve)

There are always exceptions, but overall the more complicated/kitted out the engine, the more change something will go wrong with it and accumulated service costs will be higher.

It's just another factor in the TCO calculator (as well as resale value after X years ... I see how much a 10 year old version of the car sells for and subtract that from the purchase value)

I see your point, but there's a difference between the GT Legacy Turbo (Petrol) and the Legacy (Diesel) in how they're strung, and one is also likely to experience more aftermarket tuning, again degrading the 'reliability'. Plenty of diesels run high km's with turbos, trucks and vans especially will get into the millions, so I wouldn't see it as a downside.

MikeAqua

7779 posts

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#1675562 22-Nov-2016 16:15

sudo:

I'm not specifically against Turbos, but I'd prefer a motor with less extras as in the long run there typically is less maintenance.

if you look at long term maintenance like a normal distribution (bell) curve, the people with performance tuned motors are typically the outliers who pay more than someone with a plain motor (and would probably see more so on the other end of the curve)

There are always exceptions, but overall the more complicated/kitted out the engine, the more change something will go wrong with it and accumulated service costs will be higher.

It's just another factor in the TCO calculator (as well as resale value after X years ... I see how much a 10 year old version of the car sells for and subtract that from the purchase value)

Pretty much every modern engine has all sorts of bolted on peripheral trickery. There is no escaping complexity in an anywhere-near-new vehicle.

If you want simple you need to go old school.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1157680118.htm

Mike

djtOtago

1149 posts

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#1675573 22-Nov-2016 16:46

MikeAqua:

sudo:

I'm not specifically against Turbos, but I'd prefer a motor with less extras as in the long run there typically is less maintenance.

if you look at long term maintenance like a normal distribution (bell) curve, the people with performance tuned motors are typically the outliers who pay more than someone with a plain motor (and would probably see more so on the other end of the curve)

There are always exceptions, but overall the more complicated/kitted out the engine, the more change something will go wrong with it and accumulated service costs will be higher.

It's just another factor in the TCO calculator (as well as resale value after X years ... I see how much a 10 year old version of the car sells for and subtract that from the purchase value)

Pretty much every modern engine has all sorts of bolted on peripheral trickery. There is no escaping complexity in an anywhere-near-new vehicle.

If you want simple you need to go old school.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1157680118.htm

And just to high light the difference between old school and modern school.

Its 4200cc non turbo diesel engine produces 85kW and 264Nm torque (Nissan TR42 Non turbo engine)

My 1600cc turbo diesel 94kW and 260Nm torque (Hyundai 1.6 CRDi U2 engine)

alasta

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#1675634 22-Nov-2016 20:20

I have never noticed the particulate burnoff in my Mazda3, but maybe that's just because it hardly ever gets used around town.

Scott3

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#1675696 22-Nov-2016 21:35

This discussion around diesel turbo's is a bit weird.

Naturally aspirated (Non-Turbo) diesels are pretty much extinct in first world cars, and for good reason. The emissions are worse, and the power output from reasonable size and weight engine to fit a car/van/smaller SUV is far below the expectations of first world drivers.

Naturally aspirated vehicle are still available in third world countries, although even there they are becoming more rare. They are cheaper & simpler than turbo engines and low performance is generally accepted in those markets. Vehicles typically travel slower due to poor road conditions, traffic congestion & additional road hazards. Little point paying extra for a powerful car (especially when you are going have your driver drive it), because when you reach a steep hill there is typically a string of traffic that is doing 25kmph anyway.

Natural aspirated diesel's are still readily available for marine and other non road based applications (i.e. fire pumps) in the first world as weight can be less of an issue.

I would have though turbos are one of the more reliable components on a car (other a few vehicles with know issues such old hilux surfs & hyundai H1's) . I would have thought things like high pressure common rail fuel pumps, particulate filters, engine sensors, auto gearboxes etc would have been more common failure points.

jonathan18

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#1675798 23-Nov-2016 08:32

alasta:

I have never noticed the particulate burnoff in my Mazda3, but maybe that's just because it hardly ever gets used around town.

@alasta: I'm sure it'll still need do this, only perhaps less frequently, and you just may not have been aware of what to look for. The three tell-tale signs of it happening are:

* the green i-Stop light turns off (if you turn it on manually at this point it'll be orange)

* instantaneous fuel consumption reading skyrockets to something not far off double usual figures (eg, about 9l/100km on the open road)

* a strong burning smell coming from the exhaust

For a while I didn't know what the @#$@# was happening, and thought there was something wrong with my car! The dealer wasn't much help either. I believe there needs to be more clear instruction to car owners (via dealers and the car manual) as to what to expect and also what to do. Plus I believe there ought to be the ability to be given a warning the burn-off is due but to be able to delay this for a certain distance, as there seems no point in the car attempting to burn it off if speed is never going to exceed 50km!

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