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116 posts

Master Geek

# 30345 5-Feb-2009 09:37
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First off, I've read other posts related to this, but can't quite seem to find a definite answer to my question.

I've got a roughly 15m run (maybe a bit less) of component cable from my receiver to projector, and am now thinking of adding an HDMI run to this.  Due to the distance, I'm steering clear of a single bulky HDMI cable, as I wouldn't be able to feed or bend it through the walls, so am looking at doing HDMI over Cat5/6 instead.

What's confusing me though, is that of the various baluns that seem to be available, there are some that state they are passive only (e.g. this one), and others that are active powered ones (e.g. this one).  I've enquired with Ascent who also list the same powered one, and they have advised that the powered one requires power at both ends, however the descrption on the PBTech website supplied says "Power source: DC 5V (does not need generally)".  Yet another one from Jaycar (here), says "Power sender end".

The RapalloAV Grandbeing ones are tempting because of their compact size, but as someone else mentioned on another post, they might put a bit of strain on the HDMI connector, but that might also just be dependent on how the Cat5/6 cables come out of it, I guess.  Another big plus though, is that you don't need additional HDMI cables.

What I'm wondering though is whether or not the powered ones, will actually still work, without the power connected (so it becomes a passive balun), or perhaps with the power only in the sender end instead of both sender and receiver ends?  At what distance when using baluns is additional power essential?

Since my projector's ceiling mounted, I don't really want to have a power adapter block hanging from the ceiling mounted socket (which would have to be upgraded from the current single to a double one, anyway).  A standard plug is one thing, but the extra weight of an adapter, especially if it's a big one, might make the thing fall out?!

HDMI-Cat5/6 wall plates that others have used aren't really an option for me, due to where the cables are coming through the wall, and the distance to where the projector is.

Finally, is it worth keeping the component cable connected too, as an alternative signal option, or will the HDMI suffice (my receiver (Denon AVR-2308) can convert all other video formats to HDMI)?  Have others ever found a case when a signal won't go over HDMI, and have had to use component instead?

Sorry for the long post, but hopefully it helps explain my situation and thoughts clearly!  All advice appreciated.



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3170 posts

Uber Geek


  # 194217 5-Feb-2009 10:39
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I'm going to be installing one the Jaycar ones this weekend so will let you know how that goes.
The power supply is only required at the sender which is good as it means that you don't need an extra power supply behind the TV.
I have one of the PBtech ones here myself and they are quite big and the power supply is at the receiving end so is a bit of a pain having it behind the TV.  Other than that it works well.

3170 posts

Uber Geek


  # 194547 6-Feb-2009 22:45
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Well I have installed the HDMI extender tonight. (After putting the TV on the wall and getting the Freeview going so sister could watch Shortland Street!)
They work great! (These are the small ones from Jaycar with the power supply at the sender)
I have an HDMI cable from the back of the computer into the sender then two CAT5e patch cables to the two RJ45 wall sockets.
From there it goes back to the patch panel where there are two CAT5e patch cables linking to two cables that run to the TV.
At the TV there are also two CAT5e cables from the wall plate to the receiver and then HDMI to the back of the TV.
In all there is probably about 30m of CAT5e cable between the sender and receiver.
Have the TV running at the same res as the monitor - 1440x900 - and the picture looks great.
It's not a 1080p TV so can't test that.


116 posts

Master Geek

  # 194570 7-Feb-2009 08:22
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Great to hear CYaBro!  Certainly makes the Jaycar ones tempting for my setup too, especially if they are that much smaller than the Unitek model ones, and only need power at the sender end.  It's good to see too that they work that well over your 30m distance, so my 15m one should be no issue at all.  Out of interest, as a test, have you tried it without the power connected?  I'm curious to know whether or not a signal still gets through.

Thanks for posting the feedback about your install.  I presume too that all the Cat5e cabling you've used is UTP, rather than STP?

151 posts

Master Geek

  # 195507 12-Feb-2009 12:54
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I am using these to send Sky HDi to another room via a  approx 25m cat5e cable and they work great.

These a much better quality than the Unitek ones.  I tried these and they were very unreliable so I took them back.

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