Has anyone tried one of the cheaper ones that says it needs 11-12.6v input in a car situation?

Im assuming that it is passing the "12v" input straight thru as the 12v rail, hence the tight requirements, but as the only things that need 12v on a PC these days are the onboard switchmode regulator for the CPU, im wondering how critical that rails accuracy is, since it will get regulated down to whatever the CPU needs, and everything else will be off the 5 or 3.3v which the pico PSU creates so should in theory be fine.

Just wondering if the machine would survive engine cranking without browning out, and not pop things when the alternator is at its max output on a cold day.

Otherwise the wide range ones are quite a bit more expensive than the $15 for the cheap ones.