Ge0rge: Yes, they will work well - particularly with the "push and hold" function for dimming.

Great stuff

Bewildered:

I do too...they work fine. Would suggest you don't connect the LED wires in bedrooms...they are crazy bright. In other parts of the house they are cool as they help guests find light switches....

 

I have some more Shelly units coming...hopefully this week and then I'll have done almost every light switch in the house...I have a pretty basic automation to dim the lights to a certain level depending on time of day (100% during the day, minimum at night, and a few steps in between) when the lights are triggered. This was so popular that everyone now wants all the lights to be smart. :-)

 

 

James Bond:

 

Good evening,

 

I have these switches in my house - would I be able to use them with this sytem?

 

Are you sure that you have momentary switches already? If you do, then it must already be going into something to allow the lights to be switched, otherwise, the lights would only be on while you held the button down.

If they do click on and off, they will still work but will not give as nice a experience as the momentary ones.

For the overly bright leds in bedrooms, I have found that lighting them using S1 or S2 means that the brightness is reduced (can't remember if switched to natural or switched to phase so try it). 

dolsen:

 

James Bond:

 

Good evening,

 

I have these switches in my house - would I be able to use them with this sytem?

 

 

 

 

Are you sure that you have momentary switches already? If you do, then it must already be going into something to allow the lights to be switched, otherwise, the lights would only be on while you held the button down.

 

If they do click on and off, they will still work but will not give as nice a experience as the momentary ones.

 

 

 

For the overly bright leds in bedrooms, I have found that lighting them using S1 or S2 means that the brightness is reduced (can't remember if switched to natural or switched to phase so try it). 

 

 

 

Good point, they are not the momentary version... I have the 681MT16 version. I have one momentary version - it is a PDL solid state dimmer. Looks identical however, from memory, sparkie said the LED can only be lit when it's on. I have all the others wired in as "on" all the time.

I could just replace them to a momentary version, from memory they are $12-15 each at the local supplier.

Unfortunately when we did the renos, I was unaware of the differences and the sparkie didn't point it out - not their fault however.

I just bought my Shellies from shelly.cloud (I also have their H&T units which work well). I got the momentary switches from Electrical Direct (https://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/product/2074-PDL-Momentary-Push-Button-Module-10Amp-24VDC-250VAC-White) - if you get a PDL module ejector (PDL600ME) you can easily pop out an existing module and snap in the new momentary switch - that way you can recycle your gang/face plates.  The momentary switch works fine without the switch's own LED wired in....

You will need to put the shelly switch mode into 'momentary' (obviously) - I'm using them with Shelly Dimmer 2 units with LED ceiling lights and they work well. The only issue I have is that the ripple control signals make my lights flicker when dimmed - this was the case already *before* the Shellies were installed. I don't want to pay $200+ per room to install filters so we just live with it...

Tip 1: You can change the dimming speed in the shelly via the web interface to speed up / slow down the dimming rate. In some places you might want it slow for fine control (e.g. lounge), in others you want it fast (e.g. kitchen)

Tip 2: After running the calibration process on the Shelly you can set a night mode brightness so the lights come up only to a certain level (e.g. 10%) if turned on during the night time window (e.g. 22:00 to 06:00)

I also use some shelly 2.5s to control my bathroom extractor fan (you can set an off timer so fan runs for X minutes after being turned off) and my towel rail so it runs to a schedule that makes sense as opposed to random 4 hour on / 8 hour off periods. So far I've been very impressed with them....long may that continue because I have a lot of them now. 

:-)

I only have Shelly 1 units to control my garage door (because they have have a dry contact relay). For everything else I have 1PM and above. I use a Lenovo smart plug (integrated in Home Assistant with LocalTuya), the Shelly H&T, and Node Red to dynmically control the temperature in my study....it works really well. 

What do you buy from Showtechnix? I see a NZ-based showtechnix but can't see anything there that fits the bill?

Never mind...found it here: https://www.showtechnix.co.nz/product-category/power/electrical/

Would have been good to know about that like 5 years ago....  ;-)

can Shelly 1PM be used on HWC to control the time that it goes on?

attewell:

can Shelly 1PM be used on HWC to control the time that it goes on?

Probably a dumb question...do the PDL momentary switches work as a manual dimmer before the shelly unit is hooked up?

alsta:

 

Probably a dumb question...do the PDL momentary switches work as a manual dimmer before the shelly unit is hooked up?

 

No, the switches are just switches.

Ge0rge:

attewell:

 

can Shelly 1PM be used on HWC to control the time that it goes on?

 

Mine does exactly this.

Do you have a photo? did you wire yourself or sparky?

Also.. do you use API to control on/off based on power price?

I'm not brave enough to hook up my HWC to a Shelly.....the current draw can be very high and if it blows then I have no hot water until I bypass it...and you only find out about it when the water is already cold. Instead I've got a rotary dial timer and relay in my switch board...not nearly as elegant as a Shelly but more reliable (I think) and easier to get to if I need to override the time. I would have preferred a digital HA-integrated relay but given the primary purpose is to avoid time-of-use surcharges it works well enough. I'm getting my HWC power usage from a Shelly 3EM....so I do still get a live feed on consumption....and I have an automation to alert me if there is power consumption during peak rate hours so I'll be able to detect if the timer is off....