Water pump wont kick in

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runnerx

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Wannabe Geek

#226258 28-Dec-2017 16:59

hiya we have a Wallace Maxipump 3000 to pump water from our 24k ltr storage tank to our house. The tank is feed by a community bore.

Of late we are having issues with the pump in which it doesn't kick in straight away once a tap is turned on. it seems quite random with the pump starting straight away (most of the time) to a few seconds, to an hour. The latter being more common with a daily occurence. I've found that flipping the circuit breaker seems to kick it back into life.

Does anyone know what can cause this and how to fix it ?. It quite often happens first thing in the morning (when we want a shower go figure!!)

gregmcc

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#1926231 28-Dec-2017 17:24

Could be a number of things, faulty start capacitor on motor, partially blocked orifice on pressure switch (quite common). the air bladder in the pressure tank could be ruptured.

My first bet would be the pressure switch, either faulty or blocked, you will need an electrician and it will need to be replaced with one in the correct pressure range for the system you have.

runnerx

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Wannabe Geek

#1926454 29-Dec-2017 08:08

excellent thanks Greg, I'll work through those suggestions starting with the pressure switch

Aredwood

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#1926489 29-Dec-2017 10:25

What happens when you turn a tap on? Pump doesn't make any sounds / motor hums or buzzes but doesn't turn / motor spins as normal but water doesn't get pumped.

If you are going to get a sparky out to replace a pressure switch. Get him to install a better controller instead. Something like http://www.pumpsonline.co.nz/accessories/pump-controllers/hiflo-pc10-electronic-pump-controller.html
It has dry run protection and it keeps the motor running at low flow rates. No more on off on off that you get with pressure switches.

It might not be an electrical issue. The pump might be loosing prime. Which is a plumbing issue.

runnerx

7 posts

Wannabe Geek

#1926634 29-Dec-2017 18:34

thanks. the motor doesn't come on at all. We had a new controller installed a few months ago as our tenants plumber thought it might have been that. Unfortunately it didn't make any difference

Aredwood

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#1928413 3-Jan-2018 11:45

Can you post A picture of your controller? As it sounds like your controller is more than just a simple pressure switch, since turning the power on and off wouldn't make any difference to a pressure switch.

runnerx

7 posts

Wannabe Geek

#1928870 4-Jan-2018 09:27

Hi there

the pump is a Wallace Maxipump 3000 - www.wallacepumps.co.nz/household-water-supply.html#maxipump

with a brand new Easypress I Predrollo controller - www.pedrollo.com/en/easypress-electronic-pump-controllers/181

cheers

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larknz

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#1928978 4-Jan-2018 12:31

Is there air in the internal bladder. If there is none the motor could be continuously starting and stopping which could result in the motor going out on thermal overload. The motor then won't restart until it has cooled down.

Aredwood

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#1929041 4-Jan-2018 13:40

runnerx:
Hi there

the pump is a Wallace Maxipump 3000 - www.wallacepumps.co.nz/household-water-supply.html#maxipump

with a brand new Easypress I Predrollo controller - www.pedrollo.com/en/easypress-electronic-pump-controllers/181

cheers

What is the height difference between the pump and your taps? Also the datasheet on that website for the controller says that it has a feature for limiting motor starts if there is water leakage. Maybe that feature is activating.

Does the controller have a fault indication light?

runnerx

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Wannabe Geek

#1929576 5-Jan-2018 08:30

thanks Aredwood I will check it out

larknz

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#1929578 5-Jan-2018 08:38

You should also check the internal bladder, because if there is no air in it the pump will keep starting and stopping

Aredwood

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#1931036 5-Jan-2018 20:35

larknz: You should also check the internal bladder, because if there is no air in it the pump will keep starting and stopping

There probably isn't any bladder installed. The controllers of the type linked to by the OP don't even require one. The controller contains a flow sensor as well as a pressure sensor. At low flow rates, the motor keeps going even if the outlet pressure is higher than the cutout pressure.

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larknz

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#1931038 5-Jan-2018 20:40

It's been a while since I was involved in fault finding, so obviously things have changed.

runnerx

7 posts

Wannabe Geek

#1949214 31-Jan-2018 12:52

It ended up being the capacitor as suggested. I've replaced it and the pump has been working well ever since. Its even a lot quieter

thanks to all that contributed

Aredwood

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#1949735 31-Jan-2018 21:44

Interesting, as normally a failed capacitor causes the motor to hum/buzz as if it is jammed. Although they will then normally overheat really quickly, and then cycle on / off via the overheat cutout.

runnerx

7 posts

Wannabe Geek

#1951043 3-Feb-2018 10:03

you know your stuff. You are dead right, the pump was humming and has gone quiet since the new capacitor was put in. I thought the hum was normal for the operational of the pump and failed to mention it in my diagnosis

thanks again you've been a great help