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#270313 3-May-2020 21:34
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I am trying to replace the battery on a portable Amp/DAC and it has a battery labelled:

 

 

 

PL-M10 Li-Ion Polymer 4800mAH 3.7V

 

 

 

My Google Fu hasn't resulted in a suitable off the shelf replacement with those search terms.

 

Would any battery of that spec, with the correct connectors on it, suffice? The battery has a Red, Yellow, and Black cable and a white connector on it.

 

If I am trying to work out if the battery itself is dead, could I put a multi-meter on the PCB on the channels leading to those leads? Should that give me an indication that power is getting to the PCB, if it's plugged into the power source (USB in this instance)?

 

 

 

Any assistance gratefully accepted.


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  #2476075 3-May-2020 22:13
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Yes, put a DC voltmeter on the battery terminals with and without being plugged in the charger.

 

There'll be 2 pins for power and the other is usually for battery temperature.


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  #2476077 3-May-2020 22:41
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Is that in an iFi device? All I could find is a post from 2014 suggesting that battery replacement was only at an iFi service centre.
Edit: but it should continue go work if plugged into a usb power source.

It's likely that the specific spare won't be readily available but 4800mAh 3.7v is a common value. There probably is a battery for something else that has the same size.

 
 
 
 




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  #2476180 4-May-2020 10:47
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Bung: Is that in an iFi device? All I could find is a post from 2014 suggesting that battery replacement was only at an iFi service centre.
Edit: but it should continue go work if plugged into a usb power source.

It's likely that the specific spare won't be readily available but 4800mAh 3.7v is a common value. There probably is a battery for something else that has the same size.

 

Hi.

 

Yup, it's an IFI device.

 

Would a photo help?

 

I don't see any juice at those pins at all, with the USB Connected and the battery connected.


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  #2476281 4-May-2020 13:47
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I've seen a photo. I can't do much more than suggest you contact either a service place that does a lot of phone/tablet battery replacement or one of the NZ battery suppliers with dimensions of the battery and that it is 3 wire. Does it still work on usb power or does it need some battery power to do the power selection?

Edit Are the audio places that sold those any help (read $$$).

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  #2476283 4-May-2020 13:48
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networkn:

 

Bung: Is that in an iFi device? All I could find is a post from 2014 suggesting that battery replacement was only at an iFi service centre.
Edit: but it should continue go work if plugged into a usb power source.

It's likely that the specific spare won't be readily available but 4800mAh 3.7v is a common value. There probably is a battery for something else that has the same size.

 

Hi.

 

Yup, it's an IFI device.

 

Would a photo help?

 

I don't see any juice at those pins at all, with the USB Connected and the battery connected.

 

 

Have you confirmed your meter works, say on a AA cell?

 

Normally a Lion batt would not be discharged to 0 volts.




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  #2476291 4-May-2020 13:53
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elpenguino:

 

 

 

Have you confirmed your meter works, say on a AA cell?

 

Normally a Lion batt would not be discharged to 0 volts.

 

 

Hi.

 

Yeah the MM is good.

 

The battery sat around unused for 3+ years unfortunately.

 

 


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  #2476303 4-May-2020 14:02
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networkn:

 

The battery sat around unused for 3+ years unfortunately.

 

 

Oh dear. Age and heat are the things that kill Lions.

 

How much space do you have in the case? Lions are Lions so if it is a single cell you may be able to splice a replacement in.

 

That's going to be a faff compared to a drop-in substitute. 

 

Hopefully something's available.


 
 
 
 




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  #2476307 4-May-2020 14:05
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Not a lot of space in the case otherwise, unfortunately.

 

The third lead, yellow, if that's a temperature lead, will it matter what kind of sensor they use, ie will a replacement not from the manufacturer likely cause an issue?

 

My big concern is determining if the issue is the battery or that it's not being charged. With the unit turned on, and plugged into a USB charger, I would expect to see current on the PCB at the connector, correct? if not, then it's more likely the issue is not the battery or not ONLY the battery?

 

I think I'll post a photo tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 


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  #2476312 4-May-2020 14:14
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networkn:

 

Not a lot of space in the case otherwise, unfortunately.

 

The third lead, yellow, if that's a temperature lead, will it matter what kind of sensor they use, ie will a replacement not from the manufacturer likely cause an issue?

 

My big concern is determining if the issue is the battery or that it's not being charged. With the unit turned on, and plugged into a USB charger, I would expect to see current on the PCB at the connector, correct? if not, then it's more likely the issue is not the battery or not ONLY the battery?

 

I think I'll post a photo tonight.

 

 

It's reasonable to expect differences between battery temperature sensors - OTOH many systems probably use the same low cost technology. In short, can't say either way.

 

Lions are best coupled with a battery management system. Lions are never over-discharged to 0 volts.

 

If there is a BMS and it detects there is a battery fault it may switch off charging current to prevent problems ( fires! ).

 

This might be why you're measuring 0 volts, plugged into charger or not. If you start measuring at the USB socket you should be able to follow the power to the BMS, if present.


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  #2476315 4-May-2020 14:18
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Is this your one? https://www.head-fi.org/threads/ifi-idsd-micro-dsd512-pcm768-dac-and-headphone-amp-impressions-reviews-and-comments.728236/page-392

You may be able to isolate the internal view. In the blurb it talks about if turned on before plugging in to usb it continues to run purely on battery. You have to connect before turning on to run in float mode. I don't know if that somehow is affecting what you see on battery terminals.

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  #2476317 4-May-2020 14:18
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If you know someone with a hobby charger they will usually recover a lipo that's gone to zero volts. It needs a very very low current until it's half full inorder not to make it puff and even then it still may.




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  #2476321 4-May-2020 14:21
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Bung: Is this your one? https://www.head-fi.org/threads/ifi-idsd-micro-dsd512-pcm768-dac-and-headphone-amp-impressions-reviews-and-comments.728236/page-392

You may be able to isolate the internal view. In the blurb it talks about if turned on before plugging in to usb it continues to run purely on battery. You have to connect before turning on to run in float mode. I don't know if that somehow is affecting what you see on battery terminals.

 

 

 

Thanks, yes, that is the correct unit.

 

 

 

I'll give it a go and see if turning it on before connecting the charger shows a different view of the current.

 

 




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  #2476323 4-May-2020 14:23
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richms: If you know someone with a hobby charger they will usually recover a lipo that's gone to zero volts. It needs a very very low current until it's half full inorder not to make it puff and even then it still may.

 

 

 

I have a couple of hobby chargers actually, I didn't think of that. I wonder if that connector is compatible with anything I already have, I don't think so though. The connector looks more like the one I see on Lipos for battery management.

 

They say dead batteries are a common issue, and it's a case of connecting and disconnecting the charger over a number of times for various periods of time, which hasn't worked for despite about 5 times of trying multiple times each.

 

 

 

 


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