Garage Floor Paint

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minimoke

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#167379 11-Mar-2015 21:39

So Ive decided to paint the garage floor to hide the spider web effect of epoxy filled cracks. Plan is to diamond grind the surface. But what do I paint it with. Ant recommendations? A Resenes product comes to mind - though just which one escapes me. Around 50sqm to be done in total

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#1256647 11-Mar-2015 21:42

I got a turps based one that seems to be polyurathane like from bunnings. Hopeless stuff. Even with the surface sanded and the first coat thinned down it still peels up. It also peels away from itself where it didnt join well between coats.

When the garage is cleared out and I have time to redo it I will be doing it with a 2 pack epoxy this time. And a darker colour than last time.

Richard rich.ms

robjg63

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#1256648 11-Mar-2015 21:46

http://www.garagecarpetpro.co.nz/

maybe

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Jase2985

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#1256663 11-Mar-2015 22:07

there is actually proper epoxy concrete paint you can buy

Mitre 10, bunnings etc all sell it, its not a cheap process though, double or triple the cost of painting a standard wall

scuwp

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#1256670 11-Mar-2015 22:12

It's been a while since I looked at this, but from recollection once the garage floor is prepared you had to acid-etch it before putting the special garage floor paint down (doesn't peal with the heat of car tyres).
If the floor isn't sealed underneath, you will also get moisture through that will also lift the paint. In that case yet another sealant layer is needed. IIRC the 2-pot epoxy paint was best.

We didn't bother as it was getting far to expensive. It is probably worth getting a pro in to do the job. Or just throw some carpet down.

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kiwitrc

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#1256753 12-Mar-2015 05:52

We did a hanger with Sikafloor. The stuff is bulletproof. Its expensive but you will only need to do it once. Had a roll of poloyprop rope catch fire and burn fiercely on it (long story) and it only left a slight brown stain. http://nzl.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a004/02a004sa01.html

lxsw20

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#1256783 12-Mar-2015 08:30

scuwp: It's been a while since I looked at this, but from recollection once the garage floor is prepared you had to acid-etch it before putting the special garage floor paint down (doesn't peal with the heat of car tyres).
If the floor isn't sealed underneath, you will also get moisture through that will also lift the paint. In that case yet another sealant layer is needed. IIRC the 2-pot epoxy paint was best.

We didn't bother as it was getting far to expensive. It is probably worth getting a pro in to do the job. Or just throw some carpet down.

Correct, you should use spirits of salts aka hydrochloric acid on the floor to etch before painting.

Fred99

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#1256787 12-Mar-2015 08:36

If the surface is being ground, then it shouldn't need to be acid etched. Either etching, grinding, or grit blasting removes laitance.
I'd be a bit concerned if the floor has been crack-repaired by Fletcher EQR - I've seen jobs where they only did a superficial chasing out of the cracks with a vee diamond cutting blade on an angle grinder, down only 10-15mm, then epoxy mortar filled.
Take care not to pour good money after bad. Sika products are excellent. But if the cost of grinding and application of a 2-pack epoxy coating system start getting up around the $100/m2 mark, that's about the cost of a new floor (excl. cost of removal of old, plus typically for a garage floor slab replacement they'd drill and embed reinforcing bar starters around the perimeter).

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minimoke

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#1256803 12-Mar-2015 08:51

Thanks Fred. Yes it is a fletcher repair. I don't know how far down they went but if it's like any of there other work they are keen to do a suprficiAl job at least cost. a grinder and vac will set me back about $300 so I need to cost the paint

Fred99

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#1256822 12-Mar-2015 09:10

minimoke: Thanks Fred. Yes it is a fletcher repair. I don't know how far down they went but if it's like any of there other work they are keen to do a suprficiAl job at least cost. a grinder and vac will set me back about $300 so I need to cost the paint

You might want to get a core cutting drill bit, drill down over one of the repaired cracks and take a look. If the core falls in half because they didn't fill the crack full-depth (~100mm), then it's going to crack open again in time adjacent to the repair with normal ground or thermal movement, let alone the possibility of another good shake. If it's a beautifully painted surface, then that might look worse than a new hairline crack in concrete.

So much for Fletcher EQR meeting EQC's statutory obligation (under the EQC Act) to meet the homeowner's private insurance policy T&C, most of which were along the lines of "as (good as) new".
How well the work was done seems to have depended on how willing the "builder" was to cut corners on the job, how aware the homeowner was of their rights, as well as the individual PMs employed by EQR.

FWIW, in some cases where EQR patched up garage floors, they also painted the floors.

minimoke

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#1256942 12-Mar-2015 11:22

Don't get me started on eqc /eqr. My house is finally getting fixed so my blood pressure has reduced marginally. There is something like 50 lineal metres of cracking repairs to the floor which was 2 years old before eq,s and now looks worse than patch work quilt. I can't face another battle with eqc (I still have at least 6 months more grief with them yet) so I'm going to do the floor and try charging costs back to them. To be fair I put tons of reo in the slab when the concrete was poured so most crackING was hairline - not enough to stick fingers in.

As an aside they like paint. They have tried painting overy cracks. So when the eqr guy comes along he says " I don't see any damage" so nothing more will be done. Dumb buggers don't know I have photos. And there's cracking already because foundation remedial weren't done. As for their engineers who recommend no remedials after taking no measurements or levels and their dodgy experts who write factually wrong reports to suit their pre determined positions...... damn, I said don't get me going!!!!!

Fred99

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#1257025 12-Mar-2015 12:20

Yes - I know well about EQR - having been very badly bitten by them in the early days. Fortunately by way of a builder working for them who was a good guy that I got on with - who wasn't happy about EQR "methods" and project management - he gave me documents which were not on our EQC file. I lodged a formal complaint with EQC, with about a dozen bullet points. EQC referred this back to the local EQR hub, who responded with a "mistruth" or partial truth about every single point. I knew they were going to do this - so for each bullet point I had a piece of paperwork, invoice etc - which proved without doubt that they were not being up-front. I emailed that all back to EQC Wgtn, and had a call within an hour or two, and a visit a few days later. During the 3 hour meeting on site, the visitor from EQC HO (very nice person BTW) sat at my table, head in hands, as I pulled out document after document proving that something very dodgy had gone on. End result was compensation, and a formal apology for the way we'd been treated. By this stage we were already "over cap", and in the hands of SR. Thanks to EQR series of blunders (and my consequent agitating, combined with my wish to carry out significant changes to "like for like" repair as variations), SR suggested early on that we cash settle the claim, and that I PM the repairs - which is what I've done. There was the normal allowance for PM included in the settlement. I employed subbies /LBP as required, drainlayer, scaffolder, builder (x2 - first one went into liquidation), concrete demolition, glazier, cladding contractor, designer, engineer, geotech etc. As "johnny on the spot", I had to deal with council building inspectors, engineering inspections etc (all passed first time). I did a lot of the work myself, some of it alongside tradies, restricted work "under supervision" of LBP. It all went very well. I'm almost finished, exterior complete , interior - I'm on the last room now, re-fixing plasterboard, fitting new plaster cornices, stopping, skimming, repainting. My life over the past 8 weeks has been "heat and dust". (and over the past 10 months now - a lot of hard work).

The quality of repairs carried out by EQR seems to have been a lottery. My FIL's house had under-cap repairs carried out by EQR. I'd met the appointed builder's PM on another building site where I spent an hour or two talking to her about the repairs they were doing to a house of similar age/construction method to ours, exchanging ideas. My FIL's garage floor was munted and was originally noted on SOW to be replaced. Subsequent "revised" SOW kept appearing, where the garage floor repair was either omitted completely, or revised to "grind and fill cracks". She stuck to her guns, and they replaced the entire garage floor. They did a stellar job on the other repairs. So there are some happy customers. But "85% happy" as claimed by EQC - I very much doubt it from what I've seen.

minimoke

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#1257042 12-Mar-2015 12:32

Fred99: ;But "85% happy" as claimed by EQC - I very much doubt it from what I've seen.

this is a prime example of their inability to measure and proof thry know nothing of decimal places. They meant 0.85%. I have not come across a single person happy with eqc .not a one! I'm sure they are out there but I reckon the statistical odds of meeting one are so great that if I do I'm off to the lotto shop as a guaranteed winner

minimoke

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#1257079 12-Mar-2015 13:06

richms: I got a turps based one that seems to be polyurathane like from bunnings. Hopeless stuff. Even with the surface sanded and the first coat thinned down it still peels up. It also peels away from itself where it didnt join well between coats.

When the garage is cleared out and I have time to redo it I will be doing it with a 2 pack epoxy this time. And a darker colour than last time.

is this the bondall product? I see it's at buntings and place makers for $135 for 4 l. There is also a dulux aquatread but this seems light weight

minimoke

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#1257084 12-Mar-2015 13:12

kiwitrc: We did a hanger with Sikafloor. The stuff is bulletproof. Its expensive but you will only need to do it once. Had a roll of poloyprop rope catch fire and burn fiercely on it (long story) and it only left a slight brown stain. http://nzl.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a004/02a004sa01.html

seems it's skilled applicator only. I'm after diy and can't find sika (2540?) at retail outlets

kiwitrc

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#1257177 12-Mar-2015 13:57

minimoke:
kiwitrc: We did a hanger with Sikafloor. The stuff is bulletproof. Its expensive but you will only need to do it once. Had a roll of poloyprop rope catch fire and burn fiercely on it (long story) and it only left a slight brown stain. http://nzl.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a004/02a004sa01.html
seems it's skilled applicator only. I'm after diy and can't find sika (2540?) at retail outlets

Good point, I got it from a mate who no longer does it, however he said he things sikafloor 2530w is one you can buy direct. Ring Sika NZ.

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